Adamw

Yes, it sounds like the FET that grounds pin 16 is possibly dead. Without power on 49/59 the ecu will get a weak power supply via a back feed through a powered aux device which will cause the flashing light or sometimes a clicking relay or solenoid. Email [email protected] to arrange repair.

It will be updated when you load the map into the storm.

No, this would just suggest you are using a newer or special firmware version that PC Link doesnt understand. i.e there are new settings in the ecu that the PC Link version you are using has no knowledge of. It shouldn't normally happen if you are using public release firmware as far as I know. It would be helpful if you could go to >help>ecu information and give us a pic of the info window so I can confirm there is a valid explanation. In any case, make sure you are using the newest G5 PC Link and do a firmware update if it still gives "ID's not found" and you should be ok.

I have attached our most recent one which has a few improvements from the older one that is currently in PC Link. You will need to use the G5 PC Link to open this one. Nissan R34 GTT G4X Xtreme Plugin.pclx

I have never personally had an evo ix one apart but I would imagine this has full oil pressure inside the actuator, even with the solenoid unplugged.

Oh, sorry for the confusion. We tend to use the more British version of english and I suspect a lot of these odd terms come from there. I basically means "try it and see". https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/suck-it-and-see I once used another one I thought was common English when talking to a German colleague "There is more than one way to skin a cat", I have never seen a more confused look on someone's face before.

Most likey would be my guess, although I dont know anyone that has tried. You will have to suck it and see.

We barely have any sleds down here in NZ so we dont have a lot of exposure or experience. Most of our technical support in the Vipec days was handled by precision EFI. However we may have some information on some of the polaris sleds we worked on that may help, I could do with more detail what you are working with. A quick look in our notes, the 600cc engine has a system they call "VES" which looks like a fairly traditional 2 wire solenoid valve that controls a diaphragm, then the bigger ones have a system called E-VES, which looks like a closed loop servo motor and another "convertor box" connected to the ecu. Can you explain what you have.

Can you set Aux 17 polarity to low and TPS2 sub span to 100%, then store, do a power cycle and try the TPS cal again.

Can you attach a copy of the tune. A PC log of a TPS calibration procedure would be useful also. For the aux 14/15 open circuit, try temporarily setting the aux function to "test on" so the settings are available, then set the open circuit detection option to off, then you can turn the aux function back to off. For the triggerscope, are you clicking the capture button when the engine is cranking?

I would expect this ecu should work. I will need a log and tune if you need help with the aux 9/10 error.

Many alternators need significant current flowing through the lamp circuit, into the alternator to excite the field. The factory dash possibly has a parallel resistor across the LED or some type of high-draw LED to achieve this. Your LED, if it was designed to work at 12V will likely have some current limiting resistor in series built-in making it even less likely to work. I would try adding something like a 100ohm, 5W resistor (note these are relatively big) across the LED like below.

Yeah I would think so, I have done 2 x 90 or 100W? incandescent headlamps on an HC output when testing successfully.

Im pretty sure the 350Z wheel speed sensors are magnetoresistive so will not work connected directly to the ecu. I would try bypassing the WS CAN module to start with as its only 2 wires and a setting change in the ecu. You could probably even just unplug the module and poke 2 bent paperclips into the connector to loop the ECU CAN direct to 350Z bus. I cant think of any reason why it wouldnt work or why the module is needed, it really seems like it was designed for an application where you are using an ECU without a 350Z CAN mode. Without CAN, the next easiest option to get a speed input into the ECU would probably be a cheap GPS speed sensor.

ECU's with P&H drivers have the injector outputs connected to a flyback rail so it is normal to see bat voltage on the injector output when it is "off". Note in test mode the injector output only pulses to ground for 2ms, so a multimeter or normal test light wont see it. You need an LED test light or "noid light" to check the injector pulse is there. Those 2200cc injectors will seize up with the slightest hint of moisture anywhere near them so perhaps touch one on a battery with some jumper wires to make sure it does actually click. The drivers should be set to saturated also.

Can you also please attach a copy of your tune, preferably save it when the ign sw is off but ecu is still powered up.

I wanted to know what model Link ecu you have, not the serial number. Your attached pinout looks like it matches our WRX04 ecu with the jumpers set to 05/06 positions. I have no idea if the Forester has any CAN bus for any integration so I cant say confidently that will be no issue.

I think the only way to be sure with the HID is to connect one and try it, I have a suspicion it wont like it. I have run a normal 50W headlight bulb with an ADIO but they arent really sensitive to start up current like an HID is. If an ADIO is overloaded it just automatically PWM's at very high frequency to control current, that might prevent the HID from getting the arc going. Up to about 20V is fine on the ADIO, not sure where the 12V max term came from sorry.

I dont think I would trust the wideband in that log at all, it is still pegged at the leanest value it can read even at the end of the log. As a quick validation when you next to a cold start and it is not running good, try adding or subtracting say 5ms from the master fuel to see if it improves when you make it leaner or richer.

You have idle control set to open loop so the throttle will sit at whatever value you have in the base position table + the start up offset. It is not meant to sit at 0% as the engine wouldnt have any air to run, 6% is about normal for a cold start and ~3% is a typical idle position when warm. Will need to see a log of the APS tracking error with the e-throttle set to "ON" mode to see what is causing that issue.

To give a bit more information about the 2UR cam control - although we have it working nicely on our test engine, be aware there is not yet a nice user-friendly built-in control strategy for these cam motors. Im currently doing it with a fairly complex arrangement of GP PWM tables. I need to spend some more time on it to specify a built-in function with a lot of this complexity hidden from the user but I wont be able to for a month or two due to other priorities. We can give you a map with it all working and controlling well and I dont expect it will need any tuning or adjustment but it is not currently easy to understand if you needed to adjust anything. Adjusting the commanded cam angle is still tuned in the normal way with the VVT target table, just there is a whole lot of other stuff working in the background to translate that into a motor demand. Note it is a very IO hungry engine and the wiring is complex, I can probably give you the drawing from our loom but it really will need a very experienced wiring guy to build it, 16 injectors staged DI/port, 2 DI pumps, 5 cam sensors, 4 knock sensors, 2 brushless motor controllers with diagnostics on the intake cams, conventional hydraulic VVT on the exhaust, E-throttle etc. Our loom has a little more complexity as we have sublooms to quickly swap between different injector driver boxes.

Can you confirm what problem you have. The throttle is working correctly in the log, the pedal signal is a bit flakey like it is worn or has a bad connection, but I dont see any issue with the throttle.

You will have to pull the sprocket off to see what is wrong. The dowel and cyl 2 lobes should be pointing upwards. It could be a sheared dowel or some other assembly issue.

The pics are too small to tell, but are you saying these #2 lobes marked below are pointing straight up towards the sky? They sure dont look like it in this pic.

So only your very last pic at the bottom is at TDC? Its a bit of a tough view to work from, but in that pic the exhaust cam now looks closer to the expected position, but the intake cam doesnt, it looks much more retarded (anti clockwise) from where it should be. A pic of evo 9 cams below, you will notice on the intake cam that I have marked, the cyl 2 lobes are roughly aligned with the dowel. When fitted in to an engine the dowel should be pointing up vertical when at TDC, so I expect in your picture we should see the number 2 lobes pointing vertical-ish as well if the cam was in the correct position. It doesnt look like that in your photo but it could just be a bad photo angle to judge from. Possibly the hub in mivec actuator has been assembled wrong - The hubs usually have 4 or 5 lobes and often can be assembled wrong (ie 90 or 72 deg out - just a general comment not evo 9 specific, I have never had one of these in bits personally).