Adamw

You need to turn off eccs sync if you have already completed the sync test, and your MAP sensor is reading wrong. Your BAP is reading 97kpa while the MAP is showing 50Kpa, these should both show the same value when the engine isn't running.

You can use Virtualhere USB server on an android phone (ecu tuning cable plugs into phone USB port) but it is possibly a bit slow, The only time I have used it I had about 10Hz refresh rate in PC Link, not really adequate for tuning. That was with an old Samsung S5 that I had sitting around though, and I think from memory we only had 3g at that track too, so possibly a better phone with 4G would give better performance. A friend uses an intel NUC with a 4g dongle with remote desktop in an endurance car to monitor things, it works well. Not a great video but you can see its quite responsive here: https://fb.watch/mLwQcWQReQ/

There is no fuel pump even set up in the map you attached. If you have no spark while cranking then that would usually indicate a trigger issue - the ecu is not receiving an engine position signal it understands. Start with a trigger scope. To do this, go to >ecu controls>trigger scope. Start cranking the engine, and click the capture button on the trigger scope screen while it is cranking. Keep it cranking for a couple of seconds further after clicking capture. Then click the save button and attach a copy of that file here.

I dont think yours will be the same problem as the OP, his wouldnt even run. The more common cause if they play up at high RPM is the optical sensor is getting slow (not sure if its due to electronics age or the lens optics etc) so at high RPM some of the trigger 1 edges cross over trig 2 sync points. The easiest fix for that is to fit one of the 24 slot aftermarket CAS discs.

https://youtu.be/cWkLgkqMVfY?feature=shared

This is a G1 44S "PossumLink". It would be for a V7 sti with TGV. These ecu's didnt have capability of controlling the AVCS. I *think* it should be laptop tunable. You will find a manual for it in the "G1 Manuals" topic pinned to the top of the G1 section.

Most likely your accel fuel settings, but you have not given any info so that is just a guess. If you attach the actual log file and a copy of the tune, and some info about the car/engine/injectors etc, then we will likely be able to offer better help.

Are both vvt cams following target well when you have the larger bank to bank lambda variation? I've never personally needed 3D accel cold correction for flex fuel, but it doesnt get particularly cold where I live either.

Unfortunately that ECU doesnt have the knock input connected, it would need to be modified with a wire link added to make it accessible.

So if im following you correctly, you now have a new wire running direct from the TPS to pin 39 on the diff ecu? What voltages do you have at pin 39 with the throttle open and closed?

What is a AEM methanol unit?

Yes, you can check timing while cranking.

You should receive an automated email shortly with all the details.

Everything looks happy in that log. Your master fuel setting is possibly still a bit on the small side for 650cc injectors, but there should be enough fuel to give some signs of life as it is now. Have you checked base timing?

Sorry, you just jogged my memory. It seems you were given the wrong info sorry, we can still do a bottom board swap. Let me know what country you are in and confirm whether it is in fact a WRX6 or WRX9 and I will set up a service ticket for you with some info on the process and cost etc.

Can you clarify this statement, or attach a copy of tune. Does both the fuel and oil press display correctly in the Link software? In the dash config, make sure it is showing V2.00.07, if not click on change ecu and just select the same Link CAN BUS Base ecu again and it will overwrite it with the latest. Actually, even if it does already show V2.00.07 in your config, I would do the "change ecu" as above anyhow, I have seen that fix some odd behaviour before.

Yes im not surprised dumping in 110% extra fuel for a small throttle movement stalls it. Yes, fuel trims are % adders.

You could also do like below. Then your activation temp, hysteresis and "on with AC" is all taken care of by the normal engine fan settings.

I have moved your post into its own thread in the G4+ section as it wasn't relevant to the thread your were posting in. You really need to start by giving a bit more info about your specific case. What engine, what triggers, what ecu, what ignition system. Does the trigger error always occur at 6000RPM regardless of load, or only high load?

That doesnt appear to be the map that was in it when that last log was produced. Many of the settings in it dont match what is recorded in the log. Its pretty hard to advice adjustments when we dont know what settings gave us the data we are using to determine those adjustments.

There is very little info on how it actually works, but it acts more like a predicted "distance to empty" gauge rather than just a fuel level gauge. It seems like it "calibrates" when the fuel level passes certain thresholds - so it always reads full after you fill up and always reads empty when it is near empty, but for a lot of the range in between those points it uses fuel mass flow and speed/distance to display how much range you have left.

It was a few years ago so it may actually have been a box B that I tested, I cant really remember. If you want box B to show Cyl 5-8 then just swap the ID's that you have set on receive stream 1/2.

Yes you need to use modelled mode for the fuel gauge to work properly. The fuel mass per cylinder needs to be transmitted so modelled mode is needed for the ecu to have enough info to calculate fuel mass. However, this wont prevent the fuel gauge from working at all, it will just move in odd increments, something like a 1/4 tank at a time. So if yours is reading full all the time and you've used more than a 1/4 of a tank then I would say that the tune isn't your issue.

Can you attach a copy of your map. Your trigger error occur when the battery voltage drops below 6V so that probably wont be an issue when your battery has more charge in it. Your log shows no fuel being injected so you have the fuel mode set to off most likely. Have you set base timing? If not, try your offset at around -90 as a starting point.

Yes you can do dual bank closed loop lambda.