Adamw

Use the race timer function, I would probably trigger the timer at a specific speed rather than at the start line to eliminate some of the acceleration variables. You can use that to trim fuel ignition, boost, throttle, etc. What you choose to trim as the strategy will depend on what adverse condition you are trying to improve, combustion chamber temps? Exhaust gas temps? Water jacket temps? IAT temps? You may be able to cool combustion and EGT by adding more fuel, but with a rotary at high boost you may already be pretty rich with not a lot of headroom for that. Water injection may be an option or possibly reducing boost & increasing advance as RPM and time increases.

Your file shares are restricted, go back into the share settings and set them to "anyone with link".

Set the idle control MAP lockout to about 85Kpa since your idle vacuum isn't very good. Your lean start is likely IAT related, that is a guess without seeing the tune but in your log it is at 50°C when you first start and drops to 36C at the end of the log.

If the "When Stalled" setting is set to quiet mode then the throttle is disabled when the engine is off, it will be enabled when the engine starts turning. Will need a log and tune to assist with the DBW error.

I would say the main issue is you dont have enough fuel. You can see the lambda is already very lean at 1.4 when the sensor starts working and it continues to get leaner as the post start enrichment is removed. Try adding about 50% to your master fuel number and adjust from there. Also your MAP sensor is reading wrong, this wont affect fuel, since it is not being used but will affect functions which use MAP or MAP delta for lockouts etc. With the engine off the MAP should read about the same as BAP (~101kpa)

That looks like a map from an Atom, so you will only see hardware and software features that are available in an Atom (you can check in >help>ecu information). If you load it into your ecu it will be converted to a Monsoon map as its loaded, you can then save a new copy.

I believe we had some faulty MAP sensors recently, I dont know much detail of the symptoms that were reported but yours sounds like it could be faulty so I suggest you email tech support to bounce it off them. There are not too many other explanations that would fit.

You can use an aux output in PWM mode to generate a variable voltage, however it is not an ideal solution. The main issue being the output voltage will also vary with battery voltage, so the "normal temperature" will drift depending on bat voltage. .

This one should match:

You can use them interchangeably. Both effectively quiet sensor grounds.

Are they definitely genuine Bosch sensors from a reputable bosch dealer? I have seen fake sensors with cal resistors way out of spec which could cause this error. Not many other controllers do as many sensor validations as ours so the fact the sensor "works" on a different controller may not confirm the sensor is ok. Assuming the sensor is genuine and good, then I would be looking for a bad connection to pin 1 or 2. I have seen the terminals push back into the plug if they are not crimped well so have a good look at that too.

The SI drive knob with the factory ecu only changes between the three "torque request" maps - the torque request maps only control boost target and throttle target. The SI drive knob doesnt make any change to the diff control directly - just the engine torque changes so more torque gets reported to the diff controller and that may influence how the diff behaves in auto mode under some conditions. With the Link ECU you can set it up the same as factory if you wish, with the Si drive knob changing boost and throttle targets, or you can use it for some completely different purpose. The Link ecu still broadcasts estimated torque to the diff controller the same as the factory ecu, so the diff control should behave the same. You can mess around with the torque estimation multiplier if you want to broadcast a higher or lower torque value to the diff controller but it likely will make little difference. On our GRB in the sport sharp setting with the stock engine the actual engine torque produced was already greater than the maximum torque value that can be sent over CAN, so the diff controller wont see any difference in peak once you increase engine power above stock anyhow.

I dont have any further info sorry, it is not a well-supported engine at present. I only know of a couple of users running this engine and they both have the VVEL locked at max lift. I dont think there is any significant performance loss in locking it, as far as I know the VVEL is mostly used to reduce pumping losses at light load conditions.

If you were to make a custom trigger wheel, 24-1 would be my suggestion. If you use the stock sensor, make the teeth approximately the same size as the original teeth - so it will have small teeth with long gaps between them.

Try these. The ECU should receive Motec GPS speed as "RR Wheel Speed". Nissan S14 - latest map 2024 Receive RR wheel spd.pclr LINK G4+_MOTECC125 send GPS.c125v64

The LS1 has a 24 tooth wheel on the crank and a single 180deg long tooth on the cam or cam sprocket. The LS2 has a 60-2 wheel on the crank and a 4 tooth wheel on the cam sprocket (2 short teeth, 2 long teeth). What Im saying is the ecu would be happy to use the LS2 60-2 crank trigger with the LS1 cam trigger.

It still needs to be more closed than it should be. Did you try clamping off the brake booster and PCV hoses (if you have them)? Change the idle ign table axis and cells to match the one below will help a little. You should also set the whole top row of your E-throttle target table to 0 and your idle base position table will want much smaller values in it ~0.5% at the warm end and maybe 2% at the cold end.

K20 coils will usually have enough energy for up to around 2bar boost with most engines/fuels. What do you want pinouts for? The M50 crank/cam sensors?

This forum is for support of Link ECU's, we cant offer you any help for a factory ecu.

What ECU do you have?

No tune attached. What do you have the RPM lockout set at? It looks more like it is set to 150-200 in your last log? It should be close to 500ish. I would also try the changes in orange below to the ign and vvt.

Without a cam sensor you would have to change to multipoint group injection and wasted spark ignition, the coils would need re-wiring into pairs. You can use the 58X crank with the half moon LS1 cam pattern if that is the reason you are considering not using the cam.

The monsoon would do that fine, you could do semi-sequential for fuel, ignition would be wasted spark. Stock M52 ignition coils are dumb/non-amplified so it would probably be more cost effective to change to smart coils, possibly only need to buy 2 more K20 coils if they fit the M52. It might be a good idea to keep the M42 idle valve (2 wire I think) to save yourself an aux output and extra wiring (M52 is 3 wire). The M52 crank sensor can be used but it is hall effect so needs a 12V power supply. If you didnt want to run new wiring you could swap to the M50 crank sensor which is reluctor so works without 12V. I dont know the M52 variations well, but some have an odd frequency based cam sensor that will not work with aftermarket ecu's. This was on the models which used a seimens ecu originally - I dont know specifically if the M52TU was one with a seimens ecu. If yours has that then you need to swap the sensor(s) with one from a M50TU (vanos).

The drain wire is the bare one. This is used to connect the foil shield to ground.

What does the lambda 1 error runtime report?