Adamw

Yep most likely. So how is the MAP connected - does it go to some manifold with a vacuum hose to each throttle or is it just connected to a single cylinder?

You need to be logged in to be able to download anything. That doesnt sound right. You generally need a USB OTG adapter.

Trigger looks good now. In the log your MAP is very erratic, bouncing between about 57 & 80 at constant RPM. That suggests something is wrong there.

For anyone else looking for HKS VCam info - yes the G4+ can run this ok. Connect the cam position sensor to any DI 1-4, set as VVT cam position, LH Inlet. Connect the solenoid to any Aux 1-4, set as VVT solenoid LH Inlet, frequency 250Hz. Set VVT mode to Toyota 1JZ. Do a cam angle test (explained in help file) to get the correct offset for the digital input. VVT PID needs to be set to custom with P=5.0, I= 0.04, D=20.

The only "knock light" that we make is called the "Knocklink G4": http://dealers.linkecu.com/G4KNL Maybe you are confusing it with the KnockBlock G4+ which is an audio device. http://dealers.linkecu.com/G4PlusKnockBlock

Sorry, it is not clear what you want to do. If you want to use a tablet for a dash then all you need is the usb cable, no wiring needed. If you want to run a tacho from the ecu then you will need to connect it to an aux output or spare ignition output.

I would be suspicious of the sensor with that error. Error 24 means the pump current has gone outside of the range expected.

Scope looks ok. You might need to lower trigger 1 arming threshold a little as you only just have a little over 0.5V coming out of the crank sensor. Try something like below. Have you put a timing light on to check timing is in the ballpark?

Unfortunately we dont have this functionality to clip or export an llg file yet. I dont think 20Mb is too much of a problem for most people these days - many new smartphones can have near that file size in just one photo so I wouldnt be too concerned about sharing a file of that size.

I have stacked sensors on top of each other before with a single long bolt through the middle and it seems to work ok. It will be interesting to get your feedback how the knocklink works in this application. My normal advice to motorbike guys is "I suspect the clatter of the dog box and primary drive gears in the crankcase will cause false alarms".

Yes, your wiring is correct. However, some of those industrial SSR's are a bit slow and dont have flyback protection. Have a look if you can get the Hella one or a 15620NOS

12V would be my guess. Have a look at a factory wiring diagram.

Inj6 grounds pin 63 & 66 to power up the mpi relay and associated circuit. The high/low polarity settings on aux outputs is to invert the behaviour. Polarity low will output a ground when on. Polarity high will be grounded when off. On some auxes you will also have a highside/lowside drive setting, this is irrelevant on the VR4 ecu as it only has lowside drives fitted. If you have a spare injector or ignition drive to drive the relay then it will work without anything extra, just connect the relay coil parrallel to the tacho. If you only have an auxiliary output then you may find the flyback diode will prevent the relay from doing its job, you will have to use an extra transistor like the circuit you will find all over the net in this case.

The aux outputs are only capable of 2A current, you wont be able to connect a pump directly like your diagram, it would need a solid state relay in between for the PWM. For the other devices that are just on/off, if the current is over 2A then just a normal mechanical relay will do.

The non-vvt 1UZ uses a different trigger system to the vvti model. Set up your trigger as per the info in the help file. copy below.

Turn off gear shift control. One of our old supra base maps had it enabled.

You are correct, launch control would typically be what you use for drag racing "two step" functionality. If there is no cut being applied and the RPM hasnt reached the target then the only two things holding it back could be retard or the convertor. You can work out which is the problem by setting the retard to 0 then if it still doesnt reach the limiter with no retard then it can only be due to the converter. I dont see any problem with your DBW setup. The forum may accept it if you zip it up otherwise use a file sharing drive like dropbox, google drive or onedrive.

Why would you not have cold air if the clutch is engaged and the compressor is turning? That is all the ECU can do - switch the compressor on or off.

Look at the scale on your 5V time plot, I wouldnt call 0.01V variation "all over the place".

Injector 6 controls the main efi relay. This is done because the car has a stepper motor idle valve, so after you turn the ignition off, the ECU needs to stay alive for a short time to reset the stepper motor. Injector 6 is what keeps the main relay engaged. Unfortunately you cant use Inj 6 for anything else as it has an additional circuit connected to it internally to make the relay control properly.

A VR sensor is actually superior to a hall sensor in almost all aspects, the only real negative is a low voltage output on some engines that crank slow. It is more accurate from a timing perspective and far less suseptable to noise. Having said that either should work ok - just you are going backwards by changing to hall. As I mentioned earlier Im pretty sure the M52 has a funny frequency based cam sensor so that is probably what is causing the trigger error - not the crank sensor. Your ECU has a trigger scope built in so rather than change parts for no reason, it would be wiser to use the scope to see what is wrong. You can post the trigger scope capture here for advice. You already have ground and signal, you just need to run a new wire to supply power to the hall sensor. The power wire does not need to be shielded.

The cams look a bit odd to me how they "top out" at about 30/33deg, even though you are commanding 40deg - like they have hit the mechanical stops. The solenoid is commanding max 60%DC but it seems the cams cant move any further. Did you do a cam angle test to confirm the offsets? I thought the cams could move more like 60deg in these engines. Also, it doesnt look like it is having any effect but the gear shift control is turned on, so I would turn that off. The other thing I would try if it is a centrifugal supercharger is removing the belt. With no restriction, it may be trying to pump a huge air mass and burning lots of power.

The pinout in the manual is correct. Only Aux 1-8 are available on this ecu. What inputs and outputs a plug-in ECU will have available to the end user is governed by what the factory decided to connect to the pins. In fact aux 17-20 shouldnt even show on a plug-in ECU, that is a glitch in our latest software. Only the Thunder has Aux 17-20.

Your 5V is rock solid in both logs so I dont know what you are on about there. Everything else looks terrible though including RPM, it sure seems like a ground issue. The TPS dropping in and out would suggest you have a loose connection somewhere. Try setting up a big digital gauge on a spare PC Link page with just TP displayed. Then go and wiggle all the wires to see if TP jumps around on the screen. Can you try moving the MSD main ground off that post and ground it straight to the engine block.