Adamw

Yes, that will be fine. A single crank sensor is all it needs provided you can use a missing tooth pattern such as 36-1. Alpha N is fine. The injection event needs to be timed with the transfer event so you need injectors that are big enough to get all your fuel in in ~<180deg. Better still, injectors firing into the transfer ports if they are accessible. Fuel pressure sensor is nice to have, but not essential. TPS, IAT, ECT and lambda is all you need. I wouldnt bother with ecu speed control for the fuel pump, this is typically only done to reduce noise. Just use a reputable brand of regulator.

It would be possible, but it would be a bit of a chore. You would need the remote module, and this must use either aux 1&2 or aux 3&4. There is no aux 4 on this ecu so aux 1 & 2 would have to be it, they are originally used for the intake cam vvt solenoids so you would have to move those to different auxes (maybe 3 & 5 if you dont have exhaust vvt). You will need 2 extra analog inputs for the 2 TPS as well.

You have a CAN lambda channel set up on both CAN ports so one will be overwriting the other. Turn off the one that doesnt have anything connected and it will work correctly.

Your question is not particularly clear. What specific kit do you have? Where does it say that the power supply is optional?

I cant see how having the Link ECU connected in parallel would change the frequency that the speedo receives. It is pretty normal for OEM speedos to read higher than reality, quite often more like 10%.

I have no personal experience with that particular device, just know of a couple of users that has successfully used it with active sensors.

Im pretty sure the Gensesis will be an active sensor, you will need some type of external conditioner to make it work. This one may work: https://sirhclabs.com/product/cortex-ebc-speed-sensor-adapter/

If it is DBW and AVCS cams then you wouldnt have enough IO to run it.

Your fuel pressure sensor cal is wrong, set it to 1000kpa/150Psi TI, confirm fuel pressure is correct, set fuel system type to FP sensor. Also, confirm the MAP sensor reads the same as BAP with the engine off - it wasnt when you last saved the map but that may have been caught just as the ecu went offline. I would also change the injector flow rate to 1277cc. 15.86g/s /0.745density * 60s = 1277, and turn off the IAT trim table.

I can probably help with the CAN and torque reduction set-up, the rest is really specific to turbolamik and probably needs their help.

You can measure the resistance of the sensor at room temp to confirm if it is ok or not. They should be about 3500Ohm at room temp ~20°C

The ecu just needs a single ground on either pin 1 or 2 and +12V on pin 3 to power up. I wouldnt cut up your loom to do that, buy a cheap set of alligator clip leads or find an old teminal from some other scrap automotive connector that will slide on.

The "misfire" in your log is the oil pressure safety activating due to low oil pressure. One example below, your GP limit table expects at least 400Kpa oil pressure at 3500RPM but you only have 177Kpa. From your other comments I would strongly suggest you fit a fuel pressure sensor also, so that can be monitored properly and have some safety strategy applied.

That should be correct if you have a 30-307, if it is a 30-301 the ID would be 656129. And make sure frame ID position is set to none. Calibration should be set to none.

correct.

If its showing 0.5V wiith no pressure that would suggest the sensor is working and the wiring is correct. Failed pressure sensors usually either short the 5V rail so all sensors start reading wrong, or the output will be intermittent/noisy, not just flat at 0.5V. So I would be suspicious there actually is no oil pressure. Perhaps the oil system was not primed correctly.

Have you confirmed the sec/pri flow ratio is correct by switching between 0% and 100% in the staging table? Assuming that is correct then just reduce your staged injection accel fuel until you get the smoothest transition possible, dont worry about the lambda so much, but more the feel. Also, (not related to staged injection) you should put non-zero values in your accel cold correction table as you have no accel fuel at all right now.

What sensor do you have?

I would use a pull-up of around 5-6Kohm based on those resistances.

The top link is still restricted, the bottom link works.

Can you attach a log and a copy of the tune. Is there anything else on the bus with the lambda? Error 53 would suggest a bus issue, like an ID conflict or excessive CAN errors.

There is a DBC for the generic dash stream attached in my post above.

A 10 ohm resistor doesnt sound correct. The help file says to use a 2.2ohm if the injectors are less than 2ohm, or a 4.7ohm if the injectors are between 2-6ohm. But that will not cause any "cut". Your log also doesnt show primaries being cut, obviously their PW will drop a lot because your staging table is telling the ecu that you want to deliver 70% of the fuel through the secondary injectors. Your short PW adder table looks wrong for the secondary injec tors also.

Try changing the stepper motor steps to 220, store, then shut ecu off for 10 sec before restarting, see if that allows higher RPM to be achieved, if not then you will have to adjust the throttle stop to allow more air in.

Your share links have restricted access, you need to go into their share settings and change the settings to something like "anyone with link"