Scott

If you can tell me the bottom board version number and send me your base-map I will have a look and come back with a recommendation.

We ended up getting a Bosch ICM instead and wiring the crank sensor direct to the ECU

I've written a guide on how I set up the logging to make more useful logs for my uses, track mostly but works on the road too.

Data logging G4+ guide

Absolutely, thats what I do... it helps with fuel economy when you've got the wideband set to be constantly trimming the fuel when cruising.
Do you already have a wideband kit for it? 
A few things to keep in mind...
1. Generally speaking the wideband needs to be mounted further downstream than a narrowband sensor, and it's very important that you have it mounted at the correct "depth". As in, the tip of the sensor should not be protruding into the exhaust stream at all like a narrowband does.
Generally they come with a bung that you weld into your exhaust, read the instructions for correct mounting location and position. 
2. Most widebands come with a Bosch sensor, there are two variants the 4.2 and 4.9 sensor. The 4.9 sensor has a better lifespan due to some design changes, I've used the 4.2 sensor and it now needs replacing after... less than a year.
So now I'm paying for the slightly more expensive 4.9 sensor on top of the original kit, the poor man pays twice!
The Bosch 4.9 sensor is used in lots of OEM cars and if mounted correctly etc is supposed to last 100,000kms if I recall.
Going to a wideband is definitely a great idea, not just for trimming fuel while cruising but it gives you invaluable information in your datalogs, if you ever go to the racetrack or whatever. If the car starts running rough you can quite quickly tell that either fuel is a problem, or it isnt.

I keep a little netbook plugged in, I datalog straight into PClink so records EVERYTHING rather than just 25 things. 
(Although at 40hz max instead of 100hz)
For me 40hz is proving good enough for trackdays / datalogging when cruising / etc. Not the ideal solution if you need 100hz, but it's a cheap option that gives access to all of the data. 
 

One thing to note on the plugin ECU is that all the grounds are to the same ground plane in the ECU meaning all ground pins are connected together.
On the Gen2/3 ecu the following pins are ground pins.
1, 14, 23, 26, and 46

LinkPlus G2 Wiring and Install Manual.pdf
EVOLinkG2 V1-3.pdf
LinkPlus G3 Wiring and Install Manual.pdf
WRXLinkG3 Installation Manual V1.7.pdf
LEM G3 Wiring and Installation Manual v1.2.pdf
EVOLinkG3 Installation Manual V1.3 publish release.pdf
AdaptaLink ALHV LEM to VL.pdf
AdaptaLink ALMX Mazda 1.6 1.8.pdf
AdaptaLink LEM G3 to VR4.pdf
AdaptaLink LEMG3 200SX 180SX long.pdf
LEMG3 AdaptaLink Instructions Short SR20.pdf
LEMG3 to Nissan GTS-GTR.pdf
LinkPlus G3 to Nissan GTS-GTR V1.1.pdf
AdaptaLink ALS2 LEM to Subaru V1-2.pdf
AdaptaLink ALS4 LEM to Subaru V3-4.pdf
AdaptaLink ALS6 LEM to Subaru V5-6.pdf
AdaptaLink AXS6 LinkPlus to Subaru V5-6.pdf
AdaptaLink ALTY LEM G3 to Yaris.pdf
Adapter ALT1 - Instructions MR2 Rev 1 ST185.pdf
Adapter ALT2 Instructions MR2 Rev2-3 ST205.pdf

LinkPlusbook.pdf
LEM V5e install & wire.pdf
LEMV5ConfigAndTuning.pdf
LEMV4 instruction book.pdf
LEMV3.pdf
EvoLink instruction book.pdf
IntegraLink book.pdf
MY96 instruction book.pdf
MY98 instruction book.pdf
PossumV5.pdf
PossumLink 44S book.pdf
300ZXLink.pdf
GTRLink instructions.pdf
GTSLink.pdf
MiataLink1.6.pdf
MiataLink1.8.pdf
323Link instruction book.pdf
InterceptLink.pdf
IgnitionLink book.pdf

Trigger two polarity is incorrect. Signal and ground connection need to be swapped.
What are you triggers settings set as?
I have seen a 0RPM reading when the trigger 2 mode is set to cam level. This would be incorrect for this application.
Triggers should be set as below.
 

Got a mate to drive the car today so I could adjust the fuel trims and pretty happy with the way things went after all the trouble. Thank you all for your help. I was starting to think I must be a bloody idiot. No more AC adapter for me thanks.
 

Hi Rob W,
You should not have any fear or regrets in the Link or no longer available ViPEC brand.
These ECU's are brilliant and same for the software.
I have installed and tuned that many I wouldn't remember.
I have never had even one failure.
Enjoy.
Regards
Dave.

Found it in the Help File...
Help is absolutely amazing with Link tbh... I'm just not used to having such good help files!!

Hi Scott,
Thanks for the help. The DisplayLink works again.
I'll take a look on the PCLink help files.

Good day.
Since I don't have neither the 1UZFE nor the 2UZFE local to me I won't be able to give you any confirmed validation. My apologies for this. However, the wiring fundamentals for solenoid remain the same so having this I think that a non-evasive testing exercise can be completed to back what has been understood about the 1UZFE.
With the use of the evap solenoid, I do believe it can be used as a bypass valve to aid stability of idle control. However, I think that you will find the idle ignition control strategy might be capable enough to deliver exactly what you might be looking for when it comes to a stable idle. In most, if not many instances, the idle ignition strategy is more than capable but for cases where the ignition advance available isn't enough to control the torque of the engine it is necessary to introduce an air bypass valve to feed the engine more air so it can be abled to produce more torque potentially; with more air then more fuel (energy) can be added and with this extra air and fuel the engine has a greater potential ability to produce more torque to stabilize itself at idle.
Different OEM manufacturers will have different strategies for this, but it's not uncommon to deviate from this when using an aftermarket ECU. 
Cheers.

Hi Mapper,
The G4+ black storm has 2 knock inputs. The main differences (compared to G4+ Xtreme) are less analog temp inputs, less analog volt inputs, less Digital inputs, less auxiliary outputs, and no on-board e-throttle.
Cheers,
Scott

Hi Charles, Thanks for the photo. That trigger sub-board is our 'single reluctor' type sub-board. To run the RB CAS with a changed trigger disc you will need a different trigger sub-board. We have these in stock and can change them over for NZ$150.

Been out driving it a bit and it's running great.

Saw an AE86 on the motorway the other night, just at same time that I was testing camera angles etc for some trackday footage.

Here's some old trackday footage from back with the standard ECU.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DBGYkttBwq8
you can see into the first corner that I'm having to saw at the wheel and modulate throttle to get the car to turn at all - At the time I had my LSD set to 2 way, with really agressive preload etc.
I found out that the Cusco units are adjustable so I pulled it apart, rearranged clutch plates, set it to 1 way only and took out some of the springs which set the preload amount.
Which made a WORLD of difference to how the car turns, steering weight reduced by about half, which is surprising considering it was a modification to the other end of the car.
It seemed really complicated looking at the exploded diagrams but was actually quite easy to dissasemble / reassemble. You can tell some thought went into the design to make them easily servicable for when clutches wear out etc.

Now that's a little off topic to ECU stuff, buuuutttt if I had wheel speed sensors hooked up then it would be easy to tell that the LSD was too tight, and wasnt allowing the inner wheel to rotate slower on corners.
I'm keen to get this setup so I can judge whether tightening it up a little or setting two way etc will be of any value. Currently it's great but it's always awesome to have some data to work from and then adjust further from there and see the benefits (or not)
I've added some ignition timing and sorted the fuel out in the high load/rpm region, and now the car looooooves to rev! Limiter is now at 8300rpm when previously it was 7400rpm with standard ECU.
Makes a world of difference, now each gear shift isnt so critical. The car is still making peak power past 7400rpm so it's been well worth it.

The last version of PCLink for G4  (V4.10.2) contains a toyota 1UZ base-map. If you try and open this with the last version of VTS software (V4.10.2) you will get a warning, but then the base-map will open.
This base-map is from one of our 1UZ-FE dyno engines.

Hi David, 
I will ask for this to be added to our request list.
Cheers,
 

Something else I had a play around with, was fitting a 3 axis accellerometer to the car, I found some online that have a 0-3v output and can accept a 5v supply.
Wired it up so that the X Y and Z axes were analog inputs for sake of datalogging at trackdays etc.
I thought it might be useful for datalogging cornering forces or something like that, however realistically without any conditioning of the outputs and just viewing the raw data it was fairly meaningless.

Looked something like this:

When you go over a bump it would affect all 3 axes so it was hard to differentiate one thing from the other. Also I think in order to work properly it would need some logic like the G-tech units where it calibrates which direction is "up" when stationary and then interpolates the 3 signals to show you forward accelleration, cornering force, etc.
Ultimately inferring cornering speed etc from my GPS software that I run on the netbook proved a lot more useful, only downside is that there's no way to correlate the GPS information with the engine logs etc. (Would be nice to be able to see if I was being wussy and lifting off throttle etc, haha)
So in the end I pulled the accelleromter back out to free up those 3 ANvolt inputs for other things.
The program called Racechrono is frigging awesome, it can tell you in real time how your lap times are tracking.
I use it with a 20hz reciever that plugs into my netbook via USB. The more recent version is for android but the old PC download version is awesome too.

It's really handy being able to visualise how taking a 'slow' line around a corner ends up faster overall when you can see it on a screen.


 
 

Hi David,
Most powersport applications do not run knock detection, this is because a knock sensor has difficulty differentiating between the mechanical noise from 2 stroke engine and actual knock. 
Depending on your ignition system type (direct spark being best) and the mechanical noise your engine makes, narrowing the window will allow you to increase the maximum engine speed you can detect knock at.
PCLink help has a little info on this, including a table. Take a look at:
PCLink Help > G4+ ECU Tuning Functions > Knock Control > Knock Control Settings  and then look at the window length section.

Hi,
I've had a look at your log file. I can see how the lambda reading is leaner as the log goes on. When I check the Fuel Table 1 reading at the same points it is even. To me this indicates that either the ECU is applying a trim of some sort (which I do not see in the log file), or something like temperature is effecting the tune. We do highly recommend running an IAT sensor. Can you also please supply your base-map?
Scott

Hi David,
It sounds like you have things set up correctly. My initial thought was that something else is being triggered off DI 10. If you post up your log and base-map we can have a look.
Cheers,
Scott