Adamw

You should read the help page; PCLink G5 User Manual > User Interface > Layouts and Views > Views to get a more complete answer, but as a quick comment, if you want more than one settings view then you need to lock the existing one (click the padlock at the top left corner of the view). Further, if you want 2 copies of the same table (for example one in tabular view and one in surface view) then lock the first one and shift click to add the second. You can also hold down ctrl when clicking a ecu settings tree menu to get the whole menu in one settings view.

This is the pinout of the DTM receptacle on the sensor "extension cable":

CAN bus is just a communication method so other devices can "talk" with the ECU. In the case of AFR it would be a CAN bus lambda controller. But no, the ecu isn't going to tune it for you. You can use closed loop lambda to make small adjustments to lambda in realtime, but that is not for tuning, the fuel map will need to be in pretty good shape already and the CLL takes significant tuning before it will work effectively also.

You can connect it to any analog input. That is assuming you have any spare, its quite likely you dont with a Monsoon.

It sounds more like a plumbing issue. Common is the "middle" port on the denso, this should be connected to the actuator. NO is the top port, this should go to the boost source. The bottom port should be vented.

On/off control would be ok, but I wouldnt do PWM with paired outputs.

All of those errors would be expected if the have the engine loom unplugged. 23 is because the oil press sensor is disconnected, 26 is because the fuel press sensor is disconnected, 52 is because the IAT is disconnected. What do you mean by Inj 1 & 3 connected to the same wiring? If you swap wires between inj 1 & 3, does inj 3 then click if you put inj 1 in test mode?

A gradient and offset type calibration is only used for a linear sensor like a MAP sensor. NTC temp sensors are not linear, you need a calibration table or polynomial equation for a NTC. The Link IAT1/8 sensor uses the common GM or Delphi calibration curve, the Link IATB sensor uses the Std Bosch NTC curve. Data for those 2 sensors I have marked below:

There is no way to tell the offset from the trigger scope. If the missing tooth passes the sensor at 105BTDC then the trigger offset will be about -125 or 235

Assuming it had the K20A/A3 engine originally it should be a direct fit.

In essb00's picture above, Active state "low", means it will be ground when active/on. The "Engine Fan 1 Temperature" is the temperature you want it to switch on at.

If your AEM wideband is an Xseries then it can be connected to CAN. If it is an older analog one then it needs to be connected to an analog input.

Have you confirmed this yourself? The DI's are high impedance so it would have to be a pretty elaborate circuit to even detect an ecu DI was connected. I have only seen issues when users connect the ground to ABS units that have differential inputs. In any case, it would take ten minutes for the OP to poke a wire into the connector to find out. If that didnt work then a cheap GPS speed sensor would work or the ecumaster wheelspeed to CAN box has differential inputs so would work with the ABS sensor.

Here’s an old video I done for someone else: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Ht1YYpnc7oUFCxY16

This is intentional as dx4picco suggests. LTFT will not be "learning" when CLL is disabled, but the learned trim from the table will always be applied. There is a "disable input" in the LTFT settings that you can use to disable both learning and the trim under any conditions you think it is not wanted.

I think splicing into a wheel speed sensor will likely work in this car, It will depend on how sophisticated their fault checking is and whether the -ve is isolated from ground or not (the diagnostics manual suggests it is not isolated). The easiest access is probably in the main ABS unit connector. Pin 9 is the FL wheel speed signal, try splicing into this and connect it to a spare DI on the ECU. In the ecu software, set FL wheel speed to the DI you connected it to, make sure the pull-up is off, set the calibration to say 1000 as a starting point and go for a drive to see if you get a speed reported in the ecu and no ABS lights on the dash. If that works then report back and I will give further info on how to get the speed signal to the dash.

Be aware the 12V on pin 85 needs to come from an ignition-switched source, not live all the time. Im not sure if that is what your box near the battery labelled "ignition" is meant to be representing or not as it is a bit unusual to have the high current supply to pin 30 coming from the ignition switch.

Yes, that sounds like it is happy now. You can try starting it with the offset at -100 and if it starts it is easier to check the timing while it is idling. It it doesnt start then you will need to get a timing light connected and adjust the offset until the timing is somewhere close. Then check it again once running.

Sorry I forgot this was a G4+. G4+ is very limited with CAN inputs. Probably the best option would be to change the CAN AN Volt parameter in the CAN stream to use a CAN TC Cyl# instead.

Have you confirmed there is 12V present at the coil the whole time?

The Voodoo is the closest we will have to a Thunder replacement.

It's like extracting blood from a stone sometimes... What version/year/model WRX? Does it have traction control and DSC? And is it a plug-in ecu or wire-in?

No, ecu setup would be the same and LS/MS first would work the same since we are only looking at a single bit. Most likely the CAN info you have is not actually the AC request - it may just be something related to AC such as the blower is on or a clutch status etc. You will really need a sniffer to confirm.

It is unlikely that an incorrect trigger offset would cause one cylinder to not run, if the offset was wrong then all cylinders would be advanced or retarded by the same amount. Can you attach a copy of the map and a short log of it running.