Adamw

I can give you some basic settings as a starting point, attach a copy of your map. Do you have a strain gauge on the lever?

I just loaded your map into a G5 on the bench here, running the same firmware as yours, and had a good look at the broadcast data. The dash stream is there and all looks correct. With no other explanation that really fits your symptoms, Im leaning towards there being an issue with the dash now. One thing I would try is changing the ecu stream in the dash to something completely different, then change it back to the LINK CAN BUS BASE so it reinitialises the CAN set up. If still no go after that then I think the dash is going to have to come back for testing.

Sorry, this is correct, I just edited my post as I had those swapped. Your log showed realistic RPM so that tells us trigger 1 is correct, but I know some of the later GM V6's also had a separate single-tooth cam sensor so I was really just trying to confirm that trig 2 was in fact connected to the crank sensor and not a cam sensor.

Do you have the same voltages if you check at one of the other devices? Can you attach a copy of the tune.

Can you also confirm that the coils are wired like this: Cyl 1 & 4 to ignition 1. Cyl 6 & 3 to Ign 2. Cyl 5 & 2 to Ign 3. And the crank sensor pin B(18X signal) is connected to trigger 1 and pin A(3X signal) is connected to trigger 2.

If there is a misfire occuring at the same time then I would be most suspicious of the main power supply or ground as just a comms issue is not going to cause a misfire. Can you attach or share the log file.

Those voltages at least suggest it is connected to a CAN bus, but I would have expected a bigger voltage difference if there were the 4 streams transmitting on that bus. Is it possible the dash is actually wired to CAN 2, not CAN 1?

Yes our IATB is the same part number, a common VAG sensor. The manufacturer quoted calibration curve for the 028130085 is ever so slightly different to the common "Std Bosch NTC" but only really significant below 0°C and they have a large tolerance at low temps also, so most manufacturers including us just consider it the same curve. 2.4-2.5Kohm at 20°C. The Bosch 0280130017 calibration is very rare, as far as I know it was only used for a cyl head temp sensor on an air-cooled Porsche for a short time period. ~1.65Kohm at 20°C. This should not give correct results with your sensor. The Link NTC1/8 is very similar to the common Delphi/GM calibration. ~3.5Kohm at 20°C. The first thing I would do is measure the resistance of your 028130085 at 20°C (normal room temp), it should be close to 2400ohm. The official range is 2290-2551ohm. There are some pretty low quality clones around.

I dont see why it wouldnt work correctly like this:

Contact [email protected], they will be able to do a basic test in our Brisbane office.

With a missing tooth crank wheel, all of the engine control is done from the crank wheel, the cam is only used to determine the correct phase during initial start up, once running it will only look at the cam to resync if there is an issue with the crank signal. With your trigger 2 set to optical/hall and the wrong tooth count cam wheel, it would mean the ecu would occasionally sync on the wrong phase during cranking so it just wouldnt start. Basically you have a 50/50 chance of syncing correctly so it would probably start normally about 50% of attempts and other times it would just crank with no signs of life or possibly the odd backfire. It shouldn't cause any issues when running.

All your settings look ok. Can you unplug the 14pin plug from the back of the dash and measure what voltage you have between pins 2 & 8 (gnd & CAN H) and also between pins 2 & 9 (gnd & CAN L). If there is data reaching the dash you should have >3V on pin 8 and <2V on pin 9.

You can have a look at our dealer list here to see if any sound familiar to you being a local. From that list, the two that Im vaguely familiar with that do a wide range of cars similar to yours would be Sandown Mechanical (their tuning business is Springy Performance Dyno) and Johnson Performance Centre.

It is pretty straight forward and intuitive from memory. The updater is available in the G1/2/3 section at the bottom of this page: https://linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/pc-link-legacy-software/ It will display the release notes before the update which lists what has changed, take note if it mentions any changes or fixes to a function that you are using, but mostly it is pretty specific bug fixes that will only affect a small amount of users, usually you wont need to do any tuning after the update.

You dont need a new MAP sensor, it just has the wrong calibration set. Please humour me and set them to 325cc. An engine will always start easier with too much fuel than too little. Your log suggests there is not enough fuel (some of this lack of fuel is because the MAP is at 60Kpa though). Injector wiring wont make any difference as it is batch fire. This wiring is fine. I would suggest you update the firmware too, you have 5.6.4 which is very old and one I am not familiar with.

Your MAP sensor is reading wrong, it should show about 100Kpa when the engine isn't running. Try the settings in the pic below. Assuming it has stock injectors, your injector flow rate should be about 325cc/min. I would turn off all the advanced fuel stuff for now so you have factors involved which will make it easier to understand. Turn off the dual fuel table, IAT trim table, and 5D fuel table. Populate the charge temp table with the example values in the help file.

Your stoichiometric ratio is set to 14.1 in the ecu, the AEM uses 14.6 from memory.

I had an email from HTG in June 2021 and I said yes we would be happy to set up either a predefined stream or templates etc as well as offer any info or setup instructions for documentation, he said he would get his developer to come back to me with what they wanted but I haven't heard anything since. I have helped a few people set up the basic comms before so can probably help you.

The master fuel could probably be dropped to about 10-12ms but I would say it is probably close enough to allow it to start. Do you have realistic RPM showing in PC Link when cranking? Have you used the injector test and Ign test to confirm your injectors are working and you have spark? Unrelated, but note your fuel press sensor calibration is wrong, it should be 1000kpa, not 10000kpa.

Also, what are you using for an ignition module or coil pack?

Can you attach the actual log file and a copy of the tune, a screenshot doesnt give much of a idea of what is set up. I would guess it is probably the launch limiter settings are not appropriate, maybe start cut too high with a long decay rate or similar.

You should ideally yes, but I doubt it will prevent it from working at all. Can you attach a copy of your PDM config. Is it a Link keypad?

Yes, just 12V and gnd to the red/black flying leads on the CAN JST is all you need. They are 0.5mm2 FLRY so good for about 6A, the CAN lambda will only pull about 1-1.5A under most conditions.

Correct, you only need enough ground pins connected to cover the max current with adequate voltage drop and heat. High impedance injectors are usually less than 1A each so its usually Auxes, DBW and Lambda that are the bigger considerations.

Also in your screenshot, AN Volt 7,9,10,11 are showing voltage but nothing assigned? When you say "AN Temp pins are empty", do you mean you have completely removed the wires from the ECU plug? What voltage do you measure on the pins with nothing connected?