Adamw

Air, with no fuel added would effectively be "infinity" air-fuel ratio, but 10.1 something lambda is the leanest the CAN lambda can read. But, the fact you have lambda reported with the engine off suggests you have "run when stalled" enabled which is not recommended for regular use, you should set this to NO except when you need to tune cold start.

I was in the middle of a reply when Vaughan beat me to it. So here is mine anyhow: Are you capable of basic wiring/crimping yourself? Link do offer a variety of CAN cables that could be used, but in this case since neither the keypad or CAN lambda has a built-in termination resistor I think it would be nicer to build your own bus. Schematically we want to achieve something like this: In practice there are several different ways to achieve this. One option is to arrange like a daisy chain, provided it does not need to be waterproof you can often crimp two wires into a single connector pin so a splice is not needed. Something like this (not shown but CAN H & L would be twisted): Using Link accessories would end up something like below, so possibly more complicated and expensive than it needs to be:

Just PID tuning. I dont remember doing one of the bosch throttles on a G4+, but looking at your values I suspect you need more P & D, less I.

The increment button is part of the CAN keypad functionality, it cant be used without one of the listed supported keypads. Probably the closest you will get is to use the Edge function in a math block. You may be able to play around with 2 math blocks, one to increase, the other to decrease.

Sounds like not enough fuel. Have you confirmed rail pressure? A quick way to add more fuel in modelled mode as a test is to increase the engine capacity setting. Will need a log to offer much more.

Yes, email [email protected], I beleive there are some K20X ecu's which had a problem with the e-throttle power supply circuit and voltage to the throttle would be very low.

Idle control is not active because your MAP is above the MAP lockout. Cant tell much about the fuel tune with no lambda so there may be other issues, but start by getting idle control set up. I would enable idle ignition control, use the idle ign settings below and fill out a suitable idle target RPM table. Then tune the base position table so that idle ign timing bounces around somewhere close to the ignition idle target during normal idle conditions. You've got no accel fuel since the cold correction table is zeroed out and you have warm-up enrichment adding fuel even when warm so likely the fuel tune needs a lot of work before idle will be good. VVT needs to be calibrated before it will function.

If you have a plug-in ecu the hardware is already built-in and the hold power is already set up and working in the base map, you dont need to do anything.

Start with the pinout and IO list in the quick start guide here: https://linkecu.com/documentation/AtomQuickstartGuide.pdf If you need more detail about anything more specific then download and install G4+ PC Link then click >help>wiring information. https://www.linkecu.com/pclink/PCLink G4+ EN-JP V5.6.8.3669 Setup.exe?_gl=1*10guq4w*_ga*MTIxMjM1MzU2MS4xNjA4NDk4NDc3*_ga_YGEEXMZ8NR*MTcwNTkxOTA2OS4xNTkuMS4xNzA1OTI1NDYxLjUxLjAuMA..

Yeah, typical starting point for I seems to be around 0.04 for me.

Yes, the most obvious one is trigger offset as everyone keeps suggesting. Your intermittent spark is likely the low battery voltage coupled with the dwell table that has barely any dwell increase at low voltage. Something like below would be more realistic. Get the spark working continuously, then confirm the offset with a timing light. I would also suggest changing fuel equation to modelled mode for now since none of the multifuel stuff has been set up, and import the crank enrichment table out of one of our base maps.

Can you give us a pic of the laptop and dash screen side by side so I can see fuel press in both at the same time.

Is it still ITB's or a single throttle? Your main issue appears to be you have way too much accel fuel, you are getting about 70-80% extra fuel when you move the throttle, typically I expect to see more like only 30% extra for this sort of movement speed. I would start by reducing the cold correction to 1.0 in the 70 & 80°C cells, probably drop the 60°C cell a bit also. In the first log your coolant drops to 73°C as time goes on so that alone is giving about 1.6x more accel fuel. If it still bogs with the cold correction reduced, then I would drop the clamp in the 1500RPM cell or wherever it seems to get too much fuel. It almost looks like the sens value is too high but it is only 15 in the map you attached, so not sure if that has different when the log was recorded and has since been changed or something? Your throttle control looks like it could be improved also, you get quite a lot of overshoot so this will tend to exaggerate the accel fuel also.

Your MAP sensor isnt working in the log so it has about 300% more fuel dumping in than it normally would, so start by fixing that to see if it helps. You can test the ignition outputs by pulling the spark plugs out so you can see them, then use the ignition test function to test spark each output.

The trigger 1 cable has a white wire, a black wire and a bare drain wire inside the jacket. The blackwire is trigger 1 signal, connect this to the "Out" pin on the sensor. The white wire is sensor ground, connect this to the "Gnd" pin on the sensor. The drain wire is connected to ground at the ecu end, since you are extending this cable, then you would connect the drain at the old "cut end" to the drain in the new extension cable.

If your question relates to the cam tooth location, then it doesnt matter, anywhere will do. If you are asking about the crank missing tooth location, then you can approximate a starting point offset by eyballing it. The "Trigger Offset" is the clockwise distance from TDC1 to the first tooth after the gap. Turn the engine to TDC1, note where the sensor is in relation to the first tooth after the gap, each tooth is 10deg so you can count how many teeth to get the angle. If the gap has gone past the sensor before TDC then the offset is negative, if the gap is still before the sensor at TDC1 then offset is positive. A couple of examples below. Note in these examples since we dont know where the cam tooth is, we could be on TDC exhaust stroke or compression stroke, this means there are two possible offsets - the one shown, then another 360deg earlier or later. So the -60 could be +300 and the +50 could be -310. This will be close enough to get the engine running, then you need to get a timing light connected and set the base timing with the engine idling. Example 1: Example 2:

Yes.

Attach a log of the fault occurring.

The shield doesnt connect to the sensor, it will be connected to nothing at the sensor end, but the whole shield should have continuity to ground for the full length.

In the log it looks like it is a lack of fuel, the RPM increases when inj PW increases and it appears happiest when the crank enrichment is dumping extra fuel in. Assuming it does actually have fuel pressure, then try adding about 50% to the current master fuel value. It looks like the trigger wheel is not causing any issues at this stage, but there is definitely something wrong with that wheel and will need to be fixed before the engine is run under load.

The most important one I see in the list that may affect you is to check the base timing after updating. There was a change in 6.20 that moved the trigger offset by 1 tooth with the trigger some missing tooth trigger modes.

Assuming the ecu has already been unlocked, then also check the antitheft runtime, the ecu will cut fuel and spark if the antitheft conditions are not satisfied.

Your DC5 ecu on ticket 46556 was finished on 17/1 and is on its way back to the USA office. You will have to email [email protected] for any further detail, but I assume the USA office will contact you when it arrives stateside.

How long will the extension be? It should really be shielded if more than a couple of hundred mm. Some older ECU's were pretty fussy, with G4+ it can be anywhere. Ideal would be to have the gap passing the sensor at around 45° after TDC. You have slightly less accuracy around the missing teeth as there are less position updates, so it is best to have this potentially less accurate area outside of the normal window where you trying to time a spark.

Can you show me how they worded that? Did they specifically say it can be used as a configurable CAN device with a descriptor file in realdash? The manual certainly doesnt suggest it is possible. What adapter setting do you choose in realdash to enable that?