Adamw

Ok, I have attached a fixed config. The problem with your one is it was an empty config from an early software version, ie it contained settings only, but no awareness of hardware. Recent software has been changed so I dont think this trap exists anymore. The most recent software is 1.6.99, so confirm you have that on your PC. Make sure PDM firmware is up to date and this one should load correctly. You may get some errors after loading that multiple functions are connected to a pin, you can ignore these. Oat DCV fixed.pdmc

Ok, some examples set up in your configs. The ECU is sending Virtual Aux 1-7 and coolant temp to the PMU. Fuel pump and fan request are included in these. The PMU is sending 3 keypad button states to the ECU, these are received as CAN Dig 1-3. G4+ cant send PWM output signals via CAN so we cant do the PWM fan directly. The ECUmaster PMU generally cant PWM a fan anyhow. But just incase you wanted to do PWM fan, I have sent ECT to the PDU so you can do a PWM table at that end. last V2.pclr charles sa14 CAN from ECU V2.pmu

The LED going out suggests you still have a power supply issue somewhere. I would temporarily ground pin 16 with a jumper wire and then check if the LED stays on while cranking then. This will tell us whether the problem is on the ignition switch circuit or the ECCS circuit. Even though it is only dropping out for a very short time when battery voltage is lowest, we really need to get that solved first so the PC stays connected so we can do a log and see live data. By the looks of your tacho during cranking I would say there is possibly a trigger setup issue but lets figure out the dropout first.

Really need the log or tune, something would have to be set up quite wrong for a typical rally car engine to be able to overshoot the limiter. One important factor is make sure it is using ignition cut rather than fuel, since fuel is injected on the previous cycle and is already sitting in the port, you still get full torque for a further engine cycle after cut initiation.

Moved to the G4+ section since this is a G4+ ecu. What ecu CAN port is the PMU connected to?

The find devices tool is only used for programming certain CAN accessories, the dash is not expected to be found by this tool, only the CAN lambdas should be found. Can you confirm this at the DTM plug that connects to the CAN lambda.

You dont need to connect PC Link, go straight to the firmware update tool and run the update.

Correct, 0 when in any driving gear and 1 when in park or N. The idle base position will be increased by the park/neutral step when park/neutral status is 0. Hardwired or CAN for this input is fine.

You have to set offsets on every engine as the cams are never in exactly the same position. You may even need to use user-defined VVT mode on this engine, im not sure how different the cam waveform is to the standard VQ35. There are instructions in the help file explaining how to set up user-defined mode if it is still not happy with vq35 mode.

So is it no longer running a Toyota throttle? Your Park/Neutral status doesnt change at all in your log. Either the HTG is not sending that status or you have not set up the ECU to receive it.

Did you do the cam angle test to set the offsets?

If DI6 is not becoming active when you press the switch then the problem is the AC request from the dash. First of all, make sure the DI 6 pull-up is set to on. Assuming the pull-up is correctly set, then most likely as Vaughan suggested already you are low on gas so your pressure switch is open. The pressure switch is a safety to prevent the AC running with no oil in the system. You can test this but unplugging the pressure sensor and shorting the 2 wires together with a paperclip or similar, then see if the AC turns on/off.

As far as I know the hill start uses the clutch switch, brake pedal switch, hand brake switch and wheel speeds. If you can get a PC log of the issue happening, then those are the first things I would look at to confirm they are doing anything odd. Clutch is DI4, brake pedal DI5, handbrake CAN DI3, and all 4 wheelspeeds.

That error would suggest you have an empty configuration. Did you start with one of the example configurations? Can you attach it?

So is it an old G4 ECU? If you pull the cover off the ecu case does the LED stay on when cranking?

For the neutral/park step to work you will need the gear selector wired to a DI and the DI function needs to be set to neutral/park, otherwise the ecu has no idea when it is in gear. Most of your idle speed control settings look to be in the ballpark, the main thing missing from your idle strategy is idle ignition control. E-throttle is a relatively slow method to adjust torque output, so it doesnt compensate well for abrupt changes in torque requirements. Idle ignition is needed to take care of the fast load changes. Idle ignition RPM lockout works differently to the idle speed control RPM lockout, it is not added to target so needs to be higher. Start with the settings below. You are currently idling with about 17deg advance and when you set up this idle ignition like below it should end up with around 10deg most of the time, this will mean the idle base position will need some adjustments again. I noticed your E-throttle is in setup mode (all safeties are disabled) and there are a few settings that dont look right in E-throttle. Have you calibrated APS and TPS yourself?

It looks like either the new hall sensor is not interpreting the window width well, or the window width on the chopper wheel is wrong. The narrow tooth is wider than it should be, making it difficult for the ecu to distinguish it from the normal teeth. The rising edges should be 90deg apart. The narrow tooth should be 35% duty or 31deg wide. the normal teeth should be 50% duty or 45deg wide. Your narrow tooth is stretched out to about 38deg wide so with a bit of uneven cranking speed etc the ecu cant see a tooth that meets the criteria for the narrow tooth. You can see the trig 1 state at the top is staying at "test narrow tooth" It looks like it is actually mostly the rising edge of the narrow tooth that is wrong, you can see in the pic below the 180/360/540 marks all occur slightly earlier that the rising edges on the wide teeth. That would mean cyl 1 is probably getting a bit more advance that the rest too. You could possibly try trimming a bit off that narrow tooth. We could possibly adjust the code to accept less variation between teeth but when the narrow tooth is 38deg wide and the wide tooth is 45deg wide there is not much room for speed variation etc. In the "Run cold just after start" scope the narrow tooth is 35/36deg wide so there may be some heat related sensor variation.

Yes, the immobiliser lamp will remain lit, this is an encrypted message that only works between a paired factory ecu and immo ecu.

So is the MAP calibration now set up as 0.5V=0psi and 4.5V=60psi?

Do you have any scope captures from when the trigger error is occurring? Preferably from the ecu triggerscope initially as this has the trigger status info that tells us what the engine position processor is doing. In that log the battery voltage is a bit odd with regular steps between 14.6 & 15.2V, was it connected to a charger at the time?

A couple of other things to look at: Turn off the 4D fuel table if you no longer have TGV's. Turn off IAT trim table, air temp is handled as part of the charge temp approximation. Turn off multifuel since you dont have an ethanol sensor set up. Your IAT is reading 82°C, confirm that is reading correct. Make sure your MAP matches BAP at key on, engine off.

I have good data for the Bosch 0280158040 which are a good injector, about 890cc @ 3bar. I haven't yet tested them at other pressures but will do in the near future. They are have a long pintle on them but many suppliers sell them with adapters.

Update to the latest firmware as you are on quite an old one, the Vq35HR trigger mode was only just added in V5.6.6 so the offset may not have been known at that point. The notes I have from the first engine we tested on had the offset at 142. Usually that would get hardcoded into the trigger mode after it was proven but it may not have. So try the offset at 0 and 142 and confirm with a timing light. I dont see any other reason it wont run in the log, you have stable RPM, inj PW, Ign dwell, and no cuts so all vitals are there.

The log shows the ecu has disabled the throttle for safety. Both E-throttle relays are off, there is <1V on Aux 9/10 and Aux 17/20 supply pins, so you should expect to see both throttles sitting near closed on the spring, yet TPS 1 still shows its stuck at 100%. TPS2 looks closer to what I expect to see when powered down but more commonly the natural spring return is about 8%.

There is no latched lauch function in the G4. A couple of alternative options: The speed limiter is similar functionality except that you have to set the speed you want to limit at before the event. You can use 3D launch control with a knob on the dash to adjust the RPM/speed.