Adamw

NZEFI has the main features highlighted reasonably well on their webpage and you can see and compare the NZ retail price to the other G4+ models on their site: http://www.nzefi.com/product/link-g4-monsoon-ecu/ The latest PC Link download has a monsoon base map included so you should have a play with that also to ensure it has all features you need. No knock control, traction control or Ethrottle but most other motorsport features are there. Like its bigger brothers, you can do up to 5D fuel & ignition tables. Pin count is fairly limited so make sure you have enough inputs for your application.

Maybe Ross was looking at the wrong .pclr because I don't see the RPM limit or base timing issue either? The short pulse width adder doesn't look correct but I don't think it will have much impact since you have small injectors they wont see much "short pulse width" However, he is right about your charge temp correction. Also something has made your whole fuel table wrong - this should resemble VE if everything is setup right so you should see numbers of about 50-105%, yours only ranges from about 3-17%? Some of that error I think is possibly from your "injector rated fuel pressure" and "base fuel pressure" settings which both seem a bit odd? With this fuel table so far wrong I suspect that your inst. fuel consumption calc will never be correct either. Also, I just noticed Fuel Density and fuel density temp coef are wrong too so I think you are going to have to retune this thing eventually. Sorry I know this doesn't help your dash issue either, just posting for your info.

No you cant really do this, What you need is an analog voltage output and the link ECU's don't have this natively. You could use a PWM signal and use a resistor/capacitor network to smooth it into simulated analog signal but you will need a good understanding of electronics and signals to get that right. I really cant see any reason why you cant connect both the gauge and ecu to the same sensor? Have you tried?

Hi Spyder, I took a brief look over your log, it mostly appears that the engine is running ok. What is the issue you are having? There's a few things I'd change like your TPS appears to be a switch type (or possibly faulty) so you have no acceleration enrichment working. I'd be prepared to build you a map but when working remotely I have to rely on you to get most of the basic fundamentals right such as the trigger Cal and fuel pressure etc. Are you capable of using a timing light etc and checking these basics with some direction from me? where are you in the world?

Has the main fuel table actually been tuned yet? Most fuel compensations such as cranking, warmup, post start etc are all based on a percentage of the main table, so until your main table is tuned these will all be wrong. It's best to do the main table first then tweak the starting comps later otherwise you will end up doing everything twice. If its running very rich under all conditions then the quick fix would be to just drop the master fuel a little. Also I seem to remember those stock injectors used to be prone to leaking - so it may pay to check that too. It was probably 20 years ago that I last worked on a 12A turbo so there probably aren't many injectors that are in good condition today...

The link will drive the 1zz &1nz coils fine, you can wire 2 per channel, direct to ecu. I have used these many times. If you're buying new, ensure they are genuine denso/toyota as at least here in NZ there are a lot of very nasty Chinese copies about. I had some come to me that sent a high voltage spike back out the trigger wire with every spark event.

For your accel enrichment, try the deadband at 3kpa. What size injectors does this thing have? You have 27% DC at 2000RPM and 100KPa, so if your fuel mixture is anywhere near correct then that indicates you are going to run out of injector very quickly. On the otherhand if your injector size is realistic then you must be running rich as hell which could explain your misfire. Your ignition table is also very conservative under at light loads so that's going to make it feel pretty dead. I would be adding about 10 deg to many of those sites under 100KPa.

Aux 5 is the output that controls your CE light. In your .pclr the Aux 5 is set up as a "GP Output" that switches on any time the engine RPM is above 5700RPM. So basically it is set up as a "shift light". If you want to restore the check engine/fault code function to this light just change the Aux 5 output function to "CE Light". image url upload

We really need to see your .pclr and a log, a screen shot does not give us much info. If you don't want to post your cal file publically then you can email it direct to Link support. Are you on the latest firmware? There were some issues with CLL and CAN Lambda prior to 5.6.3

When you say "correct reading", what information do you want to display? Normally in PC link a NB sensor is set up only to display voltage - since the only info the ecu needs to know from it is whether it is above or below the CLL dither voltage setpoint.

Yes, and a log would be helpful too.

Have you done the trigger calibration already? If you can post a log of a start/cranking attempt that might give us some clues where your issue is. Follow this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

See the red arrows in picture below, this is how you set the sensor input to use Cal table one etc. Also did you already try the Honda calibrations (blue arrows)? If you post your .pclr file and a log of a cold start I will take a look and see if I can improve it. picture uploading

Since it is described as a rate then Bigger number = faster to turn off. If you can get a log of the problem and post it here we should be able to get to the bottom of it.

I havent studied your log in great detail but it looks like your main issue is the post start enrichment table is filled with -100% so that is taking all your fuel out after cranking enrichment ends. Set post start enrichment to off for now. free upload

Both of these connections are duplicated on the other plug so you probably have their "mates" connected and you can ignore these unconnected pins. If you are not going to use these I would extract these pins/wires from the ecu plug so they dont act as antennas. "Shield ground" would be connected to the screen/shield inside trigger (& sometimes knock sensor) wiring. "Ground out" is the sensor ground. This would be used as the ground reference for any analog inputs.

There are a few odd settings in your map but it would be much easier if you can give us a log file too. Can you do a PC log of a starting attempt and post it here. Follow video guide here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

Your idle control is done by a solenoid - so you can ignore the "stepper motor type" setting. As Brad mentioned earlier its most likely the RPM lock out thats preventing the idle control from working. I suggest you post a log of the engine idling and also a copy of your map so one of us here can take a look. Follow this video on how to do a PC log if you dont know your way around yet: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A

I haven't thought this scenario through completely since I don't have much experience when a GCU is added into the mix, but under "gear shift control" couldn't you just assign a DI to "Down shift", set the shift start and end modes to DI, then use the "overrun downshift throttle trim"?

Also, even if you find your injector current is within the allowable 5A, the other thing you need to be careful about with when driving peak/hold injectors with a "saturated" driver is the injector can overheat. I have never seen it myself but I have heard of cases where the injector coil insulation will basically melt and then it is a dead short on the injector driver. Then you have a good chance of frying the ECU... So maybe you will continue to be lucky - maybe not. If it were mine I would be playing it safe and wiring the recommended way.

That doesnt sound like a hall sensor. Most hall sensors have 3 wires and they are usually not shielded. Your description sounds more like it is a VR sensor. Perhaps give us a photo or part number.

Are you sure, the diagram is showing on my phone ok. Maybe try refreshing you browser?

Ok, for the power wiring I would suggest the scheme below. I'll take a look at the config later when I'm at a PC but I suspect the std thunder base map will work with this wiring.

Are you intending to use DBW or stepper motor IAC in your application?

Yes, notice they dont have any direct input connections on them? The input terminals come up from the base plate underneath that they bolt to. I dont know how they would use them on an RB - maybe there is some aftermarket base plate you can get for them without the electronics in it? A brief search suggests you can actually modify the OEM DIS base plate to bypass the internal electronics but it looks like a pretty crude modification to me: https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/customer/gm-dis/