Vaughan

I would be curious to see how the factory ECU deals with a significantly different pressure for one bank than the other

Life uses 291deg atdc from the gap which would be -291 btdc so that suggests you are somewhere in the region of 30deg off in your trigger calibration in the Link, note I'm not sure which end of the gap they use so if they use the other end of the gap that is 18deg away but I assume they are basing it off the tooth after the gap like we do. Unsure how they determine which half of the cycle though so could be ~-291 or ~69 not seeing any pictures Actually rethinking this now as that 291 atdc seems to be when cam passes but their crank tooth gaps shows the gap to be at tooth 2ish which could imply an offset of maybe 12? Either way I do think your current Link Trigger calibration is incorrect or at least needs better confirming.

Can you get hold of an oscilloscope and scope Trigger 1, Trigger 2 and Ignition 1 over several attempted starts to check to see if always firing ignition 1 in the same half of the cycle please. If it is always firing ignition 1 in the same half of the cycle then the next step would be to set the engine at tdc cyl1 on the compression stroke and eyeball where the cam teeth are relative to the sensor and where the crank gap is relative to the sensor so that we can ball park check your trigger offset. If you are seeing the ign 1 signal from the ECU on the LED light but not seeing the timing light flash that suggests either weak spark or it's being snuffed out, if I have issues like that I usually remove all spark plugs to decrease voltage drop on cranking and I have one spark plug grounded to the head but out in the open and connected to the high tension lead so that I can visually check for spark and so that it is easier for it to arc.

Because you are using 3d deadtime tables instead of 2d deadtime tables they are using some of the general purpose tables that can be allocated to different things instead of using the fixed tables only used for specific things. This means that when you turn the fuel mode off it de-allocates these tables and then when you turn it back on it reallocates them, in your case in a different order to how they were initially allocated when you went through turning things on and off, if you don't use the option to reset the tables you will see the values from what the table was previously being used for show up in the new location the table is being used. Given that you are using 3d deadtime tables it might be easier next time to just use the rpm limit with a 100% fuel cut (but no ign hard cut) to cut the fuel while you are cranking. The function each GP table is allocated to can be seen in the table allocation window down the bottom of the ECU settings menu. Where have you gotten to with confirming the ignition timing?

Trigger scope is happy, PCLog is happy. Maybe try pulling the spark plug out and grounding the thread of it while cranking so that it has less load on the coil and so that you can visually check for spark while cranking

Looking at your new PCLog the measured dwell time is changing so it is sending the signal to trigger the coil. Battery voltage looks good

I'm not seeing a new trigger scope in that onedrive folder. PCLog while cranking will show if it is trying, good chance it is not seeing a spark when cranking because of a loose connection in that high tension setup that is shaken by the motor or it could be something like battery dropping while cranking, regardless a PCLog will show what it is trying to do. Don't go changing trigger pattern.

Find a really basic one to use, if you do it on the power to the coil it could be picking up when other coils fire Also do the ignition test and look for spark at the spark plug to prove that you got the ignition lead in properly

Yes your staged rpm lockout is 2700rpm but your staging table is all 0s which is what I was referring to.

I wouldn't recommend toughing the ignition Main -> Spark Edge setting unless you know that the ford coils don't use the standard falling edge that 99% of ignition coils use. That is an excellent way to melt coil packs and your previous investigations seem to indicate that it is sparking correctly and the coil packs haven't melted so falling edge is most likely correct. For your setting your base timing you NEED to be clamping your timing light over an ignition lead between the coil pack and spark plug, not over the power lead to the coil or anything else. For engines with Coil on plug you need to pull the cylinder 1 coil out and push an ignition lead into the end of the coil pack boot with the other end to the spark plug, use the ignition test to confirm the connection is good and that the timing light signal is working.

Have you wired ignition drive 1 to cylinder 1, ignition drive 2 to cyl2 and so on? When calibrating the ignition timing with a timing light have you made a pair of tdc marks on the crank pulley by measuring near tdc for cyl 1with a dial gauge on both sides of tdc and then splitting the difference. Once you have that tdc mark for cyl 1 did you connect a timing light between the ignition 1/cyl 1 coil and the spark plug and then connect PCLink to the ECU, open the "set base timing" window, set the first box to 0deg, pressed enter and then cranked it over while the "set base timing" window is open to confirm that the spark happens right on that cyl 1 tdc mark? This is best done with fuel off and needs to be done with a timing light with no offset configured within it.

with sync tooth set to 1 it would have been syncing in the wrong half of the cycle half the time which would explain popping out the intake. That means that now it should be syncing in the same half always so if it is still popping out the intake then use try the trigger offset that is 360 from your current one (-325 to -323 based on your above numbers). Injection timing won't be causing a pop out the intake, the pop has to be caused by the intake valve being open when the spark ignites which means that it is sparking near the top of the exhaust stroke not the compression stroke.

Fuel table has some odd holes in it and you're not using bringing in the secondary injectors ever, lambda target table is a bit odd and I'm sure there'll be other things too but nothing specific to it not starting if it was starting on that tune previously to you fixing an inlet air leak.

Looking at your latest V1.2 basemap: turn off the injector drive reallocation, you've changed the ordering back to normal but best to turn off the setting in the Fuel main window too. You are still using the IAT Fuel trim and warm up enrichment table which both of which are accounted for in the charge temp table and so should be off. Out of curiosity are your port injectors high impedance or low impedance injectors? do you have a part number or brand/model name for them? Your Trigger 1 Sync Tooth is wrong, it should be set to 7 Your trigger offset is still set to 37, change your trigger 1 sync tooth first and redo your timing first though. The big take away from that though is that Triggers -> Trigger 1 -> Sync Tooth is still set to 1 instead of to 7 like I specified yesterday so fix that and then redo your timing with a timing light and if it pops out the intake still after that then change your trigger offset by 360deg.

You can double check timing with a timing light and if you want to avoid flooding it for a test you can turn off fuel and use a little starter fluid to see if it fires up. Can also do Ignition and injection tests if you want to check the wiring, there is no smoking gun that I can see in the tune or log so it'll be something basic or something silly that was altered when you fixed the intake leak. I did notice that it's not really drawing any vacuum when cranking as shown by the MAP sensor but I would have to see a log form before the issue to confirm that is a change.

injection angle shouldn't be a big issue for starting but ignition angle would be, definitely check to make sure everything is wired correctly. Also please upload a tune as well whenever you upload a log so that I know exactly what the settings were for that log.

Best to wire it as above, turn off injector drive reallocation and then test each injector using the injector test function to confirm injectors are wired correctly and then also check that ignition1-6 are wired to cylinder 1-6 respectively using the ignition test functionality.

The screenshot above is from your log, the PW value on the secondary's says it is triggering the secondary injector outputs. I have just noticed you have Injector drive reallocation turned on now with injector drives 7-12 ordered differently, why have you done this? For reference injectors should be wired Inj 1-6 to DI Inj on cylinders 1-6 and inj7-12 to port injectors on cylinders 1-6 respectively. have you done an injector test on injector 7-12 to make sure the injectors are operating correctly and are wired to the correct cylinders?

CAN instructions are in the gauge manual, https://linkecu.com/documentation/Can Gauge Online Manual.pdf. G4+ has different multi and offset values than G4X so the extended streams will need a slightly different setup but the generic dash part is all the same. Might be best to send an email directly to gauge art ([email protected]) as they will be best suited to help with app issues.

engine speed is working and it is injecting fuel and firing the coils, no cuts are happening. Is it perhaps flooded?

need to see a trigger scope to check what the trigger 2 settings should be. The maximum advance warning means that the ignition angle that is being requested by the ignition table and all the trims is greater than the Ignition -> Ignition Main-> Ignition Main -> Maximum Advance setting. you need to upload any logs and basemaps to something like google drive or onedrive and share a link to them.

Your ECU is being back-fed power through Aux 4, either connect the other side of the boost solenoid to an ign switched 12v source or use a spare Ign or Inj pin instead of Aux 4.

It's putting fuel in on the secondaries as it should be, how have you wired the injectors? Do the injectors tick on cranking? Do you have fuel pressure? What indicates to you that it isn't putting fuel in?

You've run out of forum storage, upload your log to one drive or google drive and share a link to it

You will need to set the Staged Injection -> Sec PW Lockout to 0.00ms, set the Staged Injection -> RPM Lockout to 0RPM and set the Staged Injection -> Secondary Injection Staging Table values to 100%. This will make it start and run on just port injectors. If you can point to the bit of literature I can clarify or correct it.