Adamw

Here is what I see with your map "Metz-e36 GJP CAN test1.pclx" from above loaded into an ecu on the bench:

Whats the crank sensor off? Do you have a part number or anything?

Any ground is fine for the shield.

The CAN set up I done is just based on their "defaults" listed here: http://manual.turbolamik.eu/READ.html and http://manual.turbolamik.eu/SEND.html I just took a quick look in their software now, to make that work I assume you will need to set the "Can2A Type CAR" to #6. It is not clear if you need to set the matching ID's in their software or if it uses the defaults, but I would set the "Read custom ECU ID" to 1536, and the "Send ID" to 1601. Also make sure the "Can2 Speed" matches what you have set in the ecu (usually 500K if you have an OEM shifter connected). In your ECU CAN set up, make sure you have the format set to normal (it is set to extended in your pic above).

My understanding is configurable axes breakpoints are resource hungry in terms of RAM use and processing load as the interpolation math is complex. Fixed, equally spaced breakpoints can be done more efficiently. So generally user configurable axes on these basic correction tables is not a wise use of resources, but I suspect it could be possible to extend the span of these tables to cover a higher temperature range somehow but using fixed breakpoints. I will add a task to the development system for the firmware guys to investigate. There are often many other considerations that have to be made with system wide changes like this as it can cause havoc later with backwards compatibility etc, every single user has to populate these new table cells when they do a firmware update etc, tables dont populate correctly if you load an old map into a newer firmware and things like that.

That video is not relevant, it only applies to devices with hardwired terminating resistors, the dash (and some of our ecu's) have software-controlled terminating resistors, so when you turn off power the resistor is disconnected. A lack of resistor wouldnt prevent the CAN lambdas from being detected either, they work fine with just the ecu termination. So if the lambdas started communicating only after you disconnected the dash, it would suggest the dash was wired wrong.

Yeah, need to see a log, there should be no need to change the TPS cal with throttle kicker or group N style antilag.

Files attached. The .xc1 file is the CAN template you can import into RS3 if you want to change anything in future. Note you also shouldn't have two CAN channels set to "Link Razor PDM" in the ecu, all PDM's should communicate on the same channel. Civic Race Dash.zconfig LINK_AlexUMC_@20230822_220303_004138.xc1 CivicG4XPreMeppen new CAN.pclx

A couple of other comments, not all related to your issue but something to consider The fuel and oil pressure calibration values should be entered in Kpa (i.e. change the output units to kpa and enter 517kpa instead of 75psi for example). It will then read currently on screen in both unit systems and will be correct for any other tables and functions using these runtimes. At the moment you arent using fuel pressure in the fuel calculation so it is not affecting the tune, but the ecu currently thinks your fuel pressure is 44kpa instead of 44psi. Your ethanol content sensor shows 26% ethanol, not the 85% you mentioned in your post. If you want to do flex fuel with variable eth content then you really want to start your tuning on an unblinded fuel first, then change to multi-fuel mode and tune the 2nd fuel later. You have 2 analog inputs set up as ECT, this will not work correctly. If you have 2 coolant temp sensors, set up one as a GP temp. Most likely you will need to change your trigger mode to "LS2/LS7 90 offset", which is by far the most common one. (There are 2 variations of the position of the cam teeth).

There is a closed loop boost control setup guide in the help file that goes through each step of setup, I suggest you follow that as your boost control setup is a complete mess. Turn off the 2 tables, then follow the guide to get a basic starting point set up, get it tuned and controlling well on a single table first before you go adding complication of multiple tables and different fuels. You should not have 90%DC in your wastgate DC table, set it up per the example in the guide, it should not even be using the wastegate DC table until stage 2 is reached. You also should not have any values in your target table lower than what the wastegate spring is capable of acheiving - with values of 0-100kpa in the target table you are going to jump straight to stage 3 as soon as the activation conditions are met, completely missing the most important stage 1 & 2.

Which tooth you leave doesnt matter. All the ecu needs to see is a single tooth per cam rev, it doesnt care where.

You have possibly fried them with it set to rising. Set it to falling and confirm you still have a spark on each coil using test mode.

Your first scope has a patch in the middle where you stopped cranking, and for the second one you have clicked the capture button before you started cranking rather than clicking when it was cranking. But from the little bits you have captured it looks ok. One issue in your map is you have the spark edge set to rising, it should be falling. This could have potentially fried the coil or ignitor so, change that setting to falling, then confirm you have a spark in test mode.

The rest sounds correct. You could possibly get the NZ Wiring cam trigger to work as a sync by grinding off all teeth except 1 if you already own it.

Correct, that isnt going to work. What do you have for a sensor? Does the wheel run true and have a consistent airgap for the whole crank rev? Is the sensor centred over the width of the wheel? Can you attach a pic of the wheel design.

Make sure your spark edge is set to falling, you have it set to rising in the map attached above.

Crank is correct, cam is still inverted. There should definitely be a spark though as the scope shows the ecu has synced, even with the cam inverted. So you possibly have some other setting issue such as the immobiliser or ign switch signal. Please attach a PC log of it cranking and a copy of your tune. To clarify: You still have an issue with your cam sensor wiring that needs fixing, but that is currently not the cause for no spark.

The wire colours dont mean anything, you need to go off the labels beside the connector.

No, now the crank signal has flipped, cam is still the same.

Pre crank prime is nothing to do with the fuel pump prime. Pre-crank prime is the injectors giving a squirt either at key-on or in start position. Fuel pump prime will happen regardless based on your fuel pump settings. You are taking comments out of context. There is no 5 sec start up timer. The original poster had an oil pressure safety limiter setup that would cut fuel when oil pressure was low. Pre-crank prime is an injector pulse width in milliseconds. The rest are percentage increase over base fuel. That will vary depending on what fuel equation and equation load source you are using, but yes, the fuel table is used to look up air flow or fuel flow for a specific RPM and load. For the most common basic fuel set up using traditional fuel equation and MAP load source the base fuel calculation would be something like: Inj PW = Fuel table value x (MAP/100) x master fuel value x (1/lambda target) + ECT & IAT trims.

I just tried, it works for me. Do you have the stream "turbolamik receive stream ID1602" loaded into user stream 1? Attach your tune if you want me to take a look.

Everything connected to a bus must run at the same bit rate. If your keypad is set for 500K, then set everything else to 500K.

Doesnt matter in terms of the ecu or CAN bus, but I have no idea if the trans is ok or not without it.

This scope has revealed a further wiring issue, which I will cover next, but the scope shows the ecu is happy with the trigger signal and would be commanding a spark. The new issue is when you reversed the crank sensor wiring, we see in the scope that your cam signal has also reversed. You can also see cross talk from the crank sensor on the cam signal. This means somehow you have the cam sensor wired in series with the crank sensor. Most likely you have the pinout on one or both of them wrong. Cam sensor pinout viewed looking into connector, Out=trig 2, Gnd= Sensor ground, S=Shield: Crank pinout:

Connect timing light to #1 lead, turn on individual cyl ign trim to single mode and put 20deg retard on cyl 1, if your timing mark moves your offset is correct.