Adamw

If you want to remove a tooth from the cam and run multitooth mode then either tooth will be fine. However if you are happy to remove the cam wheel for modification then my suggestion would be to just shorten the longest "tooth" as per my pic below. This would then work with Evo 7-9 trigger mode which would give better resolution than multitooth mode. It is a bit hard to see in this pic but the two teeth are marked with red, we want to shorten the trailing end of the longest tooth so it is about 90deg long (currently it is about 140deg long). What we are trying to achieve is in the scope we want the 2nd trig 2 edge to fall when trig 1 is high. Green trace below is current signal, red would be how it looks after cutting.

Yes the CANchecked MFD15 is supported well, by default it uses our "Generic Dash 2" stream, which is basic but has most common data that you would need for a gauge. You can also customise the CAN at both ends if you want to send some extra data that is not in the generic stream. I am happy to help you on the forum here with custom CAN setup if that is needed. The set-up instructions on their website are a bit outdated but this doc should cover most of the ecu setup: https://www.canchecked.de/wp-content/uploads/connection-guide_LinkECU.pdf

The undershoot is a combination of idle control kicking in too early and no dashpot. Change the "RPM lockout above target" to 500RPM as a start, then you will need to experiment with dashpot offset, hold and decay. Dashpot settings seem to vary a lot from car to car so I dont have a typical suggestion, start with about 0.4%offset, 0.5s hold, 0.2s decay.

Ok, in the A loom there are 2 shielded cables, 1 with a grey jacket and 1 with black. The black jacket cable is for Trigger 1/Crank. Inside this cable, connect the black wire to the crank sensor signal, connect the white wire to crank sensor ground, connect the bare drain wire to the crank sensor shield pin. Reluctor sensors dont need power. The grey jacket cable is for trigger 2/cam. Connect the red wire to the cam sensor signal, connect the white to the cam sensor ground, leave the bare drain wire unconnected at the cam sensor end. Run the 8V wire (pin A6) to the cam sensor for power. Our E36 manual shows the M44 sensor pinouts as below: Crank sensor pin 1 = Signal, 2 = Gnd, 3 = Shield. Cam sensor pin 1= 12V, 2 = Signal, 3 = Gnd.

It still appears like you have an air leak. Your throttle should be around 2-5% open for normal warm idle, yours is still sitting hard at 0% and the RPM is still way too high. The oscillation is from the RPM creeping above the RPM lockout so idle control is disabled.

And what does the RPM in PC Link show, does it perhaps do a short undershoot when returning to idle?

Only Aux outputs 5-10 can do high-side drive (output 12V), all others including ign and inj outputs are lowside drve (switch to gnd).

Yeah, unfortunately that 100-0.5-0.5 flywheel pattern is pretty odd and not supported in the G4+. Most of the other 928's I have helped users with had a 60-2 trigger and I thought they were stock? Are there some variations or these? If some do have a stock 60-2 trigger, does that fit on yours?

I think you must have a large air leak. In your logs your throttle is wound hard shut against the mechanical stops, the idle ignition is retarding the timing right back to 3deg, yet it is still idling at 1400RPM. With that much retard and a closed throttle the engine shouldn't even be able to run, so there must be air coming from somewhere else other than the throttle for that to happen. For reference I pulled out a log from our old barra test car and at similar temperatures that needed 3.5% throttle with 10deg advance to idle at 750RPM. The reason for the E-throttle fault is the ECU is pushing full power into the motor trying to get it to close the last 0.1%, but it is sitting against the mechanical stop, if the motor DC sits at the min DC for more than 2 sec (from memory) and sees no movement then the ecu assumes the throttle is jammed and activates safety mode.

Yes, as I mentioned yesterday. The log only covers ECT 80-84°C so cold start will likely need more work, but start with something like below should be closer than what you have now:

Sorry I've been on holiday (still for another week), had some spare time tonight. Modified files attached. The only thing I have changed in the ecu config is the CAN ID on stream 5 to 1100, just to match one of my existing templates - so if your ecu map has had further tuning since your original post then this is all you need to change in your existing map to make it work. EGT's dont need to be sent from the ECU since they are already broadcast on the same bus, these can be read directly into the dash from the amp. The .xc1 file attached below is not needed to make your dash work, but you can import this into the CAN builder in RS3 if you wish to add anything to the CAN stream in the future. Some of your display pages may have some of the fields changed around a bit as my templates use different labels than the default AIM template. I did make sure any important channels for alarms etc were matched. NISSAN 200SX 2JZ LARDIS CAN changes.pclx LINK_Llias Custom_@20240108_072103_006365.xc1 LINK S14A.zconfig

If you can change to the evo cam sensor & wheel then you wont need to cut anything. But I thought the RVR engine had the weird cam sensor at the "front" of the engine behind the cam pulley, whereas the evo's have it at the back of the head. If your engine has all the mounting holes and drive for any of the evo type cam sensors or earlier CAS then that would be an easy option.

Why does the ecu need to control the chassis relay? It would be better to have that controlled by the ign switch.

You will need to turn the pull-up ON on trigger 1, and set trig 2 sync mode to none.

Are you using a Link A loom?

Your E-throttle still has no integral. As you can see this means the throttle will sometimes be a long way off target with no action to correct it. My suggested values: Values in your latest map:

You google drive link is just another copy of the map, so I haven't seen a log. But several set up issues in your map that should be fixed before you do another log: 1. You have zero integral on your E-throttle control, this means it will never actually reach target. I would change your throttle PID back to the base map values below as a starting point which I have seen work well before: 2. Your idle ignition target is too high and the proportional and derivative are excessive. 24deg is close to MBT so you have little capability of increasing torque when needed quickly to prevent a stall. Since E-throttle is relatively slow at increasing or decreasing torque, it is important to have good idle ign authority. My suggested starting points: 3. Your idle speed control integral is too high, 0.02 to 0.05 is typical for e-throttle idle control. Set this to 0.05 initially. 4. Your fuel table could do with flattening out around the idle entry area: Please do a fresh log after those changes are made. You will likely need to adjust your idle base position table with some of these changes.

The fault on the aux channels means the voltage measured on the aux pin is not as expected. It expects to see >2/3 battery voltage on the aux pin when the aux is inactive/off. Can you draw a schematic of how you have your power supplies wired (ECU and aux supplies).

That is a Flyin Miata "Obiwan" ecu. It will work with the Link hand controller but not PC Link software as far as I know, flying Miata had their own software suite called "Datalog Lab". You can still download DLL here: https://s3.us-west-1.amazonaws.com/dataloglab.flyinmiata/index.htm And you can download their manuals and base maps etc here: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/1500zme4hm74e6j/AACV24TWnoui-m4Kf4naGuALa?dl=0

Sending 12V directly into the injector drive when it was "on" has likely fried the driver. It sounds like it will need to be returned for repair.

@Caleb95 You will be best to post some info about your problem along with a copy of your own tune/log/scope. This user's settings with a G4+ ecu are unlikely useful to you if you have a G4X.

You can send RPM to the controller via CAN, or you could use an aux output set to GP PWM to generate a conventional tacho signal.

I have little info on this car but I have discussed with some colleagues in the past and I believe most of the important CAN messages in this model use checksums for error checking so it may not be something you will be able to reproduce with the user CAN tools in PC Link. You will certainly be able to receive all messages from other devices without using the checksum but I suspect other devices wont be happy to accept data from the ecu useless it has the correct checksum in every message. My suggestion for a decent CAN tool is a PCAN-USB, genuine ones are ~USD250 or you can get clones for about half that. The advantage of the PCAN is it is supported by nearly all of the good CAN software tools, including many powerful free options. The free version of the PCAN software is very basic, but SavvyCAN, TSMaster and BusMaster are free/open source and will pretty much do all you ever need. You can also use all the Linux tools with PCAN if you really need to.

Can you clarify the problem, originally you had the VVT auxes showing faults, now are you saying you have an e-throttle issue? What auxes are you setting to high side? Do you have an Xtreme wire in ECU or a K20 Plugin?

No, the problem is the "cam sensor" signal is inverted on your engine. The crank signal is fine. From memory the RVR has the cam sensor behind one of the cam sprockets doesnt it? - so modifying that is going to be quite a major job? Although removing a tooth from the cam would allow the engine to run using the generic "multitooth" trigger mode, you will lose some resolution by doing that. Our Evo trigger modes use both the rising and falling edges on the crank so you get 4 edges per crank rev - effectively doubling the resolution. Multitooth mode would only see two edges per rev. Can you give me a picture of the RVR cam sensor & wheel, there may be other options.