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New motor build, won’t start. Evo 9


Robsevo9

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8 hours ago, Robsevo9 said:

Also can anyone confirm if these blocked holes are ok? Evo 9 with mivec

IMG_9012.jpeg

Yes the blocked passages are supposed to be that way. Crank and cam triggers look correct for tdc positions. I see you are using a balance shaft elimintor. Is it a full length race shaft or is it just the stub shaft? And also the balance shaft bearings were flipped around to block the oil ports right?

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7 minutes ago, k4nnon said:

Yes the blocked passages are supposed to be that way. Crank and cam triggers look correct for tdc positions. I see you are using a balance shaft elimintor. Is it a full length race shaft or is it just the stub shaft? And also the balance shaft bearings were flipped around to block the oil ports right?

Yes for stub and yes both holes are covered also 4 oil squirters are blocked off… I’m sending the ecu to link for an update and to check if there’s anything wrong with it… the car should of turned on. I even removed my alarm thinking it was being creating some block. But nothing. Once I get the ecu back we will see

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1 minute ago, Robsevo9 said:

One broke before the rebuild it was in the oil pan (from previous owner). I couldn’t be at peace knowing that it might happen again after spending all this money 

hmmm, kinda an odd reason to just eliminate them. they actually work very well for cooling the piston and lubricating the pin and cylinder walls. They arent expensive to replace. As far as them breaking, Iv seen this happen because they get installed crooked or not positioned correctly. Then depending on piston design and skirt length, the skirts can contact and break off the squirters, More likely in a stroked engine, but most times they can be carefully bent into a position that doesnt contact anything and they will live happy there. Iv built many performance 4g63s and never heard of anyone blocking off the oil squirters. But many ways to build an engine. My suggestion would be install them for peace of mind vs remove them for peace of mind. I dont have experience with how a 4g63 runs with them blocked off so that would be word of others but they are there for good reason.

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2 minutes ago, k4nnon said:

hmmm, kinda an odd reason to just eliminate them. they actually work very well for cooling the piston and lubricating the pin and cylinder walls. They arent expensive to replace. As far as them breaking, Iv seen this happen because they get installed crooked or not positioned correctly. Then depending on piston design and skirt length, the skirts can contact and break off the squirters, More likely in a stroked engine, but most times they can be carefully bent into a position that doesnt contact anything and they will live happy there. Iv built many performance 4g63s and never heard of anyone blocking off the oil squirters. But many ways to build an engine. My suggestion would be install them for peace of mind vs remove them for peace of mind. I dont have experience with how a 4g63 runs with them blocked off so that would be word of others but they are there for good reason.

I wouldn’t know much, the guy who did my block is very good so I trust his advise. We will see how it goes I think this is like a what’s the best clutch or what’s the best offset kinda thing lol correct me if I’m wrong this is my first build.

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@Robsevo9 It could be, Like I mentioned there are many ways to build an engine, If it works without any issues then great! Just not off to a great start lol. So If everything checks out mechanically then you gotta start fishing electrical and tune related.. Ill keep thinking of why it woudnt start. Iv seen the mivec gears installed wrong on the cams and it will smash the alignment pin into one of the oil holes. Its hard to do but iv seen it. The timing marks will line up but the engine wont have compression. If you have good compression that is unlikely. Good evo 9 compression is around 160psii believe, can be more or less depending on piston specs. 

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30 minutes ago, k4nnon said:

@Robsevo9 It could be, Like I mentioned there are many ways to build an engine, If it works without any issues then great! Just not off to a great start lol. So If everything checks out mechanically then you gotta start fishing electrical and tune related.. Ill keep thinking of why it woudnt start. Iv seen the mivec gears installed wrong on the cams and it will smash the alignment pin into one of the oil holes. Its hard to do but iv seen it. The timing marks will line up but the engine wont have compression. If you have good compression that is unlikely. Good evo 9 compression is around 160psii believe, can be more or less depending on piston specs. 

Pistons are wiseco 6656M855, the micex gear is good and Lined up with the valve cover

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2 hours ago, Robsevo9 said:

Question! How do I know if the sensor on the crank is working? I took the timing belt off because I removed the head should I change it?

The crank sensor will be a 3 wire sensor. Check for Power and Ground on the power and ground wires. The third wire will be the signal wire and will change voltage while the engine is turned over. You should be able to turn the engine over by hand and see a change in voltage on the signal wire as the trigger passes the sensor. If no voltage is not present, or if voltage doesnt change at all then there is a sensor or wire issue. Cam sensors can be checked the same way.

As far as replacement, If you are unsure of the sensor, it might be best to just get a new oem sensor. I think oem crank sensors are slightly more expensive but I only suggest oem sensors and spark plugs. ILFR7H is the factory 9 plug number.

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26 minutes ago, k4nnon said:

The crank sensor will be a 3 wire sensor. Check for Power and Ground on the power and ground wires. The third wire will be the signal wire and will change voltage while the engine is turned over. You should be able to turn the engine over by hand and see a change in voltage on the signal wire as the trigger passes the sensor. If no voltage is not present, or if voltage doesnt change at all then there is a sensor or wire issue. Cam sensors can be checked the same way.

Thanks, I’m putting the engine back together this weekend and will test for that. Does the ecu have to be connected? Or the key on?

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2 hours ago, Robsevo9 said:

Thanks, I’m putting the engine back together this weekend and will test for that. Does the ecu have to be connected? Or the key on?

I would plug the ecu in. I actually dont remember if power goes through the ecu before it gets to the sensor or not. Easy enough to find out, just key on the car without the ecu plugged in and see if you have power and ground at the sensor. If no power and ground then try with the ecu plugged in. You can use a stock ecu plugged in for testing if your link ecu is getting checked.

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1 hour ago, k4nnon said:

I would plug the ecu in. I actually dont remember if power goes through the ecu before it gets to the sensor or not. Easy enough to find out, just key on the car without the ecu plugged in and see if you have power and ground at the sensor. If no power and ground then try with the ecu plugged in. You can use a stock ecu plugged in for testing if your link ecu is getting checked.

Ok thanks, I don’t have a stock ecu, but I will check with out it and when the link comes back I’ll test again. Can you imagine it’s the ecu that’s acting up? I sure do hope so I been chasing this issue for days

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11 hours ago, Robsevo9 said:

How do I know if the sensor on the crank is working?

On 10/24/2023 at 11:06 AM, Adamw said:

I dont see anything obvious in the log, it appears to have everything it should need. 

As already mentioned the log shows the ecu has all signals needed to run the engine and it shows fuel and spark being commanded.  All important sensors are working and giving realistic values.  

 

4 hours ago, Robsevo9 said:

Can you imagine it’s the ecu that’s acting up?

It is very very unlikely to receive a DOA ECU, they are all tested for 24hrs at extreme high and low temperatures with all IO monitored before shipping.   Especially when everything is working in the log and you have already physically confirmed you have fuel and spark, there is not even a hint that there could be an ecu issue.  

 

 

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41 minutes ago, Adamw said:

As already mentioned the log shows the ecu has all signals needed to run the engine and it shows fuel and spark being commanded.  All important sensors are working and giving realistic values.  

 

It is very very unlikely to receive a DOA ECU, they are all tested for 24hrs at extreme high and low temperatures with all IO monitored before shipping.   Especially when everything is working in the log and you have already physically confirmed you have fuel and spark, there is not even a hint that there could be an ecu issue.  

 

 

Thanks Adam, I’m just lost! Yes I tested the spark on 1-3 and it had…. I’m going to wait untill I get the ecu back and try again on all 4

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  • 4 weeks later...
17 hours ago, Adamw said:

Can you give me a photo of the cams with the cam cover off with the engine at TDC.  

 

It’s not allowing me to post a pic, it’s saying I’m exceeding the max total size 

Got it!

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IMG_9221.jpeg

7 hours ago, Tim M said:

No doubt very frustrating - but Link assistance will get you going - they identified an anomaly with my 4G63 build as well - thanks!

It’s not an ecu issue. Will they help if it isn’t? I’m getting spark, and last the car ran there was nothing wrong with the wires it would start right up 

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4 hours ago, Robsevo9 said:

So I just tested for compression on my brand new motor and all cylinders have 0 how does that even happen?

There's several ways cylinders can leak. head gasket.. piston/rings mis-sized/gapped.. valves not properly lapped or out of lash spec, cracked walls...  Also you sort of need a leakdown tester and/or permanent airsource (electric bike pump? probably too noisy) if you want to identify where the air is going - you can then listen at the exhaust, intake, coolant pressure cap, oil filler cap..

Best to ask the engine builder. I hope it's something simple.

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