Adamw

No extra module should be required at all. The ECU can natively output all OEM 350Z CAN messages, we make 350Z plug-in ECU's that dont use any extra module. It sounds like they have wired it like this: ECU CAN>CAN converter module>350Z bus. I would change it to: ECU CAN>350Z bus.

You've got no integral gain so you have no action to remove any long term offset. Your part number is not one I have seen before, but I would try the PID values for the generic bosch in the help file page: Wiring Information > Output Wiring > E-Throttle > Specific E-Throttle Applications > Generic Bosch

A 4 stroke engine cycle is 720degrees (2 crankshaft revolutions), the crank wheel has missing teeth that occur every 360degrees, so if we look at the crank wheel only there is no unique event that the ecu can use to determine if the crankshaft is on its first 360deg revolution or 2nd 360deg revolution. The same applies to the intake cam - it has 6 teeth, 1 every 120degrees and all teeth are the same size, so again there is no unique pattern to identify position, the signal received at the ecu will look exactly the same on the first 360 crank revolution as the 2nd 360 revolution. The exhaust cam on the other hand has 6 short teeth and 1 long tooth, the ecu will receive 3 cam edges on the first crank revolution and 4 cam edges on the other, so with this information it can determine its position within the 720deg otto cycle. For sequential operation, an ecu needs as a minimum: a crank position signal, and a cam signal with some unique event or other asymetrical pattern that repeats only once per cam rev. If you cant connect the exhaust cam signal to the ecu, then you could possibly swap the exhaust cam wheel to the intake cam (im not sure if they are mechanically interchangeable) or you could modify the intake cam wheel - for example cut 1 tooth off.

A couple of further comments to expand on Kris's advice. For the ignition you could alternatively wire the coils in wasted spark pairs, no real disadvantage over direct spark in this case, the G4X can still do individual cyl knock control with wasted spark, the coils may run a little hotter than direct. Also I thought it was worth mentioning in the latest firmware you can reassign the ign and injector outputs, probably not much advantage in this case, but it means you could for example use say Ign 6 & 7 instead of 5&6, leaving ign 5 in its place controlling the main fan. Ign 8 has a pull-up added on it for the tacho so I would avoid using that one for coils.

Do they have an integrated ignitor? Most Porsche ones dont, so may not be a good option.

No, the AN Volt inputs dont have an internal pull-up resistor, this setting is there for when you wire in your own external pull-up resistor, or when like in your case there is a pull-up resistor in an external device (gauge), the ecu needs to know what value pull-up is fitted as it is needed for the calculation to convert ohms into volts/temperature. This is why I suggested fitting an independent sensor with known data. Right now you dont know the pull-up resistor value that is inside the gauge, you dont know the voltage that the gauge is passing through the pull-up, and you dont know the calibration curve of the sensor. You will have to build your own calibration curve for the sensor, you can use ice water and boiling water for 2 known points, then possibly calibrate against the displayed gauge values at higher temps if you trust it is accurate.

Yes, sensors require very little current, you can typically power >10 sensors from a single supply.

Yes.

For the press/temp sensor, there is AN Volt 3 and AN Temp 2 and a sensor ground in the MAF plug, so that would be an easy option, there is no 5V in the MAF plug but you could run that from the expansion or get it from the AC pressure, PS pressure or Throttle position sensor. For the mac valve you connect 1 wire to an ignition switched +12V source and the other to an aux output. A convenient connection option would be one of the original front oxygen sensor plugs, these have an aux and 12V connection already there under the car.

You dont need a CAN module, there is a 350Z CAN mode already in the ECU, I would wire the CAN straight to the ecu and it will get all 4 wheel speeds from the ABS via CAN bus.

Do you mean crank trigger only? If it still has ITB's then you could possibly connect the MAP sensor to cyl 1 intake port and use the MAP sync function instead of cam sync. If it is single throttle that wont be possible.

User defined mode, number of banks = 2, 1 cam sensor will be connected to trigger 2, the other to DI1-4. The settings below in orange will be a starting point for tuning that will probably be close to working. Once the engine is running, get it warmed up and hold it at fast idle, set the cam angle test to "calibrate" and it will populate the tooth offset tables and tooth counts then should set itself back to off if successful. You can then tune the PID and base duty. Just so there is no confusion, the intake cams actually sit in their most retarded position when the solenoids are de-energised or unplugged. This is often called "home position" and is "0" in your VVT target table. They can only move in the advance direction from home and typically they start to move when the solenoid gets more than about 40%DC (base duty). Advance is positive values in the VVT target table, so if you have say "20" in the VVT target table, this will be 20deg advance from the home position.

Email [email protected] and they will steer you in the right direction.

There are surely many different options to fit an extra sensor, you wont be the first person to want a gauge and ecu sensor.

Yes, the problem is you have trigger 2 connected to the intake cam which has 6 evenly spaced teeth, so there is no unique event for the ecu to synchronise from. You need to instead connect the exhaust cam sensor to trigger 2, this has 6 short teeth and 1 long tooth so it has a unique pattern that the ecu can use to identify engine phase. The inlet cam can be moved to DI1-4.

You will be better to fit a seperate sensor with a known calibration rather than guess or use trial and error. Temp gauges often use a 12V pull-up so the ECU wont be able to measure it, and with the gauges connected to chassis ground there is potentially a variable ground offset error as the electrical loads passing through the chassis vary.

If you can update firmware then it must have coms. Can you clarify what you mean by that?

With a G4X it should work, I cant think of any data the ecu wouldnt be able to transmit due to the non-subaru engine. You would probably be best to use a WRX11 plug-in though and just change the engine side loom.

The "Send default comms" should have set it to "active at startup" mode, and it did work on the one I tested. It sounds like yours isn't accepting that for some reason.

In most cases error 54 will be a failed/contaminated/poisoned sensor. A quick explanation of how a wideband sensor works may help understand the terms "pump current" etc: The main sensing part inside a wideband sensor is basically the same as you will find in a narrowband sensor, it is a ceramic material with a catalyst that generates a voltage relative to O2 content - but in both narrowband and wideband sensors this "Nernst Cell" is only accurate when the gas in the measurement cell is very close to stoichiometric - not useful on its own for wideband measurement. So, for a wideband sensor they add an "O2 pump" to the side of the sensing cell, the controller then pumps extra O2 ions into or out of the sense chamber to maintain λ=1 inside the sense chamber at all times. How much O2 the pump has to pump in or out of the chamber is directly related to the O2 content of the exhaust gas, the reported Lambda value that you see on the laptop screen is determined from the pump current that was required to keep the gas in the sense cell at stoich. "Excessive Pump Current" means the O2 pump is pumping as much O2 in or out of the chamber as it can, but the gas inside is not reaching stoich. If it is some sort of contamination, sometimes you can recover them by setting "Run when stalled" to yes and leave it powered up without the engine running for half an hour or so.

Im not quite sure of your question so I will give a little background info that may answer what you are looking for, or if not, you can try giving more info. Most temperature sensors create a resistance that varies with temperature. The ecu uses the resistance of the temp sensor to form part of a voltage divider circuit, so to the ecu it will see the signal as a variable voltage rather than a variable resistance. The software calibration in the ecu to convert to temperature can use "ohms" or voltage.

You could use the external E-throttle module which requires Aux 1&2 or Aux 3 &4 (you can shuffle tacho or fuel pump to another aux to free up the correct pair), and you would need 2 spare AN volts for the pedal and 1 extra for the TPS sub. You should have enough - there is AN Volt 9 & 10 on the expansion as well as AN Volt 2 & 3. Or the other option would be to return to Link to have aux 9 & 10 wires added and they would add a couple of extra analog inputs at the same time. The external module would not be required. Both options would work out around the same cost - the 2nd option would give the advantage of slightly less wiring work and a couple of extra inputs and outputs.

There is a closed loop stepper motor control function in the aux outputs menu, only aux 5-8 are capable of stepper control. However they are limited to about 1A so you will need to check what current the motor requires, Im not sure.

Please do a triggerscope capture when cranking and attach here.

Attached is your map with some basic gear shift settings added. You will need to fill out the gear ratio table with the actual gear ratios. I have only set up driven upshift, you will need to be above 2000RPM and 20% throttle for the shift cut to activate. I have added some gear related channels to the ecu logging, try some gentle shifts at about 30% throttle then download the ecu log and attach here for review. polo Nuno Map 2 Shift set up.pclx