Adamw

Absolute load is a standard SAE J1979 diagnostic variable. Roughly speaking it is the engine air mass flow relative to the max possible mass flow based on swept volume at standard atmospheric conditions. So an NA engine with a VE of 100% would have an absolute load of 100% at WOT. The same engine at 1bar boost and 100% VE would have an absolute load of 200%. Absolute load is directly proportional to the maximum flywheel torque available. By default in the Link ECU the absolute load runtime is only used for the torque estimation calculation. You can however use it for the load axis of your ignition table or some other function that is influenced by torque such as power management or diff control etc if you wish.

You appear to have an issue with the TPS wiring. The TPS main voltage changes from a max of 4.06V to a min of 1.5V from closed to open which is probably acceptable, but not what the Link supplied 82mm throttle should output - so I suspect even that is wrong. But the more obvious issue is the TPS sub goes from 4.16V to 4.72V, so only about 0.5V range from fully closed to fully open. It should be more like a 4V change on both sensors.

The only logic I can put to that comment is your timing is wrong so it is "kicking back". This doesnt sound correct, can you explain in more detail what you are observing?

Looking at your map, your pre-crank prime is extraordinarily high for a hot start. As a test, can you try dropping the highlighted region down to about 10ms. See if that help or makes it worse. If it makes it worse then I would lean towards the issue being related to injector atomisation.

The serial data stream does not include lambda, it only has the raw analog voltages so it is not possible to view data from a CAN lambda using the serial connection. You will need to connect realdash with a CAN adapter.

That will mess up your tune as you are telling the ecu it needs to inject a smaller proportion of fuel for the calculated air mass. Do you have your map open so the ecu knows the stoichiometric ratio it needs to use to display AFR? Those values would suggest it is using 14.7 which could be because a map is not open, or you have someone elses map open that has a stoich ratio of 14.7 set. But then that would not fit your story that the target table did not match the log as you would need the map open at the same time to see the target table?

Do you have the PID setup to monitor E-throttle 1? Your multiplier is set to -1%/%. ie. for 25% fuel pump speed you are asking for -25% duty cycle. Can the gauge show live data or is it an average since last reset? Are the wheel speeds reading correctly in the ecu? This one im not aware of, where does it say VA9-16 was added? I remember CAN analog 9-16 being added, but I think that was a while ago. Ill check that, I do have the cruise set and cruise enabled signal noted on ID864 in our internal documentation but our car doest have cruise so it may not have been tested. I dont think our car has the tach lights so they definitely arent in the stream. What do these tach lights usually do - come on at a certain RPM or something?

The AFR target appears to match the table from what I see. There are a couple of small deviations just when it is starting to come on to boost quickly but these are because you have only logged the AFR target at 5Hz, so there is a bit of lag as you move through cells. For the knock you will need to set the retard limit to something appropriate (say -4), allocate the cyl trim tables, change frequency to 8KHz and add more of the knock data to the logging.

An M50 has a reluctor sensor, it doesnt have power.

Your map is attached with the user stream and ID fixed. have assumed the lambda device is wired to CAN1, if not then you will have to turn off user stream 1 on CAN one and enable it on CAN2. Subaru V3 map CAN fixed.pclx

Do you have a log showing the target of 11.35 @ 20psi, I dont see any way that would be commanded from your map. You have the lambda target overlay table turned on but that only has a value at 0RPM and -20°C so that wouldn't have had any effect when the engine was running. Also be aware you have the stoichiometric ratio set to 14.13:1 in the ecu, so if you are viewing the target AFR of some 3rd party device that has a hard coded 14.7:1 stoich ratio then you will certainly observe different values that the ecu is commanding.

It is your cam signal that is the problem, as David suggests, it is not driving to ground. The little yellow arrow on the left of the screen is 0V or ground, the signal from a hall sensor should get very close to that when exposed to a tooth. The sensor is effectively a switch that just shorts the signal wire to ground when a tooth is in front of the sensor. So your signal should look more like below: So it appears you have a compromised ground to the cam sensor. Start by confirming you have good continuity from the ground pin at the sensor plug back to the ECU pin A7. Make sure the contact in the cam sensor plug still has good spring tension on the terminal etc. You can probably pull the sensor out and just place metal in front of it for testing instead of running or trying to run the engine. You should see something above about 4V with nothing in front of it and less than say 0.3V when metal is in front of it.

You can always give it more air with your foot if you think there is a lack of air flow... Do us a log of a start attempt. You can try giving it more fuel by increasing the master fuel also.

Yes, it requires an external direct injector amplifier, for both the injectors and in most cases the pump solenoid. Link have a universal 4 channel one in development currently for solenoid type injectors but it is probably still a few months away. Some OEM applications have them such as Toyota 86, 2UR, 2GR etc, but these are not programmable so they may or may not be suitable for other applications, the voltage and current profiles need to be confirmed as suitable for the desired engine. There are a couple of 3rd party options such as Bosch HPI5 and Syvecs GDI12 for solenoid injectors, but limited options for piezo injectors that I know of.

No easy fix, you really have to start again as there is little relationship between MAP and TPS with ITB's. It will be mostly the rows less than about 20%TP that need significant adjustment but it will vary with RPM and idle valve position as well. Correct, you likely wont need or use the MAP sensor. I typically only use MAP if I have an idle valve, or if I have an air box that is either restrictive or gives a good aerodynamic "boost" then I would use it as an external BAP (connected to airbox).

Sounds about what I expect then. It can only really be a stuck or otherwise faulty stepper in that case.

The next thing I would do to eliminate a wiring issue is power the ecu up on the bench, just 12V on pin 5 and ground on pin 34. Then do an injector test, preferably test with an LED test lamp as the scope may still show nothing since there is no injector "pulling it high"

I guess I would start by climbing into the boot/trunk and count the flash codes from the attessa ECU, that should give some clues what it is not happy about.

I would expect the settings below would be correct. I have no idea what the offset would be though.

Do you have the ignition mode set to wasted spark? As I mentioned earlier the storm based plug-in only has 4 ign drives so it fires the coils in wasted spark pairs, ign mode needs to be wasted spark as per the base map.

I doubt you will be able to make it knock at 2000RPM with no boost. Maybe if you cover the intercooler to get very high IAT or use the lowest octane fuel. When testing our V11 sti I had over 45deg advance, 3000RPM, and maybe 120-140kpa MAP to make it knock. Try the knock settings from our V11 base map, it is a EJ207, but will likely work for an EJ20 ok.

Yeah you have error 16 which is usually from voltage spikes upsetting one of the tests it performs. Adding the capacitor will likely solve it.

Your MAP reading doesnt flinch with the engine running Vs not running, like the hose is not connected or something. In the last map you attached you had both ECT and IAT calibrations set to none. These need to be set to match the sensors you are using. If you are using the stock GM sensors then they will likely use the Delphi/AC calibrations.

Try a squirt of starter fluid in the manifold to confirm if the issue is fuel or spark. If that doesnt give any more signs of life then get a timing light on it and confirm your base timing looks ok. Your offset looks about normal for an RB though.

Its a bit of a guess since they arent using the standard OBD2 parameter names in a lot of that list and they dont list what PID's those names relate to either, but I would say oil temp or possibly MAF could be used (assuming their "Air Flow" is OBD2 Mass Air Flow from PID10). To send ethanol % out instead of oil temp, set up like below. MAF would be similar.