Steve Bull Posted October 8, 2019 Report Share Posted October 8, 2019 Has anyone managed to mimic a Davies Craig EWP controller without using loads of aux outputs. Is it best to keep a thermostat. I have removed the one from my 1uz engine but do have a spare inline one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 I think you might struggle with a G4. Attached is a G4+ map that I set up to operate similar to the davis craig controller for someone else before. It may give you some ideas. It uses a timer and 3 virtual auxes. From memory it pulses the water pump on for 1/2 a second once every 4 seconds during warm up, once water is above 50°C it pulses on for 2sec every 4 sec, then above 90° it runs full time. Elec water pump cycle.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Bull Posted October 9, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 Thanks for that but i can't seem to open the file was it for the G4, not the G4+. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 You will need to open that file in the G4+ software and then modify to suit the G4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jar Posted November 10, 2019 Report Share Posted November 10, 2019 Can the dual half bridge outputs be combined to run the pump? Davies Craig says 10A for the EWP130, but the documentation for the G4+ Thunder says max 8A on PWM output. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 10, 2019 Report Share Posted November 10, 2019 No they are not able to be combined. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Baker Posted January 27, 2020 Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 Hi. Did you sort this? I'm wondering what sort of Solid State Relay people are using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Bull Posted January 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 Yes got it sorted, i used the Crydom SSR. I have a few of them controlling the FIP's and power steering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Baker Posted January 27, 2020 Report Share Posted January 27, 2020 Do you have a link to this item? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Bull Posted January 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2020 ebay have them or RS Components UK Just make sure there DC and the correct Amps Controlling the pump is fairly easy just by using two timers and 2 Virtual outputs and a PMW table Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Baker Posted April 5, 2020 Report Share Posted April 5, 2020 Do you think this one will work ok? https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solid-state-relays/4914947/ And, do you need a pull-up resistor? I notice Haltech supply one with the relay they sell... https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-030202-solid-state-relay-100-amp/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AbbeyMS Posted April 6, 2020 Report Share Posted April 6, 2020 15 hours ago, Grant Baker said: Do you think this one will work ok? https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solid-state-relays/4914947/ And, do you need a pull-up resistor? I notice Haltech supply one with the relay they sell... https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-030202-solid-state-relay-100-amp/ that's what we use Grant , think that the relay you need to run resistor across the 2 wires controlling the relay; Adam did a good reply regards the resistor set up across some solid state relays sometime ago. Also the guys at Devils Own list a cheap solid state relay but I havent looked at specs http://www.methanol-injection.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=27&product_id=229 The Hella you can buy cheaper as well , no data if it needs a resistor fitted thou Also you need to work out what minimum on voltage is , some wont work below 3v so they may only work for 30% PWM output Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 6, 2020 Report Share Posted April 6, 2020 The RS one you linked to is only for switching AC so that wont work. Look for the equivalent but DC on the output side. You dont need a pull-up resistor, the Haltech ECU's dont have a pull-up on their aux outputs whereas the Link does. Most of these industrial SSR's arent designed to PWM inductive loads so I think you may need to grossly oversize it (notice the Haltech one is 100A) for reliability and you cant PWM them very fast, about 100Hz or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Baker Posted April 6, 2020 Report Share Posted April 6, 2020 Thanks Adam. Do you know of one that IS suitable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted April 7, 2020 Report Share Posted April 7, 2020 Not really, I've used the hella one a few times for fuel pumps on race cars with slow/small alternators but only smallish pumps at about 10A. They are rated for 22A, but a few other guys on here that tried them with higher loads said they overheat and reduce output after a short time. In the Megasquirt world the Dorman 902-303 (jeep) or Dorman 902-310 (dodge) are common and are meant to do up to 40A PWM. Never used one personally however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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