Adamw

The 12138643360 coils are also dumb coils. In fact nearly all BMW's have dumb coils. I think it is quite likely due to having no ignitor between the ecu and coil. With no ignitor, every time the coil sparks you will get a high voltage (~100-400V) flyback sent back into the ecu. Usually the ignitor arrests this high voltage so it doesnt disturb the ecu.

It looks like none of your analog sensors are reading correctly when you saved that map. Are coolant, MAP and APS showing correctly when you are viewing the ecu live?

pm'd.

The map you attached above has the oil temp calibration on AN T3 set to "Ford Falcon CHT", not Std Bosch NTC. Where did you get the pinout for that pedal sensor? The few pics I can find online suggest it only has one position output, then it looks like maybe a WOT and idle switch? You dont have any sensor ground connected to your throttles. Pin 2 is sensor ground.

Those coils are "dumb coils", they do not have an internal driver. The ignition drives on the Thunder are only low current signals for triggering "smart coils" (integrated driver inside the coil) or dumb coils using an external driver. They cant drive a high current dumb coil directly. Without an ignitor you will have a very weak spark and because the signal is inverted. the spark will occur at the beginning of the dwell period instead of the correct crank angle so you will observe it will drift hugely with RPM and voltage. You will either need to fit external ignition drivers such as two bosch 0 227 100 203, or change the ignition coils to smart coils. The common VW/Audi "R8" coils fit the M50 quite well and are relatively cheap.

Can you attach your tune. Are you connecting the temp sensor and fuel press to the MAF plug in the engine bay or to the expansion loom?

I just had a quick look, there appears to be plenty of Storms in stock at all our sales offices worldwide, they should ship out the same day the dealer orders it in most cases.

I found a couple of service manuals for a XV40 camry, both of them suggest they have normal VR/AC wheel speed sensors. But then a google image search suggests there may not all be that type. Both these pics below are for XV40 camry front wheel speed sensors. If your sensors look like this one with a cylindrical body and a pole piece visibly poking out the end in the centre then I would say that is almost definitely VR. However if it looks more like a flattened blade like this one below, then I would lean more towards it being an MR/Active type.

I suspect these will be magnetoresistive sensors. I didnt look for info on the camry, but the info below is from a 3rd gen rav4 manual. You can see it shows a squarewave signal with 2 different current levels. So these would need the matching RAV4 magnetic target wheels and wouldnt work with stock MR2 ABS. They can be quite tricky to make work, you need to experiment with different combinations of supply voltages and pull-up/down values to convert the variable current into a variable voltage. The fixed switching thresholds of the G4X DI's often arent well suited for this type of sensor. Some basic info here: https://www.motec.com.au/filedownload.php/CTN0007 Magneto Resistive Sensors.pdf?docid=3634

This is likely your problem, target wheel edge accuracy is critical with hall effect sensors. G4+ had heavy hardware filtering and a hardcoded software filter, which worked ok for most, but does have a negative effect on control accuracy of synchronous functions like VVT where timing is critical. G4X has a user selectable software based filter on DI's when used as speed inputs. Does the filter not take care of it? I agree, the G4+ terminology seemed more intuitive to me and even now I still occasionally need to pause and think about it before changing a setting or whatever.

You dont have CAN Aux 1-4 assigned to anything in your map so they will be outputting a "2" via CAN. When you set it to test they will be outputting a 1. So most likely the ECU master device considers anything >0 to be "on", so you wont see any difference between the two states that the ecu is sending and the switchboard wont handle "Off" or "Fault" statuses correctly. If you actually assign CAN aux 1-4 to the function you want to use them for then the inactive/active states will at least work correctly.

Most likely you have old firmware in your ECU from before the PDM functionality was added to G4X. PC link will only show functions that your firmware/hardware is capable of.

The excel document halfway up this page suggests the ecu just reads the odometer tick from 0x4C0 and sends it out on 0x420, so possibly quite simple if that is correct. Otherwise, since it is only 1 byte wide I would suspect it will just increment by 1 bit per fixed distance such as 0.1M, then rollover when it gets to 255. G4X can calculate distance, G4+ cant.

They are wired direct.

Attach a copy of your tune.

The only thing that can keep the ecu alive would be a back-feeding aux or something faulty in the ignition circuit. Since you have added E-throttle, and you are also saying E-throttle dstays on all the time, it sounds like the issue is there somewhere. Does the ecu power down if you unplug the e-throttle connector from the board? Can you attach a copy of your current tune - in the one you attached at the top you have e-throttle relay assigned to aux 9 which should be the motor?

Put stream 4 back to MS byte order, you can see in the visual frame at the bottom of your setup screen all the start positions are now messed up. The stream was set up correctly before, all you needed to change was channel 4 to transmit user stream 4 as Kris suggested. If it didnt work like that then your problem is elsewhere. I would turn off the OBD2 also while you are testing.

Yes, that is a PC log this time. It all looks happy during the calibration. Enter some appropriate control settings and I think it should work. Try these as a starting point:

Yes, that is the only setting you should see in the CAN setup and ecu CAN direct to dash should be ok. With the instrument cluster unplugged but ecu connected and ignition on, what voltage do you have on pin 9 & 10 (measured to ground) in the main dash plug?

The cut decay time is the main issue. With it at 400ms and the start cut at 60% it means any time you even just kiss the limiter it is going to be cutting at least 60% power for nearly half a second, this is the reason it is "falling on its face".

It is not just a matter of turning on knock control and it will work. The knock control system needs to be tuned under controlled conditions and verified with audio equipment before you can expect it will detect knock accurately.

If your existing knock control setup is working well then I would leave it alone.

Why do you want to do it piggyback? Is it automatic transmission or something? I think it would be easier to remove the factory ecu in most cases.

Im still not completely sure what you are asking. If the gauges are wired to the OEM CAN bus line that connects to pins 86 & 94, then this should work provided you have ODB2 enabled on CAN 2.

This is expected as you have 2 functions linked to the CAN DI, you can click the spanner icon in the CAN DI connection list to see what those are. CAN DI 1 for example has the simple button 1 and the start pos assigned to it - which is exactly what you need. CAN DI3 only has the button assigned to it and nothing else, so it doesnt say "multiple".