Scott

Hi Nigel,
When the PWM output is doing a PWM of anything greater than zero the Aux Output status will turn on. You could then set the idle control tables to 3D and set the aux output status to the additional axis. One trick with this is that a value of '2' is ON for the Aux Output status.

Scott

With engine running, and laptop connected, go to ecu settings>triggers>calibrate, then click on "set base timing".  This will bring up a new screen where you can set whatever figure you want to lock the timing to.  For you probably 10° is a convenient number.  The with timing light pointing at pulley, then adjust the "offset" number up or down until the 10° mark on your pulley/engine lines up.
After you click done on that screen you need to hit F4 to save changes to ECU.

Vincent,
Trying to get some effect by adjusting the main fuel & Ign maps as you have proposed will not achieve much.  With proper setup "two step" or launch control you should be well into positive pressure and not down in the vacuum region that you have highlighted.
Since you are 4WD you will probably want to use Mode 2 - this is commonly known as "two step".  It is a fixed RPM limiter usually combined with extra fuel and very retarded ign.  For this mode you would normally activate it with a switch on the clutch pedal as it must be turned off as soon as you start moving.
Settings for this aren't easy to guess and are usually done by trial and error.  Unless someone here has already done an evo with very similar turbo/engine setup to yours then you will probably have to play around yourself.  You also need to be careful of aggressive limiting if your engine has hydraulic cam followers.

Hi Curtis,
From the info you have given I think it is quite unlikely there is an ECU issue.  It is more likely to be a failed sensor, a wiring issue, or possibly something like the CAS has moved (I think remember reading the CAS drive sometimes shears or comes loose on RB's?).  There is no volatile memory that would be lost, reset or changed by disconnecting the ECU. 
The fault codes may or may not be part of the issue, they are all related to AN/AT inputs and are often generated when a sensor has been disconnected.  So they could be just from when the mechanic was working and he unplugged a few wires or they could indicate a faulty sensor or bad connection to a sensor (they could also just be a lazy tuner that never set the fault conditions right in the first place).  So it would be a good idea to do a quick reality check on all the sensors.  A quick test of the basics would go like this: With the engine cold (after car has been sitting overnight), attach laptop and turn on ignition - eng not running.  Air temp and water temp should both read similar values and they should be close to room temperature (say about 20°C depending where you live).  MAP should read about 100KPa.  TPS should read 0% with throttle closed and 100% with foot on floor.  Those are the main ones that will influence how the car runs.  Start car and warm it up, make sure air and water temp still give realistic numbers, TPS should be the same as before and MAP should be <50KPa at idle.  If you have access to a timing light it would also be worth putting a timing light on it and make sure the timing marks show the same timing as the ECU is commanding.
Read the help file about how to do an ECU datalog and if you can do that it might give us some further clues too.

Hi Lobezy,
The information I have says DI5 is normally used for the vehicle speed signal. It may be worth trying to set the Pull-up resistor in the ON and Off positions, and the active edge in the Rising and Falling positions. Try all the different combinations.
You will want to monitor DI5 on the Digital tab of the runtime value window (F12 to open).
Scott.

There are quite a few ways to do this but this would be my suggestion.  Your pot will be connected to an analog input.  Set the Analog input function to "Voltage 0.5V", name it something like "Launch Pot".
Set the launch mode to "3D Launch RPM table".  Put your Launch pot analog channel on one axis of the table (values should span 0-5) and usually non driven wheel speed on the other axis. My rough example below would allow your pot to adjust initial launch RPM from 3000 to 5500RPM.

We have a solution for the Link G4+ Altezza Plug-in ECUs in the final stages of testing. Once we are happy with the testing we will be able to upgrade existing G4+ Altezza Plug-in ECUs if they are sent in to us.We will do the upgrade and return shipping free of charge.

I would like closed loop for my water to air Inter cooler setup. ATM I have a PWM table setup with IAT and water cooling temp. 

Managed to get it running now...phew...
It turns out, the coil on plug wiring terminal on 1uzfe vvti is different to the norm. 
"Toyota coils: http://www.kaizengarage.com/images/toyota_coilpacks/CIMG2167_pinslabelled.jpg " is incorrect on 1uz vvti. The IGT signal is next to 12v on PIN 2, not PIN 3.
I now have to deal with all the water leaks from front and rear of the engine....oh well....

Pin 5 on the sensor side of the connector goes to the calibration resistor (built into connector). On the ECU side of the connector this pin should go to the MES terminal.
Scott

Hi, good on on you for helping your buddy.
The Evo 9 plug-in ECU will be very straight forward to get going on an evo 9. I expect that the problems you are coming up against are to do with how the Evo 9 engine wiring loom interfaces with the Evo 8 vehicle loom. 
Ign 3 Aux Output is correct for the fuel pump relay. You may have to try and follow the wire from the ECU.
For the IAT sensor, check and see if the engine loom connector is disconnected or plugged into the wrong other half.
For the ignition coils, swap them around and see if the problem moves with the ignition coil or not. this will help you identify if the coil is at fault, or the wiring.
The ECU controls all the engine functions, so the immobiliser should not create any issues.
Scott

It is safe to try with 276 degrees also. -84 or 276 is the correct angle for both m50 and m20.  
 
With igniter I mean an ignition module between the coil and ecu.  The m50 coils can NOT be wired directley to the ecu. 

works perfectly, almost matches AIM GPS wheel speed misses by 2 km/h, now ready to play with traction control

It's a good question, there is no non-driven speed source on an all wheel drive car. You can set the non-driven speed source to be the same as the driven speed source, however there will never be any slip, and if using it for launch control the launch control will disable if your driven speed source is faster than the threshold you have set.
Alternatives could include taking non-driven wheel speed source from a ground speed sensor, or a high speed GPS. Or you could use a timer or some other condition (gear?) to disable launch control.
Scott.

Hi Sama,
Great, that is the info you need. The 'Format' will be normal.
The multiplier and divider settings will control the scaling of the data to the CAN bus number. As the person from Bosch mentioned, these may need some adjustment to make tings read correct in the desired units (km/h?). Here is how the two different devices work:
ABS                         CAN Bus value        ECU
0.000000 m/s            0                             0.0 km/h  (0 m/s)
0.015625 m/s            1                             0.1 km/h  (0.027778 m/s)
0.031250 m/s            2                             0.2 km/h  (0.055556 m/s)
 
So 0.015625 = 0.027778x   ->  x = 0.5625. This is the multiplier you need to convert from the steps the ABS uses to the steps the ECU needs. However the Multiplier and Divider fields in the ECU can only accept whole numbers, so you will need:
Multiplier = 9
Divider = 16
The other settings from above should be the same. 
Scott.
 

The engineering team have been able to identify the root cause of this fault occurring, and a fix will be included in our next main PCLink and Firmware release. While we wait for that the advice is to select the area you want to copy, press ctrl+c, then select only the top left cell of the area you want to paste to (in the destination table), and press ctrl+v.
Scott

Hi Supra, 
The Force GDI ECU has 4 injector outputs, these would normally be used for the direct injection injectors. The ECU does not have any other dedicated fuel injector drives. Could you use some of the normal Aux Output channel set to GP PWM to control the port injectors? Possibly, but the control would be limited compared to how the injectors are normally controlled.
Scott

Hi Scott,
We found that the trigger wires for cam and crank need to swapped. We also found that the inputs and outputs need to change. They are not on the same pin location and just swapping around in the software and calibrating these makes it very easy. The ignition setup all needs to change as well unless using the SR20 COP system with the KA24de engine. We will post more shortly.
Rich

The position of the CAS doesn't matter, it is taken care of by the "trigger offset".
You must first do the ECCS sync on the trigger setting page (read the help file), then do the base timing under trigger>calibrate.

Ok everyone. We have confirmed KA24DE running on a Link PNP S15 system in a S13 chassis. These have become very popular over here in the States. People are turbocharging them and realizing that these dual cam engines can make some great power boosted. It is even better running a Standalone Unit with these to control the fueling equation in Speed Density VS swapping factory MAF's for bigger Nissan sibling MAF from say a Z32. We will have a build of this project posted soon hopefully on the website for you guys to take a look at. 
This just yet proves again that the Link Platform is absolutely amazing and versatile when even in factory PNP form. One engine to another in the same chassis utilizing the same ECU! What a plus for multiple people out there. Here in the US it is my goal to offer these findings and test these units with the proper setup procedures and base maps. Some things do need to be changed. But very minor. 
Thanks Link and the engineers for making such an awesome product!!!

Just thougt, how will you control 6 injectors with only 4 outputs? Simultan injection doesn't work with direct injection! 

Hi Sancho,
If you are hearing knock and the ECU is confirming it then you likely need to reduce your ignition timing in your main ignition table in the areas where knock is occurring. You should be able to look at the 'Knk Ign Trim' tables and see where the knock is occurring.
Scott

The Aquamist failsafe output (at least the one I have:  HFS4 v3) can be set to either go to ground or go high (+5v) on activation.  The characteristic is selected by a jumper setting on the Aquamist control module.
There are several conditions that activate the failsafe:
1. Low fluid detection
2. Flow sensor output is below lower threshold (i.e. pump failure, nozzle clog, meth line break prior to flow sensor, FAV fails closed)
3. Flow sensor output is above upper threshold (meth line break after flow sensor, FAV fails open)
4. Injection system is deactivated by the switch on the flow gauge
If you set the failsafe to go to ground on activation, you could then add a toggle switch onto that wire to short it to ground when you want to trigger the failsafe maps manually.  BUT, you'll want your switch to connect ONLY the Link's DI to ground, while at the same time breaking the connection to the Aquamist failsafe output.  Shorting the AqM failsafe to ground would be a bad idea.
I have my Aquamist failsafe connected to a DI on my Link and I have it set to switch between high and low Boost Solenoid PWM DC tables. 
I do not use it to switch fuel or timing maps.  Rather, I use 4D fuel and ignition tables and have the Aquamist's flow meter output set as one of the axis and RPM as the other.  So as the AqM's flow meter output rises (i.e. more meth being injected), the 4D tables remove fuel and add timing. I am still in the process of tuning this but it seems to be working fairly well.  But I am running 100% methanol only and don't need to switch between 100 or 50/50 like you want to.  You'd need to use fuel and ignition map switching for your purposes.
The one issue I am having to work around is that the AFRs tend to get progressively richer as the meth sprays, even when other variables stay constant (RPM/load/meth duty cycle).  My assumption is that since I have the nozzles just after the intercooler exit and there's about 2~2.5 feet of intake piping between the nozzles and the throttle body, some amount of the meth will wet the intake piping, but once it is wet, then the majority of it flows into the cylinders.  I don't see it as a big problem, however, as the reading I've done on methanol says you can run it richer than gas.  If I can get the AFRs to start out around 11.5 and drop into the 10's during the pull I think it'll be good.

Thanks Scott, I'll try that setup next when I work with running engine, now I had to do some other things with the motor so next time its drivable I try that. I'll inform if success
Thanks
Arska