Adamw

Yes, EMAP = Exhaust Manifold Absolute Pressure. If you think of the engine just as an orifice or restriction, air flow through it is relative to the pressure on the intake side Vs pressure on the exhaust side. If you increase pressure on the exhaust side while keeping the pressure on the intake side the same then air flow decreases. As the compressor and turbine move further outside of their peak efficiency island you will see the pressure ratio (MAP/EMAP) increase dramatically.

Set the OEM CAN mode to off, it is currently set to R53 mini which has a CAN bus controlled AC.

It looks like you have trigger 2 wired to the intake cam, it needs to be the exhaust cam. The Intake cam has 4 evenly spaced teeth so this gives no unique event that the ecu can synchronise to. Right now you are syncing by luck of the draw. The exhaust cam on the other hand has 5 teeth, so the ecu will see 3 teeth on one crank rev and 2 for the next crank rev so it knows what phase it is in. The intake cam sensor should be wired to digital input 1-4 it this engine has VVT.

Can you attach a short PC log showing the problem. You are testing with the engine running correct?

Most likely EMAP is running away.

Please do a trigger scope capture while cranking and attach the file here. A short PC log of it cranking and idling also. VVT settings make no difference to the trigger or the ability for the engine to start. The ecu will always use the sensors that are wired to the trigger 1 and trigger 2 pins. The scope will confirm if these are correct or not.

Set dwell as pic below, if you have a misfire at high boost you can add MGP to the X axis and increase dwell a little around the pressure it starts to misfire. Yes you definitely should stick with resistor plugs.

It is your idle ignition turning on/off due to the RPM lockout. Be aware the idle ignition lockout uses actual RPM whereas the normal Idle speed control function uses RPM above target, so it needs to be set above your normal idle RPM. I would set the Idle Ign RPM lockout to about 1400RPM and the MAP lockout is a bit close to being breached when cold so I would increase that to 70Kpa also. And, as per Kris' suggestion, the idle ign table could be much more aggressive, I didnt look at his adjusted map but I would typically run zero error timing around 10deg so you have lots of torque in reserve and ramp in about an extra 10deg per 100rpm error.

Pin 3 will be the 2nd temp signal to the dash. If you measure voltage between pin 1 & 2 in the plug you should have 5V, and if you measure resistance between pin 1 & 2 of the sensor you should see somewhere between about 2500ohm on a cold engine and 100ohm on a hot engine. Your runtimes are showing there is no comms on CAN 1. Did you confirm the lambda was actually wired to CAN 1?

The settings in the base map are correct. The K24 sensor produces a signal that is inverted compared to the K20. I've attached an updated Integra base map as the VVT table got messed up in the original base map at some point. Honda Integra Type R (DC5) G4X Xtreme Plugin.pclx

Yeah, looks good in that one, no MAP variance from battery voltage now. But, does the MAP still read wrong when hot?

The CAN ports are marked on the board. When you know the correct port, then you need to set that port up as per below:

Both CAN ports are turned off and there is no CAN Lambda assigned in the map attached. What CAN port is it wired to?

Looking at your log, im leaning more towards there being a bad ground connection or similar. You can see in the pic below the MAP voltage and MAP pressure jump up as soon as the battery voltage drops as the starter engages. The engine will barely have started to turn at this point so there should be no manifold pressure change. After that the MAP voltage is mirror image of the battery voltage (ie the MAP voltage drops 0.3V when the batt voltage increases 0.3V). The 5V output shows the MAP sensor should have a constant supply. So, the question is, why does the MAP sensor voltage seem to be affected by battery voltage? My feeling would be a high-resistance ground or similar? I would try shaking/wiggling/tugging/bending the loom while watching the MAP reading on the laptop.

If you have a G4+ plug-in and are using the onboard MAP sensor then it should be 4Bar.

Try changing the fuel pump relay output to Ign 3.

The ECU is set up correctly, AN Temp 1 is reading 5.00V so this means your ECT circuit is open, you either have a wiring/connection issue or a failed sensor.

The dash has its own sensor so this doesnt tell us much about the ECU temp sensor. Do you mean AN Temp 1? Is the pull-up turned on? Can you attach a copy of your tune.

It sounds like is has too much fuel during cold start to me. Some suggested changes as a quick test to see if its heading in the right direction or not. Also, you dont have ecu hold power set up, so make sure after turning on the ignition you wait a few seconds for the idle valve to re-home before cranking. Multiply the whole pre-crank prime table by 0.5 (so the values are approx half of what they are now. Change the accel fuel to the example below.

Its working ok in that log, do you have one when it is not working? Is it one of the current MAP sensors as pictured here?: https://dealers.linkecu.com/3-Bar-MAP

If it starts and runs then it would be fine to move. Whether it actually runs will depend on how much has been changed such as injector size and MAF etc.

This would be the same as adjusting the trigger offset by 120deg (or -120)

Your jumpers should be in the 94-02 position (all horizontal). Since your ecu powers down with the jumpers in the incorrect position that may suggest your back feed is coming from the AC fan relay. Can you try it with J5 & J7 (marked below) unplugged, with all the others left connected horizontally per 94-02. If it then powers down with those jumpers removed then your backfeed is coming from the AC fan relay on Pin 9 or 10.

Email [email protected], you can point them to this thread if you like to show troubleshooting that has been done already and they will advise options.

Adjust the master fuel value to get the mixture somewhere in the ballpark.