Adamw

Its a trigger error. If the ecu receives a trigger signal that doesnt match the expected pattern then it has no idea of crank position, so it cuts all fuel and spark, sets RPM to zero, and then attempts to resync. Effectively the engine has been stopped and restarted. Attach the log, a copy of the tune, and a trigger scope will be the best place to start.

Provided both sensors have spring loaded centre hubs to take up any backlash you would think they should work ok. Some TPS sensors dont have the sprung hub so if that's the case you may be able to solve any backlash by dropping a blob of RTV in each hub before assembly. Otherwise for a dual track sensor, the variohm ones are easy to find and one of the more affordable. Example: https://www.efihardware.com/products/3150/dbw-contactless-throttle-position-sensor-variohm Or there are many OEM "cable position" type dual track pedal sensors that you could pick up from a junk yard. Honda, Merc and VW from the early 2000's are the main ones I have seen. Honda example: https://www.efihardware.com/products/3297/honda-dbw-accelerator-pedal-sensor

The Evo doesnt even have CAN bus so the above is irrelevant. The manual for your ecumaster device shows how to wire them with ABS still working on page 23.

I dont quite understand what you are saying about Aux 3 hear, but if its status says inactive then the ECU has disabled the throttle on purpose. Probably because of what you mentioned about the APS main not working correctly.

What does the connection speed and redraw rate at the top right of your screen show? These two: Can you do a short PC log with the engine running and attach here.

6% "AP". So 1 sensor is reporting say 12% AP, the other would have to be reporting 18% AP. It would be pretty unusual to have two seperate pedal sensors? You would probably be better to replace with a "dual track" sensor if there are in fact 2 seperate sensors.

The error accumulator increments faster depending on how much error above the 6% you are. Once you are under the 6% error it counts back down towards 0. So, this allows you to have significant error for a short amount of time or less error for a longer amount of time. When the hardware is ok, the accumulator should almost always sit at zero with only very brief spikes occasionally during abrupt transients etc. Log the raw voltages, APS sub and main, 5V, battery voltage, and the error accumulators to see what is going on and the likely cause. I would be very cautious driving it and do not turn off the safeties.

The injector duty cycle fault would have occurred when you run out of gas, the ecu would have increased injector PW as the fuel pressure dropped trying to keep AFR on target. If you clear it it should disappear. You have a fault showing on AN Volt 3, 5, 6 & 8 in the log also. I dont see anything relevant to a misfire in your log but there are some tune issues to sort out: VVT hasn't been calibrated, not working at all. Accel fuel deadband is too low, you have accel fuel dumping in the whole time, which means your fuel tune would be messed up from that. Your ethanol temp is reading 200°C, likely due to DI4 edge set wrong, this would have also messed up the fuel tune. IAT trim should be off in modelled mode. Your SPWA is adding 0.2 or more ms at PW from 0.5-1.0, that is 20-40% extra fuel?

If it says "not available" that would be because you haven't logged in.

Do you have a copy of the map that was running the car at the time these logs were taken? There are quite a few things I noticed in these logs that show different values than are set in the map so its hard to suggest changes when we dont know what settings were used. Im a little suspicious of the tuner with the issues you raise as it appears a lot of them are related to really basic tuning fundamentals. Anyhow, a couple of comments to think about in the meantime: You have both IAT trim and charge temp approximation enabled, it should only be one or the other. This will be the cause of some of the enleanment when hot. Disabling either one now is going to affect the tune quite a bit so its going to need some re-tuning. The charge temp table looks too biased towards coolant temp in my experience so I personally would copy the charge temp table out of our V11 base map as a better starting point and turn off the IAT trim. The hesitation during acceleration is most likely accel fuel related. However, the log shows there was no accel enrichment working at all whereas the map shows some extremely excessive accel enrichment set-up, so it seems someone has since changed that. Im not sure I trust the lambda reading, it could be a vacuum or exhaust leak as Remski suggested, a dying sensor, or possibly a wiring issue, but its sitting pegged at 4.5V a lot of the time so the AEM device is measuring it even "leaner" than it shows in the log. There arent too many engines that would even run leaner than 1.25lambda so that doesnt seem to be reporting reality. Is the MAP sensor really a Link 3Bar? There is no cold start log to verify the "extremely rich cold start and week idle", but the main things that look out of place here is the precrank prime is about twice as long as I normally see for a 1000cc injector, the post start hold is about 5X longer than normal, and post start decay is about 2X longer than normal. The bucking is likely coming from the over-run fuel cut ramp in/out being too abrupt. I would usually have more retard (15-20deg), and about 1-1.5s torque reduction/introduction time. You also need to be mindful of the ign table cells that are being referenced as you typically enter and leave ORFC. Secondly, you have idle control speed lockout set to 25kmh so you may have idle ign kicking in/out when not expected in some situations. The idle dip is due to either the dashpot settings or base position, but again the log shows different values for both than what is currently set in the map so we really need a log and map that match to make a suggestion. You are on old firmware also, so it would pay to update to the latest to get all the improvements that have been made in the last couple of years. Download the latest G5 software and use that to do the update.

Most likely one of the throttle position sensors is failing. These are not replaceable they come as part of the complete throttle body. You can see in the log below where TPS sub (cyan) does a sudden step at 3:44 while the TPS main is showing a flat line, both sensors are connected to the same shaft so that should always show near identical values. The ECU only allows a few percent error between the two as it has no way to know which one is right.

The knock control doesnt have any cylinder tables assigned. There is a trigger error but not too many clues as to the reason. I would start by doing a trigger scope at about 4000rpm to see if that shows any issues. If nothing is obvious in the scope, then since the error occurs at max boost around peak torque I would say it is likely related to noise from the ignition system getting in somewhere.

We cant see how you have it set up from your picture, but I suspect you have it scaled wrong. G4+ had hard-coded multipliers and offsets on many parameters, whereas G4X transmits at 1:1 unless specified. For CL Lambda fuel correction G4+ was using a multiplier of 10 and an offset of 1000, so entering these in G4X should make the output the same.

Your file link is restricted, go back into its sharing settings and change the option to something like "anyone with link can edit"

The reed switch should work fine if it is working as it should be. If the signal from the reed switch is not usable, then there is likely either something wrong with it or possibly the cable that is driving it. I have fixed a GTR that had an erratic speed signal from the reed switch in the past by just replacing the reed switch, I assume they just wear with age, when you consider the common speed signal of "4000 pulses per mile", that little reed switch bends backwards and forwards a lot in 30years... The post you linked about the BWM sensors is specific to modern "Active" or magnetoresistive sensors which are designed to be interfaced with a dedicated conditioning chipset, they output a current signal rather than voltage so that is why they are difficult to make work with conventional after-market ecu voltage based inputs. Common hall or VR sensors speed sensors from older cars can just be connected directly and will work with nothing special required.

Go to >Analog inputs>Lambda 1 and set the control to Link CAN. . For the dash errors, can you try changing the CAN2 mode to the WRX07-11 key start mode, then power cycle ignition after storing.

What Im saying is the link ecu is just a native serial device, there is no driver used or needed and the laptop will never recognise if a serial ecu is connected or not. All the ecu needs to communicate with PC Link is a working Com port. Your USB to serial adapter should create a Com port in windows device manager, so if you dont see a Com port in the device manager when you plug in your USB to serial device then this is your problem. I would still expect however even if you didnt have the correct drivers, when you plugged in the USB adapter you would see an "Unknown device" in windows device manager with a yellow exclamation mark beside it. This adapter is not a Link product, you will need to find the manufacturer of the USB to serial adapter and get installation support including the windows 11 drivers from them. If you cant find the manufacturer, or they dont offer win11 drivers then you could try some generic ones, they may or may not work depending on if the manufacturer has programmed a custom vendor ID into it. The vast majority of USB-to-serial adapters use 1 of 2 common chipsets internally, those being the prolific PL23** or the FTDI FT232. Generic prolific drivers here: https://www.prolific.com.tw/US/ShowProduct.aspx?p_id=225&pcid=41 Generic FTDI drivers here: https://ftdichip.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/CDM212364_Setup.zip

The LinkPlus doesnt even have USB. You should have a serial link device connected to the ecu with a ribbon cable, then the laptop connects to the serial port on that box. How are you connecting the laptop to the seriallink?

Yes that would work as you describe.

It's not unusual to get the odd trigger error when starting to crank or when stopping so I wouldnt be too concerned about that yet. But your TPS signal is definitely not working, it looks more like a wiring issue than a sensor issue however. The only time you get any change in the TPS voltage is just as the starter stops cranking. Possibly it is pinned wrong or the ground is connected to something it shouldn't be. Start by confirming there is 5V and ground at the sensor and you have a nice linear voltage coming out when the throttle is moved.

Yes, the current one on our website is effectively the same as the old gold one and will work with a G4. The new one doesnt have the status LED and 2 wire colours have changed slightly, White/green is now just green and the white/brown is now just brown.

Yeah, typically this will be a backfeed from something connected to an Aux output with a permanent 12V feed rather than an ign switched supply. Most likely this will be something non-factory that has been added like a boost solenoid, fuel pump or fan relay etc. I dont remember any factory non-compatible wiring in any models this ecu fits.

He means if the default settings of the ECU master device may be suitable without having to reconfigure it with the USB to CAN device. I had a quick look and it probably would have worked with the default settings with some fudging at the Link end to scale the speed correctly. But there are a couple of default settings that possibly arent ideal such as the arming threshold is 1.5V so you will get a better result with the USB device.

Bottom of my post here shows those. It came from one of the EV forums, some models require these dummy messages to start up the steering pump. The rally car I done came to me without an OEM ecu so I couldn't sniff anything myself, but it did need these.

To make it clear, no resistor needed, connect direct to ecu ign output.