Adamw

Before you get too deep into setting it up, could you unplug the 4pin square plug on the throttle body, connect up a laptop, press the throttle pedal to the floor and report what voltages show on AN 3 and AN 6 in the runtimes screen. Its possible that someone has fitted one of the "DBW delete" kits in place of the internal linkage. We should be able to tell from what voltage is reported on AN 6 when the pedal is on the floor.

That map has the trigger mode set to Evo 1-6 so that's not going to work with the Kiggly 12T. But I dont think that was the case when you done the log. But yes, the ignition output signal is definitely not right, I didnt get thats what you were talking about earlier with "trigger waveform". That looks very much like your coils are pinned wrong and the ignition drive is connected to the high current primary, rather than the trigger wire. There are lots of very poor-quality fake 90919-02240 coils around too, so that could be another possibility. Just to confirm; Looking into the coil housing, pinout should be Left = Pin 1 = Ground, Pin 2 = ECU ign output, 3 = not connected, 4 = +12V.

Looking at your pic, that looks like possibly they have the E plug wires inserted into the A plug housing? The plugs are very similar 31P housings, just a different keyway on the bottom, so possibly easy to mix up. Your A plug looks like it has no wires in the middle row A10-A21, but many of these are essential pins so I dont think they would normally be left out on purpose. A10 & 11 are the main sensor grounds, A15 is TPS, A18 is speed, A20 & 21 is the 5V supply... Hopefully it hasn't fried anything.

No wiring needed, just move the label, source, and cal setting from GP Temp 1 to GP Analog *

Attach a new log showing the idle problem and attach a copy of the revised tune. The VVT issue may or may not be calibration, that's why I asked for a trigger scope when the fault is occurring to see if that gives any clues.

In The ecu I turned off the 2nd CAN lambda stream, I changed the fan 1 output to virtual aux 1. GP output 5 then activates CAN Aux 1 (Fan request to PDM) when virtual aux 1 or keypad button 1 (fan override) is true. I turned off the multiple functions you had assigned to CAN DI 1 & 2. In the PDM I just turned off the keypad message and setup, everything else should work as is. rx8 setup 1.1.pdmc Xtreme Rx8 ECU Ethrottle cal6.1.pclx

What ecu is it? A VR4 or Evo? Can you attach a copy of the tune and the scope file. It appears to be a trigger issue from the look of the dwell trace. I would also suggest you download the latest G4+ PC Link and install that and update your firmware. You are currently using 5.6.4 firmware which is ~7 years old and 5.6.5 software. The latest G4+ software and firmware version is 5.6.8.

Wifi functionality I believe is still being worked on, but not too far away.

So have you checked base timing with a timing light? Have you tried changing the offset by 360?

Yeah, what dx4picco mentions is your only option with no air bypass. Quite often you still wont be able to get enough torque increase without extra air to overcome all the extra parasitic drag of cold oil etc though. Set the idle ign control table to 3D with ECT Vs idle target error. Have the throttle stop set such that you have about 0 to -5deg ign advance to achieve the target idle speed when warmed up. Then from there see if you can maintain cold idle by adding advance alone.

You've got the keypad set up in the ecu, and half set up in the PDM, it should only be set up in one or the other. Is it going to be controlling more PDM related stuff or more ECU stuff?

So could you not move whatever is on GP Temp 1 to the GP analog instead, so you have 4 of the same input types for the EGT's? Otherwise a mathblock could be used to specify the number of decimal places.

The inputs are very flexible. When used as digital inputs they can switch to ground, 5V or 12V and have a internal pull-up that can be enabled. When used as analog inputs they have a variable gain amplifier so can be set to measure 0-50mV for EGT's etc, 0-500mv, 0-5V, or 0-12V. This doc should explain most of what you will need for dash indicator type signals: https://www.aim-sportline.com/download/faqs/eng/hardware/sensors/mx_series/FAQ_Sensors_MXx12_StradaSpieIcone_100_eng.pdf

It depends on the specific model, but in most cases the factory ecu housing is reused so that must be modified by the user to pass the tuning cable and any expansions through. Generally it is only a matter of drilling a hole and fitting a grommet.

Your idle base position is about 1% too far open, subtract 1% from the whole table will likely solve the rev hang. Your idle actuator integral gain is way too high for E-throttle, you have 0.2 in the old map and 0.5 in the new, normal is around 0.05. Your bank 2 intake cam isn't working and is counting up errors for the first few minutes, keep an eye on that especially after start up and if you see it again then please do a trigger scope. Whatever is causing the VVT error could also cause a mis-sync which might explain the difficult starting.

It should work out of the box with no changes to configuration or wiring. To help troubleshoot your wiring, the power supply circuit works like this: The ignition switch signal is pin E9, you should have +12V on this pin when the ignition switch is in ON and Start positions. When pin E9 has =12V, the ECU will connect pin E7 to ground, this pin controls the main EFI relay. You should see 12V on this pin when the ignition is off and ground when the ignition is on. When E7 is grounded the main efi relay will engage and supply the main 12V to pins A2 and A3. Confirm you have 12V on these pins when E7 is grounded. Of course, you need grounds as well - so check A4 & A5 have good continuity to ground.

The Haltech WB1/2 already outputs the Link CAN lambda stream by default in parallel to their own, so just set the ecu to Link CAN lambda on ID950 and both lambdas should work out of the box with no custom setup needed. I dont think they broadcast all statuses but I remember seeing them read at least a couple of the important ones.

Yes, I think a GDB would fall under what we refer to as "V7" sti. Check your existing ecu has the 5 plug connector, assuming so, this would be the ecu for your car: https://dealers.linkecu.com/WRX9X_2

I'll add some comments that are possibly something to consider... Bearing in mind I've never done a BMW DCT using the stock mechatronics so they may be a little more flexible, but my experience with a VW DSG gearbox using the stock mechatronics and Maxx ecu was pretty disappointing. I think I would only do it with a proper aftermarket GCU that replaces the mechatronics if I was ever asked to do one again. The problem with the stock mechatronics is all the hard coded clutch pressures, bite points, take up rate etc is all based on the original chassis, engine inertia, and characteristics like normal idle speed, torque curve etc, and there is only so much you can do by "faking" the engine CAN signals. I put the DSG into an early Mk1 golf for a friend and spent probably 3 months of my weekends trying to get it to work how he wanted. I must have reflashed the TCU a hundred times or more getting it to take off smoothly hot and cold with different amounts of throttle etc, we eventually got that bit almost ok, but never got a nice consistent, fast shift with minimal slip etc. I've heard of a couple of similar experiences with the BMW DCT but no direct experience. From what I've seen, bypassing the stock mechatronics is not a job for the faint-hearted either.

The red light goes off when it is fully charged so it may just not be used enough to re-initiate charging. It is also possible that it has developed a fault. Try leaving it on for a few hours to see if it then starts charging. I dont even know how long the battery lasts for, but I probably do 3 or 4 full days sometimes without charging.

Attach a copy of your tune and I will set that up.

What ecu do you have? A wire-in or an HC20X plug-in?

Yes that should do it.

Ignition power, dash lights and starter motor have nothing to do with the ecu, they are all powered direct from the ignition switch. All of it would still work even without the ecu plugged in (except the CE light which is grounded by the ecu). If you have no starter motor then your main power supply is missing.

You can see in the last pic at 2:05 and 2:10 the ecu is sending 90% DC to the motor but the TP is sitting stationary at 10% which is about where the spring balance point is. So - the motor is making no torque, that could be a bad connection in the wiring somewhere or something like the brushes losing contact with the commutator. I have seen vibration cause the brushes to resonate and high RPM on some engines which causes the throttle to partially close, but yours occurs at relatively low RPM so I dont think it is a vibration issue. It could be temperature related - causing the brush springs to go weak but I think it would need to be pretty extreme. Does aux 9/10 supply show close to full battery voltage in the log?