Jump to content

Adamw

Moderators
  • Posts

    21,154
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1,375

Everything posted by Adamw

  1. The log shows RPM and dwell so the ecu is commanding a spark. Are you sure there is no spark? How are you checking? Do you get a spark if you use the ign test mode? Do you have 12V at the coil when cranking?
  2. Map attached for similar engine. What trouble are you having with setting the base timing? G4+ Atom 4AGE 16V Stock NA.pclr
  3. No, it would be best to leave the PDU only controlling the keypad and use the CAN export function to send the button statuses to the ecu.
  4. I dont see anything ecu related in the logs, dwell and engine speed runtimes are about as stable as they get with a distributor trigger so the ecu appears to be happy with that. You generally dont need a dyno to confirm timing drift - it is usually purely RPM based, load has no effect on triggering so the first thing I would do is lock timing and confirm there is actually timing drift by holding it steady at a range of different RPM's. I would expect you would get edges crossing at some point and a big trigger error if one of the sensors was wired incorrect polarity, but a couple of trigger scopes at idle would be a good idea too. Your fuel table and inj PW peak at 4700 and drop about 10% by to redline so some of it is airflow related, but 10% doesnt seem extraordinary considering stock manifold etc.
  5. No, although this thread is titled "altering high level tacho to accept low level signal", if you read into it a bit, he actually has a low level aftermarket tacho. He only needed to add a pull-up resistor because this is an old G3 ecu which didnt have internal pull-up resistors. This will not drive a high level tacho which require about a 100V kick from the ignition coil to trigger. Some tachos can be modified or my suggestion would be to use a "tacho booster" or "tach adapter" which are small boxes with an inductive coil inside to generate the high voltage signal. Probably the cheapest option in NZ is this: https://www.rewiresnz.com/products/haltech-tacho-output-adaptor
  6. Your coolant temp sensor isn't working, its reading -40°C so that's why you have the really large inj PW. But otherwise I suspect it is probably just your offset now.
  7. Can you attach the tune. Stream 1 on ID 50 is meant to contain Ethanol content and temp, boost target and knock level/count, so putting any random data in there is not going to work.
  8. Please attach a new log and your current tune.
  9. Yeah, please use the current firmware 5.6.8, 5.4.1 is from like 8 years ago so I certainly dont know much about it. Your symptoms suggest it is leaner and there are certainly many fuel equation changes between 5.1 and 5.4. You can downgrade to 5.1 to do a comparison log also if you wish.
  10. To do it via CAN you would have to wire CAN 1 & 2 together, send it out on one to receive on the other. You could simplify your logic a little, something like this would do it:
  11. Adamw

    rb26 dbw

    It doesnt, it will need to have some wire links added to make onboard E-throttle available.
  12. I plucked some numbers out of your log and put them into a spreadsheet I occasionally use to validate fundamentals. The bit down the bottom uses PV=nRT to approximate air and fuel mass flow from VE. So assuming a typical VE of about 60% at your small throttle opening, I had to input an injector flow rate of 245cc/min to get a similar PW to what your log shows at the same RPM/MAP/Temp.
  13. I would say your injectors are <300cc/min based on those logs.
  14. Can you try changing the fuel pump speed control active state to high, and if that doesnt change anything try changing GP Output 1 active state to high.
  15. By the looks of your base position table it is working in reverse, you should have larger numbers when cold. To confirm that, with the engine idling, increase the base position to see if the RPM increases or decreases - it should increase with larger values if set correctly. If it doesnt then change the stepper motor type to unipolar forward. After confirming the direction is correct for the next cold start I would change the settings in orange below, set the whole base position table to 50%, do a store, power cycle the ignition, reconnect PC Link, start a PC log, then start the engine and log the full warm up cycle. Post that log and we can build the base pos table based on that.
  16. Wire it to CAN H/L, set ecu to transmit dash2pro on ID1000. Set up realdash as per the instructions here: https://realdash.net/manuals/supported_can_lin_analyzers.php choosing the Link short CAN description file.
  17. No there is no specific reason for that, likely it just ended up that way based on the map I started with. Where I live (and where I tuned that car) is quite stable baro and very little altitude change so either load option would work just as well for me. But if you have significant altitude change where you drive then you may see a small improvement in fuel control if you change the main fuel table to MGP. BAP is nearly always 99-100Kpa here so you should be able to change to MGP and just subtract 100 from the existing axis values without messing anything up.
  18. If you have an idle valve then the suggested strategy is to set the equation load source to MAP, use TPS as the load axis on the fuel, ign and lambda target tables. This would be Alpha-N + MAP compensation. The MAP compensation will then just happen in the background with no user set up/tuning required, the MAP is needed to compensate for any air going through the idle valve bypassing the throttles. If there is no idle valve then the suggested strategy would be to set the equation load source to BAP, with TPS as the load axis on the fuel, ign and lambda target tables. This would be Alpha-N + Baro compensation. This will give more stable AFR at idle and light loads than using MAP, but can only be used when there is no idle valve. You do not need a MAP sensor connected for this application as the ECU has a baro sensor built-in. There should only be a check valve between the manifold and brake booster (if there is a booster), definitely not between the vac manifold and engine.
  19. Contact [email protected] to arrange to get it back for inspection.
  20. I got an ID wrong sorry. Change the keypad counts channel ID to 502 in the PDM.
  21. Huh? Isnt that what you just removed (well 1.5K?) can you confirm what the circuit you have looks like now?
  22. The g4 storm based plug-in ecu's only had 4 ignition drives. So what problem do you currently have?
  23. You are posting in the G4 section, do you have an old G4 ecu? The G4 didnt have a customisable CAN output, only a fixed stream.
  24. You are sending DI 1 status in that file, not ethanol content. Try this: 11-09-23 nickr32a.pcl
  25. Ok a basic example is attached. Fuel pump and 2 fans set up in ecu as virtual aux 1/2/3. These will be received into the PDM as CAN function 1/2/3. Keypad buttons 3 (map switch) & 4 (launch arm) are received into the ECU as CAN DI 3 & 4. I have set these up in the ecu map to enable the 2nd boost table and launch control. Button 5 is set up as a 4 position switch, this will be received into the ecu as CAN AN V5, I have put this on the 2nd boost table axis to adjust through 4 different boost levels. Obviously unlikely to need the 2 boost tables and 4 different levels but these are just examples so you can see different possibilities. mazda w PDM.pclr ASM example.pdmc
×
×
  • Create New...