Adamw

With G4+ the bulk of your idle airflow should come from the top row of the E-throttle target table, and the idle base position table should only have the extra required for the cold start/fast idle. I think your 3D table is also probably making it more complicated than it needs to be. Your gains are also way too high, this is the cause of the oscillation. I have simplified your idle set up a little in the attached file. Try this and give me a new log. I would also suggest you update your firmware to the latest, there were some improvements made to CL idle in 5.6.8. Idle adjustments.pclr

I dont think Richard ever suggested there was a spreadsheet available, the original poster had attached one. The Header pinouts now have pin numbers on them in the QSG here: https://linkecu.com/documentation/G5/G5-Voodoo-Pro-QS.pdf And there is an installer table here: https://linkecu.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/08/G5-Installer-IO-Table.pdf Attached is a spreadsheet version of the IO table. G5-Installer-IO-Table.xlsx

Yes, preferably close to the AEM device. The CAN JST4 can be used to supply the power to the AEM lambda. From memory I think the AEM device just comes with flying leads and doesnt actually have the 4 pin DTM connector already fitted, but just in case im remembering that wrong, be aware AEM use a different pinout convention in the DTM4 plug than link do, so make sure both sides are the same.

Peak egt is close to stoichiometric, egt drops as you go richer or leaner than Stoich. So it sounds like your #4 cylinder is significantly leaner than the others at idle. Not unusual with large injectors operating in their non-linear region.

8psi at idle sounds about right, with ign on, engine off, does MAP match BAP?

if you attach your dash config and ecu tune I will take a look when I get time.

I think the scope capture looks odd because ch1 is set with ac coupling - so effectively the DC offset is removed and you only see the transition. Assuming it is a B5254T4 engine then below is probably what you have (From https://rotkee.com/en/wavebase/good-timing-ckp-cmp-signal-volvo-v70-2000-2007?brand=203&engine=1695) This would work with multi-tooth/missing, 60-2, sync tooth 1, cam level sync. This scope was taken at idle and you can see the yellow spark occurs at about the 15th tooth, so offset will likely be around 90 or -270.

As a general rule, any electronics in a car is usually designed to be able to handle "12V", any input would typically have a clamp diode or series resistor to protect it. We cant say that for certain for this particular device unless someone else has tried, but I can say I have never fried any automotive PWM device connected direct to a normal aux, including many fan controllers, fuel pump controllers and alternators that all used a 5V high level pwm originally.

It is wrong as I said above, you need to swap the + & -. And it should have the shield connected, why do you think they went to the extra cost of using a 3 pin connector and shielded cable.

Thats odd. The only logic I could apply to explain that would be something faulty on board. I think you will have to contact [email protected] to get it inspected.

They are low side drive. The aux outputs have a 12V pull-up so will be pulled up to 12V when off. ign and injector drives dont have pull-ups so you could add your own 5V pull-up into the wiring if you really needed 5V. If it is a PWM device however it probably doesnt care what voltage is used - as the name suggests it is using pulse width, not voltage.

The boost gear trim uses a 2D table with fixed axes, you would have to use a GP boost table to reference a keypad.

Not anytime in the near future, what G5 feature do you require on smaller ecu?

Sorry, I have been busy the last few days. I have done the basics in the attached files. Virtual auxes should now be received by PDMs. The rear PDM receives Keypad counts from the front PDM. The boost button is received into ECU as CAN DI 1. For the page up/down buttons, I suspect you dont need these in the ecu? Typically we would just set up the dash to receive these directly from the PDM. For the half bridge I suspect it will need to be PWM. Try giving it a fixed DC & frequency like 99%DC and 100Hz and see if that works as intended. Adam Davies 13b 180sx Thunder g4+ V1.0.pclr 1 Adam Davies 180sx 13B Razor PDM Rear V1.0.pdmc Adam Davies 180sx 13B Razor PDM Front V1.0.pdmc

Are you sure it is related to ignition noise, it looks ok on the first WOT pull in your log and only gets noisy above 160kmh. It also appears only the driven wheel gets noisy but the non-driven doesnt. What sensors are being used?

You can view the runtime "CL Lambda Status" to see the reason it is locked out. The log shows TPS delta lockout, MAP delta lockout and MAP lockout so it sounds like the CLL is probably not set up at all. The VVT I would say you haven't done the VVT calibration. With the engine warmed up and at fast idle above the lockout, set the cam angle test to calibrate, it should set itself back to off after a few seconds if successful.

Was the knock control previously tuned and working correctly? Can you attach a copy of the tune?

The ECU hold power function then wouldnt work for keeping the ecu alive after ign off to reset the stepper motor. Contact [email protected], it will likely be a warranty repair if the diode has failed.

Ok, it looks like the ign sw input and the relay control logic in the ecu is setup correctly and working as expected. Can you check voltage on pin C23 with the ign sw off - I would like this measured by "back probing" with a needle or similar so everything is still plugged in as it normally would be. The most likely explanation I can come up with based on your symptoms initially is possibly the FET that controls pin C23 is damaged/faulty. This voltage test will confirm that.

If the 10deg mark lines up when the timing is locked at 10deg then the timing is correct.

Correct. And you will only need to configure extra stuff that has been connected.

Is it using a E36 plug-in ecu and a M50TU loom or something else? There is a basemap for the M50TU in PC Link that will get it running without much adjustment.

The service notes say the ecu was all working correctly when received. It had several hours in the burn-in tester with no faults found. As a precaution they have reflowed the complete USB circuit and replaced the USB connector to eliminate the possibility of an intermittent bad connection somewhere.

The trigger scope shows the crank sensor is wired incorrect polarity, so you need to swap the +/- wires at the crank sensor plug. For the throttle, you will have to do a manual calibration on E-throttle 2. Temporarily set Aux 2 to off so power to the throttle is disabled. Open the run-times screen, go to the analog tab, push the throttle blade fully closed and note done the voltages shown on AN Volt 7 & 8. Then push the blade fully open and note down the voltages again. Put the E-throttle in set-up mode then go to throttle position sensor 2 and manually type in the open/closed voltages for TP sub and main that you had noted down.