Adamw

Unfortunately at present there is no way to display/measure/log duty cycle with a general purpose channel. Ethanol sensors use 1ms pulse width to represent -40°C and 5ms PW = 125°C, so I dont think that is going to work for tire temp. I think it would really need some sort or external conditioning to convert it into analog voltage to be useable with Link.

For the triggerscope, did you click the capture button while the engine was turning? It looks like you may have clicked it before the engine was turning.

You can view it on the fuel tab of the runtimes screen (F12) or just like any other parameter you can add it to a gauge or time plot etc. Typically low speed is just to make it quieter at idle so set the low>med quite small, something like 5%. The Med>hi setting will depend how much headroom your system has but commonly this is around 10-15%.

The late Subaru 3 wire valves are not like the old school type that have one pin for open and one for close. The 3 wires are just 12v, gnd & signal. There will be 12v available there already from the old valve and you can use any one of the existing aux wires, just a ground will be needed.

Yeah, it definately seems like just a PID issue to me. Can you try lowering the proportional gain to 6.0 and do another log.

What problem do you have? What do you mean by "other makes and models"

Yes you have it correct - short Aux 2 to ground to activate launch control. It is a bit hard to explain but aux 2 is not connected directly to 12V, it is connected to 12V with a relatively weak resistor. This is known as a pull-up resistor. A pic below to show the basic principle. When the switch is open the 12V travels through the resistor into the microcontroller pin - so the microcontroller sees +12V. When you close the switch/button there is a direct path to ground so the 12V travels through the resistor, through the switch and straight to ground, so the micro sees 0V. The reason nothing "blows up" when shorted to ground is the resistor is quite high resistance so not much current is flowing, probably only ~2mA.

Do you have a log? If you are using fuel cut for the limiter, check that the injector duty cycle is not reaching over 100%. There was a bug in some earlier G4+ firmwares where fuel cut limiter would not work if injector DC was above 100%. Im not sure if this effected G4, 4.10.2 but it would be worth checking. Otherwise we need to see a log.

Your throttle position sensor is not working in the log so it is a bit hard to tell what is going on. Can you fix that and do another log.

Can you attach the actual .llg file - use googledrive/ovedrive/dropbox or similar if it is too big. It is your VVT target that is bouncing around, not the solenoid - this because you VVT target table will reference TP which is bouncing around. So VVT is doing exactly what it is being commanded to do. To me it looks like the E-throttle is bouncing around due to the PID being too aggressive and the control loop has become unstable. If you look in your log at the TP/Target error accumulator, you will probably see this counting up during this event as the throttle is not following target - once it gets to 100 the ECU will shut down the E-throttle relay - which is why you see low voltage and the aux 9/10 error.

Correct, only the G4+ ECU's got a built-in scope. Its a bit hard to tell from a screenshot, but RPM doesnt look bad in the logged values list below? The AEM EPM doesnt have a great reputation but it would also be worth swapping to the alternative edge as some devices have one edge that is more accurate than the other. For your T1 sensor you can check if it is working just by leaving it connected to the ECU then back probe the signal wire with a multimeter (use a paperclip or similar) and wave the sensor past a magnet.

It sounds like typcal innovate behaviour to me but a couple of suggestions. Check the Analog input error high/low settings, I would set them to low = 0.0 and high = 5.0 to prevent them from interfering. Then next time it does it have a look at the status LED on the LC2 if it is flashing red it is an error code.

If you set the DI to GP Speed with a calibration of 360 it will read in frequency and will be more available to add to controls such as tables and conditions etc (just units will say kmh rather than Hz).

Your crank sensor is wrong polarity, swap the +/- wires. Your dwell mode should be set to "ms" mode, duty cycle mode is for ignition modules that do their own dwell control or CDI systems.

If you are not confident with a soldering iron to to the above mod, the alternative option is a tacho booster or coil relay.

Ok, thanks for the file. I have been able to reproduce the same problem you see on the bench with your file. I will pass this on to the engineering team to take a look. わかりました、ファイルをありがとう。 私はあなたがあなたのファイルであなたがベンチで見るのと同じ問題を再現することができました。 見てみるために、これをエンジニアリングチームに渡します。

Yes, that should not happen, can you attach a copy of your .pclr file so I can do some testing? はい、できません。テストを実行できるように、.pclrファイルのコピーを添付できますか。

Your tacho is what is known as a "high level" tacho. Since it was originally driven directly from the ignition coil, it needs to see about a 40V spike to trigger, the Link aux outputs are only 12V so this is not enough to drive it. You will need a tacho booster, you can either buy a commercially available option such as this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/142171581596 or you can use an old relay coil to do a similar job. I suggest you use one of the ignition outputs on the expansion loom to drive the tacho booster as the normal aux outputs have a flyback diode connected internally which can work against you.

Engine needs to be running for the valve to work (otherwise people would get annoyed with the noise). If you want to do a test various positions with engine off you would set the aux output to GP PWM, give it a condition to activate it such as "RPM <1000", then put whatever DC you want in the GP PWM table.

It wont make any vacuum at all at idle and worse still at high RPM lift off conditions when antilag is active (say the end of a straight), it will have positive pressure and little engine braking effect. Typically you will need to convert to a pedal box or electric vacuum pump and vacuum reservoir.

Can you give us a pic of that, it doesnt sound like a good idea. You shared the log right, I have downloaded it. Nothing obvious jumps out at me except there appears to be a shit ton of fuel going in. Have you tried backing off the master fuel etc? You have 12% injector duty cycle at idle and the lambda is pegged full rich at 0.67.

The first two scope pics show the injector drives functioning correctly in test mode, what you see is short 2ms pulses to ground, repeating at 10Hz. The 3rd scope I dont know what that is meant to be showing. Your log shows very erratic RPM and the trigger error counter continuously counting up. So it appears to me you have a trigger problem, not an injector problem. Can you connect your scope to trigger 1 & 2 pins and do us a capture off the cam/crank signals.

Yes, the injector outputs will be pulled up to about 12V when off and ground when on. I suggest you remove an injector wire from the ECU completely then put your scope probe or test light directly on the ECU pin while using the injector test function, this will then eliminate any software settings and wiring effects. Also do us a short log of it cranking so we can see if there are any other clues.

It would have helped to know which model impreza we are talking about. Im assuming it's a V10 as that is the only one with an ANV5 connected to anything important. On the V10, ANV5 is the RH tumble generator valve position and could definitely affect the way it runs. If its running rich it suggests the valve is stuck closed.

Huh? What is the idea here? Storage costs money so we only give every user a small allowance. Use a file share website or online drive to share it. Most PC's have onedrive built-in now so I find that convieient, but anything like dropbox, google drive, icloud etc will allow you to share files.