Adamw

Note the above posts were relating to the S7/8 ECU so your S6 will be slightly different. You need the "ignition 4" output to drive the 4th coil for direct spark - however ign 4 in the stock configuration was used to drive the AC clutch. So you need to move the AC clutch wire off the ign 4 (pin 87), If you still have AC then I would suggest you move it to Inj 7 (pin 52) (which was originally the "Cat light" so not too important). Leave the cat light wire disconnected - tape up out of the way. Now you have ign 4 free to drive your coil.

Yes, it will run, but with a reluctor sensor, the ECU triggers at exactly the centre of each tooth. That means the long tooth is going to be seen by the ECU as offset by approx half the length difference. i.e. if the long tooth is 10 degrees longer than the others the ECU will see that tooth 5 deg earlier than expected. This will likely cause significant spark scatter at certain RPM's and poor dwell control.

I've seen something similar happen twice recently, they were both Windows 7 also. I logged in to the customer's laptops myself and couldnt get the Link driver to work correctly either. Here's how I fixed it: Go here and download the VCP driver that matches your OS - you will want the Win 7/8/8.1in this case. https://www.silabs.com/products/development-tools/software/usb-to-uart-bridge-vcp-drivers Once downloaded, unzip it and install it. Then you need to force the Link ECU to use that Silicon Labs driver in device manager. Here's a quick video showing how to do that: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPonzbvTGle78-UlcH Let me know if that works. We updated the USB driver that is included in our installer in the latest release and Im starting to wonder if it may not be compatible with Win 7. I will do a bit of testing next week.

Your cam sensor voltage only reaches about 1.3V, this is not enough. I suspect you haven't wired in the external pull-up resistor as per the help file? If not make sure you do the other cams connected to the DI's as well. Once these are done turn off the ECU pull-ups.

The fuel pump in the MX5 is not normally controlled by the ECU, it originally was switched on by the airflow meter. Have you actually wired it to the ECU? If it is controlled by the ECU the pump should stop as soon as the engine stops - regardless if it is due to a stall, stop switch, or hitting a wall at 100mph...

I wouldnt recommend racing it like that but it will be fine to start and drive gently to the tuner. Correct - but you will need to move the MAP sensor hose to the manifold side of the throttle body as per the note in the manual.

The Monsoon will certainly work happily with anything the G1 supported. I would assume it has the stock EJ 6 tooth crank and 7 tooth cam wheels.

Sorry, I dont understand what you are stating here. Does the GTT Neo also have a Link ECU but starts faster than yours?

Can you attach the map from the Xtreme so we can see what it has connected. The "A" loom is pretty much compatible but the Atom has much less inputs and outputs so we need to check if it will have enough to run the bare minimums you need.

Yes, just adjust the master fuel number up or down until it runs best. The 11ms that is in our GTT basemap I suspect means the car that basemap came from had quite large injectors. You may actually need to increase it.

Ok, the 30-4100 uses a different cal to the X-series so try setting up your AN Volt 4 like this: Also, make sure the calibration screw in the back of the gauge is set to P0 or P1 position.

If the factory sensor was giving an acceptable range of knock level numbers then there is probably no need to change to an aftermarket sensor. You are correct in that you will need to fully retune the knock control system if you change to a different type of sensor.

Yes, most common automotive EGT sensors (including the one Link sell) are "K type" thermocouples, the KMS EGT device is designed for K-type sensors.

Lambda definitely doesnot appear to be workng right. MAP/MGP appears ok - I assume you just live at high altitude ? as your BAP is 83Kpa. What do you have for a wideband and how is it connected?

So did it run through the TP calibration procedure ok? Can you do a short PC log with a few pedal presses and attach that and your tune file here. Make sure to set the "when stalled" setting to run throttle when you do the log.

You have it mostly right. 4 tooth sensor goes to trig 1, single tooth sensor goes to trig 2. Both are reluctors. Set trigger mode to "1 tooth per TDC" Set trig 2 sync mode to "cam pulse 1X" and sync position according to where the single tooth is located.

Set the short PW adder to zero, it is not normally needed for injectors smaller than about 1000cc. There are deadtimes in the help file for the common Deka 60lb, search "Siemens 107961" in the help file and you will find it.

Looking at the screenshot above it is most likely your BAP that is the problem, not the MAP. Unless you are on top of a mountain at 15000feet you should have more than 59KPa Baro. Can you attach your .pclr

No, it looks like dizzy pin 5 is the negative side of the coil. This should not need to be connected to ecu. If you dont see 12V there then I think that means you probably dont have +12V on dizzy pin 6 (the main coil supply)

Try the Mazda 3 and Suzuki Swift V2, both of these look quite similar. If either of those dont work you will have to use the user-defined mode.

Connect the tacho to any aux output and assign it to tacho. Tacho is set up on aux 4 in that map I attached above.

What was "the old ECU"? If you are talking about the stock ecu then that probably uses the six different width slots in the CAS to sync within 120degress of crank rotation. Our ECU (and most other aftermarket ECU's) I suspect only syncs once its seen the widest slot which could potentially be worst case 720degs rotation.

Im with CJ here, I dont see anything unusual ECU wise, it seems very much like a flow restriction. Have you had the manifold off recently? I have seen before guys leave rags stuffed inside etc...

Try -155 offset as well, you could be firing on exhaust stroke. You have a lot of trigger errors recorded in your log, can you do a trigger scope, here's a video how: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY

Sorry I wouldnt have a clue what a Dicktator ECU needs or what it is capable of. You know this is a Link ECU forum right? You are probably better asking Dicktator directly or asking on their forum.