Adamw

How easy it will be to get a small qty will depend a lot on where you are in the world really. There are several different series terminals that work in this connector. TE MCON, Bosch Matrix, Kostal MLK. Common microtimer size seals are close enough. One example: https://www.corsa-technic.com/category.php?category_id=308

It is specific to some NB2 plug-ins only, all stock was recalled for updating when the problem was discovered so there arent many out in the field. Yes, in this case the VVT is high side driven, so effectively a diode in parallel to the solenoid. Something like a 1N5404 would do it.

Yes, you have told the ecu that the APS sub should read 100% when the main is at 50%, but the signal it is receiving does not reflect that. If the signal does not match the expected signal then the error accumulator will continue to increment until the signal is corrected.

Go back into your sharing settings and set them to "anyone with link".

The crank sensor waveform is definately very unhappy. I would start by running 2 new wires from the sensor direct to the ecu, you dont need to bother with shielded wire or anything, just whatever you have or can get easily to do a quick test to see if the waveform cleans up. If it is still not happy with a new connection then I would be looking for mechanical issues that are affecting the airgap - loose pulley, crank end float, etc.

Your screenshot shows the APS sub covers the full range of pedal movement so the APS (Sub) 100% setting should be set to 100% for this pedal. You would only set it to 50% if you had a pedal where the APS sub output only varied voltage for the first 50% of pedal movement and becomes static above that.

Upload to google drive, onedrive, icloud or similar and share a link here.

Yes, this will be the lack of recirculation diode on the output causing this, the solenoid with be rapidly snapping fully open/fully closed similar to an injector, rather than floating about some middle position proportional to current like it is meant to. This was a design oversight that was somehow missed.

I think you are mostly just seeing the effect of the logging frequency, you will only have 2 or 3 sample points for a full throttle sweep with a 40Hz PC Log, the data points are then just joined with a smoothed line. You will get a better picture if you do an ecu log at 100Hz. Log RPM, APS main, TPS main, E-throttle target and E-throttle motor DC at 100Hz.

The picture of the oscilloscope screen and the pdf document attached shows the sensor is wired with incorrect polarity, you need to swap the +/- wires. The waveform should first rise slowly from 0V, then sharply fall as a straight line across 0V to the negative voltage, then rise slowly back to 0V. Correct and incorrect polarity examples below. Note the Storm has an ocsilloscope function built in. If you have any further problem, please use the internal trigger scope so we can see both crank and cam together. >ECU Controls >Trigger Scope. Click the capture button while the engine is cranking or running then "save as log".

Yes, just a single ground would be ok, they are all connected internally. So, say Gnd on pin 1 and +12V on pin 3, the ecu should be powered up and a PC should be able to connect.

If it really is a 0280158040 then use the data I originally posted as this has been tested with a Link injector driver.

It is a 2 wire reluctor sensor, just swap the +/- wires at the sensor plug. The trigger offset will be near zero. The VVT tooth counts and tooth offsets will be automatically set later when you run the cam angle calibration, these are not relevant to the trigger and not needed to get it running.

It doesnt have to be, you can set it to single mode or multifuel mode. In single mode you can use a 3D table with ECT Vs Eth% which is less tuning and will work sweet for start up and idle etc but possibly wont drive as nice if you do drive while the engine is still cold. If it needs to drive nice both warm and cold then the two blended tables with TPS on the axis would prob give a better result but will take a lot more cold starts over a period of weeks to tune.

Possibly not a laptop, but at least 2 windows desktop PC's. The first thing they always do is connect if possible to save a copy of the customers map. That was done successfully. A screenshot below that was saved in the service notes showing it connected when first received. After basic testing and a thorough visual inspection of all potential related circuits with no faults observed, they have decided to replace the USB connector and done a re-flow on the complete USB circuit as a precaution - these are the most common causes/fixes for coms issues. The USB pins can be damaged from external stress/bending and the re-flowing is a method used to restore a fatigued or otherwise high resistance solder joint. They have then re-conformal coated the pcbs for corrosion protection, reassembled, and this ecu would have had a vacuum leakdown test after assembly to ensure the case is fully sealed. They then loaded a test map into it for the automated production test, this test has a PC commanding a test routine controlling all IO via the USB tuning port while a test device connected to the main header monitors and records it all and compares it to an expected response. After passing this test they have loaded your map back in, connected the ecu to an engine simulator and manually tested all common functions, this is all done with PC Link connected so you can manually compare PC Link to the simulated conditions. The manual testing was successful also. We only keep brief notes so not all steps are recorded but we would typically load the original map back in again at the end of all testing as sometimes you change settings while testing. So it seems pretty thorough to me and not one hint of any unexpected behaviour noted when testing in NZ over what looks like several days work. I dont like to discount the quick test done in the Brisbane office as there are no notes about how it was done or how it was powered etc but I must say I am more confident of the testing done in NZ by the service team who are all EE's and do this stuff all day everyday and have documented most of what they have done. I dont really have any other good suggestions other than returning it to the Brisbane office again for another look, if they cant connect to it again then it would certainly be more of a mystery to me. Or if you know a friendly dealer nearby you could try asking them if they can have a go at connecting to it on the bench.

Looks better. Would need to see a cold start log to see if it is too rich or too lean causing the hesitation. Jesus that MAP sensor datasheet really shows they have no clue. Its actually a 4bar MAP sensor, yet they call it 3bar and then state it is only good for 2 bar boost, it clearly has a 400kpa range. And the table at the bottom labelled "Absolute Pressure Vs Voltage", is actually showing gauge pressure.

That runtime comes directly from the warm-up enrichment table or if you are using multi-fuel mode it will be a blend of the two tables. Do you have multifuel mode enabled? Are you sure that is the map that was running in the ecu at the time that log was recorded?

Yes you could use either the high speed or normal speed relay to achieve the same thing, just need to connect the right one to the fan. It appears to be a special 5pin relay with 2 "triggers" so I dont know if it has the standard ISO footprint and pin numbers.

I have made some adjustments to your map as a better starting point. I have good data for those injectors so I have converted your map to modelled fuel equation. Fixed up the accel fuel and idle ign and turned off a few things to simplify initial tuning. Leave CLL off for now. Are you sure the MAP sensor calibration is correct? I dont see any 4bar MAP sensor on their website? What wideband controller do you have? The calibration on this is quite odd also. Make sure base timing is set, then with the engine warmed up and idling, adjust the throttle stop so that it is idling somewhere close to target with the ignition timing bouncing around about 5BTDC, this will allow a bit more air flow and advance to give it the best chance of idling when cold with no idle valve. jacks 2jz V6.pclx

Please attach the tune, a log of some pedal movements with the aux 17 polarity low, and another log with it set high. And a triggerscope capture of it cranking.

That is normal. Is there some issue you are trying to solve?

You will need a cam sensor for direct spark ignition. With no cam sensor the ecu has no idea whether it is TDC compression stroke or TDC exhaust stroke so will get it wrong approx 50% of start attempts. If the other car with no cam sensor started reliably then it must have been using wasted spark ignition - but your injection timing would have been randomly incorrect in that case too.

So you have the correct driver version showing in device manager now?

Unfortunately I think this would have to be an internal hardware issue. That Aux9/10 supply voltage should normally remain within about 1 volt of battery voltage, this supply is all routed and switched internally so I dont think there is anything external or wiring related that could cause the low voltage you see here. Please email [email protected] to get it checked out.

The stock fan is not controlled by the ecu at all, the "normal speed" relay gets its on/off signal from the AC unit or temp switch, part of the temp switch and pressure switch also swap the fan from normal speed to high speed depending on temp and ac pressure. The compressor control relay is not suitable for controlling a fan as it only has a 7.5A supply. If you want to control the "Normal speed" relay with the ECU instead of the temperature switch, then I would cut the Ign 7 wire off the compressor control relay where I have put the blue line. Also cut/disconnect the temp switch from the Normal speed relay (I have shown as a blue line cut also). Then connect the Ign 7 wire to where the temp switch originally connected to the normal speed relay (shown as pink line).