Adamw

Id probably start with or V11 map in that case since the throttle and idle control set up will save a big part of the initial setup time. Just change trigger mode to V7-10, turn off VVT, TGV, 4D fuel and anything else not relevant such as MAF, PS switch and cruise control.

Do you mean you have a trigger issue or VVT cam position issue? In the log the trigger looks ok, but the VVT hasn't been calibrated. To calibrate the tooth offsets you need to hold the engine at fast idle above the RPM lockout and set the cam angle test to calibrate, it will turn itself back to off after a few seconds if successful. It looks like possibly the VTEC or VVT is bouncing on and off so unplug those solenoids for now, your GP output 1 & 3 setups dont look right so that will be the easiest way to eliminate those interfering. Change your injection mode to sequential and change the E-throttle frequency to 1000Hz. If you have a trigger error rather than a VVT error then please do a trigger scope and attach here.

The V7/8 or 9 map will do it assuming it is a cable operated throttle, there is very little difference between those 3 maps. And turn off the VVT, the TGV function and the 4D fuel map assuming you no longer have TGV's. The V7-10 trigger mode suits the 36-2-2-2 crank wheel with the separate 2 tooth cam sync wheel at the front of the engine.

Your MAP sensor isnt working and your coolant temp is reading -4deg, so those will be your main two issues. What do you have wired to AN Volt 4? The voltage is bouncing around a lot but has nothing set up on that input in the software.

That sounds correct. The value you use for setting the base timing doesnt matter - all you are doing is making sure the engine/timing light shows the same timing as what the ecu thinks it is providing. So, if you set "lock timing to" to 20BTDC and the timing light shows 20BTDC then it is correct. Once you close the set base timing screen, the ecu will provide whatever advance is commanded in the map - that may be the main ign table or the idle ign table.

It is closed loop. So just the settings shown below. In the latest firmware you can further make the target value come from a table instead of a single value but I would only add that complication for special cases such as ITB with no idle valve.

I was suggesting this as a troubleshooting step only. With the bypass grounded the DIS module will just fire the spark at a fixed position without any influence from the ecu at all, so it rules out your offset being wrong etc.

Yes 500Hz is the quoted max supported frequency, the actual max will vary depending on how hard the processor interrupts are being used for other functions but the G4 being a 15-year-old processor didnt have much in reserve so you likely wont get much more than 500Hz in most applications.

Excel file attached. Note it is simplified compared to the ecu, it doesnt consider fuel temp or the charge cooling effects of the fuel, fuel press etc, but it will give pretty similar values in most cases. Injection Calcs.xlsx

Yes, right click on the dwell table, choose axis set up, set the Y axis to none and adjust the X axis break points to match that example.

How are you powering it up on the bench, and what are you using to power it? What do you have for a laptop?

It seems you are looking at an old log from before the changes were made. Are you sure a new log has been recorded since and you are looking at the latest one? Watch the "log memory use" runtime and make sure it increments by at least 0.01% before you try to download, otherwise it is not saved to memory yet. You can view list of what has been recorded in the ECU log file download screen.

Are your multimeter leads long enough to test continuity from say Inj6 pin at the ecu to inj6 pin at the injector plug? Its possible that some have seized if they have been sitting around a while. Can you temporarily unclip the loom and plug say #1 inj wire onto #2 and see if #2 inj clicks when doing the test on 1?

Since there is no other way to disable the ignition trim, In absolute mode "0" trim is used as a special case that means "zero trim", rather than 0BTDC. So the closest you can get to 0 absolute is set it to 0.1° or -0.1° instead.

Probably needs more fuel then. Try double or triple the current master fuel.

With the idle valve plugged in and ignition off, can you uplug the ECU A plug, and measure what the resistance is between Aux 7 & 8 pins and then between aux 5 & 6 pins at the ecu plug (in the loom side).

Your ignition switch input appears to be connected to the starter signal, not ignition, so if it does actually start you will kill the engine as soon as the starter is stopped. Im not convinced your trigger offset is right. Since this is wasted spark it wouldnt matter if you were 360 out. You could try a squirt of starter fluid to rule out a fuel issue. If no go with starter fluid then I would look closer at spark. You could pull the bypass wire out of the ecu plug and ground the bypass wire, it then ignores all ECU timing control and just fires a static spark at 10deg. Your dwell table also needs to be set like below.

It would be unlikely for 4 injector drives to fail at the same time. Is injection mode set to something other than off?

I dont think idle ignition status is a good parameter to use since it has 9 different state enumerations. Probably better to use a GP Output and virtual aux so you only have 0 or 1 states.

Aux 9 should be set to "E-throttle signal 2", not E-throttle relay. Set aux 16 to E-throttle relay. You will need to enter some appropriate PID values, and the max clamp will likely need to be much higher, set to 80% initially.

The manifold vacuum still looks very suspicious to me. The noise frequency appears to match the engine cycle time so that would suggest one cylinder is either not inhaling as much air out of the manifold as the other cylinders, or one cylinder is blowing air back into the manifold. Possibly a stuck lifter, lack of valve lash, leaking valve seat, broken valve spring or something along those lines? I guess a spark at the wrong time could cause a similar effect but I think you would hear a backfire or something if there was combustion while the intake valve was partially open.

Wheel speeds are CAN frequencies, you have 16 of those available. You would likely have enough CAN inputs to log all those as raw inputs, assuming they are all <16bit, but unlikely enough GP Inputs to convert all those inputs into calibrated/labelled channels in real-world units. In terms of GP analog inputs that are needed for the less common input types, there are only 4 x analog, 4 x temp and 4 x pressure so you will have to pick which of those are important to you. As Vaughan mentioned there is already a 3 axis accelerometer onboard, I have never seen anyone use 2 accelerometers. Im not sure what you mean by 3 x GPS velocity, I haven't seen a CAN GPS device that outputs velocity of each axis separately. But if it really does then these would also be CAN Frequency inputs like the wheel speeds.

Humming would possibly suggest the winding pins are paired wrong. Pinout should be like below.

What is your DI1 ignition switch connected to? It doesnt really behave like an ignition switch, it is off most of the time and only changes to on sometime after cranking, then immediately turns off again as soon as you stop cranking.

Yes, most of our premium fuel here doesnt have any ethanol as there is no ethanol production here. I couldnt guarantee our pump gas does actually have a stoich ratio of 14.7 however, that is more a guess. There is no calculation you can do for injection timing, you can only find the best instant experimentally. Injector location, injection duration, spray pattern, valve timing and intake resonance mean there is not even really a rule of thumb. If you cant see a trend in AFR when varying injector timing at fast idle then it probably means it is of little consequence with your hardware. Our V10 base map is quite old and from before my time, from early G4+, or possibly even Vipec days, so I dont know much about the car it came from, how long we had it or how well it was tuned, but our V11 map was tuned by me personally and I drove it around a lot during CAN development so I do know that one fairly well. I ended up at 470deg in that also, but I do remember there being FA difference from injection timing on that car. Use the knock settings from our V11 base map. The knock control was well optimized in that and worked best at 8KHz (EJ207). An EJ257 might require a different frequency but the bulk of the settings will likely be very close. Im not sure for the V10 base map, the V11 base map was from a 2.0. We get a fairly even mix of both here at a guess, we have a relaxed trade agreement with Japan so the vast majority of 2nd hand cars sold here are imported used from Japan. The 2.0JDM version has a reputation as a stronger engine and compared to our NZ new ones (based on AUDM I think) they have a few other desirable features such as push button start, 6spd instead of 5, bigger brakes, etc.