Adamw

You specify in the knock settings the "knock window" in which to listen for knock, this window applies to every spark event. The ECU knows which spark plug it just fired so if it hears knock in the window just after the spark then it knows which cylinder the knock occurred in. Having 2 sensors fitted on a long engine gives you a better signal-to-noise ratio as the "microphone" in then closer to the noise source. This means if you get knock on a single cylinder the ecu will retard all 3 cylinders that are using the same trim table. If you have 1 table per cylinder then only the cylinder that knocked will be retarded.

It would be helpful to know what model car you have and what ecu.

If you have ITB's then you could possibly use MAP level sync, but otherwise you will need a cam sensor for sequential.

Our test car was a 2.0JDM GRB, dead stock including air box, MAF, exhaust, injectors and top mount IC. I never got around to removing the injectors to characterise properly so there could be some deadtime error baked into the tune which would consequently bake some error into the test you do for the fuel charge cooling coeff, so I cant say for sure that is representative. Be aware injector spray pattern affects charge cooling a lot also. having said that, the fuel control was quite stable in that car, the long-term fuel trims would average around +/-3% whenever I looked at them over different seasons and varied driving conditions. I mostly ran the Mobil 98 in that car. I use the test described in the help file for the charge cooling coeff to approximate both the deadtimes and the charge cooling. Ideally you need to do this on the dyno while holding steady and light load to get the PW up around 2ms where things are linear, I then set lambda target to 1.0, set the fuel table so it is flat around the operating area and lambda is sitting close to 1.0. Then change the lambda target to 0.95, note how much measured lambda changes, then change target to 1.05 and again note measured lambda. If it overshoots/undershoots the target significantly more on one side of 1.0 than the other, then the charge cooling needs adjustment. Tweak that and try again until you get a similar amount of over/under correction when you step the target leaner or richer from 1.0. Then do the same but tweak the deatime with each test until the measured lambda no longer over/undershoots a change in target. This sounds complicated but its really only about 15mins work once you get the hang of it and have everything set up to display and adjust all on the one page. The charge temp approximation table worked well in that car with the top mount, I dont think a front mount would change it significantly unless the manifold gets significantly cooler with the top mount removed. We were using the stock JDM sti IAT location beside the throttle.

As Vaughan suggested, you now set up the aux inside the function settings not inside the pin settings. There is no longer a Cam-switched function, this is done as a GP Output. So, go to VVT>Exhaust Bank 2, set PWM output to none. Then go to >Auxiliary Outputs>GP Output*, set the output to Aux 3, set the conditions for the switched cam.

I get quite variable results also. I had a range between 0.1 and 0.8s with a quick test I done. I suspect it is only being run in a slow loop so it wont be "seen" until the next loop comes around and assesses the switch state. I will get @Vaughan to confirm when he's back from holiday.

That one looks like it would be beyond repair to me - usually if they have been rescued early they will be recoverable, but judging by the rust on the nuts etc, it looks like a lot of that as been submerged for a long time. If you are in NZ it would be worth a call to Kelvin at the car tune company, he does a crap load of 1UZ's and could quite likely have a matching G1 sitting around. https://thecartunecompany.co.nz/contact.aspx

We dont offer a plug-in ECU for this model and dont have any info on the CAN bus either so unfortunately Link dont have an easy solution. I vaguely remember one of our dealers in Switzerland has fitted a Link ECU to a Megane RS and was reverse-engineering some of the CAN bus I think but im not sure what model and if he had all road car functionality or if it was a race car. I will see if @mapper can confirm.

Assign trans temp as a CAN analog, multiplier of 1. Then set up a GP temp input, set the source to the CAN analog you chose, and set calibration to none.

It looks like the ecu is happy with the trigger, it has stable dwell and no cuts so the ecu would be commanding spark and I dont see any reason for no spark. Can you pull a spark plug out and watch it while cranking to confirm.

Has it got the stock disc in it? If you manually set the widest slot to 9deg and turn test ECCS sync off, do you then have trig 1 sig or RPM showing when cranking?

The applications should run as far as I have seen but the comms drivers officially only support x86/x64. I know some users have successfully used the Mac M1 platform with G4X or G4+ PC Link by installing one of the generic ARM FTDI or CP210x drivers, but we cant offer much help with no test gear if it doesnt work. I haven't heard of anyone trying the PDM software so that is more unknown.

I think there must be something faulty or damaged with the ecu in that case, you will have to contact [email protected] and get it inspected.

Below is all we have available as GP IO in the mini CAN stream. Im not sure if "DSC switch" on CAN DI5 is the traction switch or not. Cruise control is an odd PWM protocol that we dont know much about, our test car didnt have cruise. As far as I know fuel consumption is already transmitted as per the factory ecu.

The trigger looks fine, what makes you think there is a trigger issue? The first thing I would suggest is to take notice of the red fault codes at the top of your screen. The "AN Volt 2 below error value", is likely what is preventing your engine from running. This is your MAP sensor input, so your MAP sensor is not connected, connected wrong, or not working so you are getting no fuel injected. It also looks like something is wrong with the TPS wiring, the AN Volt 1 voltage drops when cranking and is very noisy.

Trig 2 should be set to cam pulse 1X. You dont need to "sync" the cam sensor, just adjust the trigger offset until a timing light shows the correct timing.

The manufacturer's drawing is worthless with no internal schematic, but reading between the lines I would say the terminals or wires marked "+ & -" on the drawing are for the LED, and the other two wires are just either side of the switch contacts. So connecting it like below should work. The "+" and one of the switch wires connected together and then connected to the ECU DI. The "-" wire to ground, and the other switch wire to ign switched +12V.

These examples are math channels that are post-processed in the logging software after the fact though arent they? In this case you are only limited by the processing power and RAM of the PC being used, there is no time limitation on how long the calculation takes and the calculation typically only needs to occur once when the file is opened. The ECU math blocks are for real-time processing of live engine or chassis data, you have quite limited processing and memory resources in an ecu and since it may be used for live control strategies the calculation must be completed very quickly and is recalculated 250 times a sec. So there are lots of limitations that must be considered, but that's not to say the math block functionality cant be improved or have new operators and functions added - just I dont think it would ever be able to look or work like the i2 example.

Crowdsupply and Mouser both show the wiCAN is in stock for me.

0% would mean the mixture map would only use any sample that was measured when the engine was operating in the exact centre of the cell. 100% would mean the measurement would be used any time the engine was operating anywhere in the cell (this means there is potentially a lot of influence from adjacent untuned cells). About 30% would be a decent compromise for road tuning. Be aware the filters are used to specify what data to "include". If you want to filter out transients then make sure the "<" operator is selected. What do you mean by "it does not work"? Does the idle speed not increase or decrease if you change base position? If not I would pull the valve off and check the brass barrel freely moves, the bosch ones are prone to seizing if they have been sitting around. When un-powered they should sit partially open (say less than 1mm crack), it should push fully open easily with a screwdriver, and when you let go it should spring back to "nearly closed" position on its own with no help. If it doesnt move free you can usually free them up by spraying CRC or similar through it and working the barrel backwards and forwards. If it isn't seized and you can change idle speed then attach your tune and a log.

When fitted in the car with ignition on, do you have 12V on pin 67 and Gnd on pin 25? You can access these pins at the back of the grey connector on the ecu.

Correct the serial dash connection is no longer supported as this was not customisable and very few modern dashes or loggers offer serial input anymore. You can use any of the CAN adapters listed in the realdash manual including the meatpi. https://realdash.net/manuals/supported_can_lin_analyzers.php

Is it a G4+ or G4X? If nothing shows in device manager then likely the USB chipset is faulty/damaged. Contact [email protected] to have it inspected and repaired.

The Vign input is purely hardware, it is not available in software as when that input is off (assuming no USB plugged in) the PDM is completely powered down, there is no software running. The "Ign Sw" option in global enable is the same as "power enabled" except the outputs ignore USB power. The PDM will typically draw around 150mA, that can vary between about 130-300mA depending how many pull-ups you have turned on, the HC output states and how much load is connected to the 5V output.

The ecu will not prevent the speedo from working, the speedo gets its signal from the speed sensor independently from the ecu. Just try it with the pull-up off in case that is affecting the signal.