Adamw

Try connecting it to a spare aux output on the ecu. Assuming that car doesnt have Mivec then Pin 39 - aux 3 will likely be free. Im pretty sure the evo3 tachos used to work connected directly to the aux so there is a good chance your will. If it doesnt work then that means your tacho is a high voltage type and will need a "tacho booster" added between the aux and tacho.

An example to try below. Connect one side of the switch to gnd and the other side to a DI. If the switch is normally open then the DI settings in the pic below would be what you want. If the switch is normally closed then change the on level to high and edge to rising. The settings below would give 40% cut and 20 deg retard for 0.15s. I dont think the engine will take much cut at idle so I would initially try 0% cut and just retard only. I have no idea what the cut/retard period will be but the 0.15s is a starting point.

Did you try the alternate CAN stream? Usually that is the cause of the abs light. Dont rely too much on the keystart/button start labels as there may be some other variable that determines the CAN stream. After changing that setting you need to click apply, ok, do a store, then power cycle the car to reset the dash.

Yeah that is an evo3 ecu, it will only be able to do wasted spark. There is no real disadvantage with wasted spark on an engine like this. Wire coils for cyl 1 & 4 to Ign drive 1, coils 2&5 to Ign drive 2, and coils 3&6 to Ign drive 3.

Sweet that looks more like it. I just looked at your settings in the first post. You will need to change the tooth count in trig 1 settings to 12. The ECU knows its on the cam so you dont need to halve it.

It should work out of the box with no changes. Our GTR ecu can take the ign switch input on either pin 45 (R32, 33 & JDM34), or pin 8 (R34 euro with NATS). Can you describe the issue you have.

That inner sensor isnt working correctly, it is giving you 2 pulses instead of 1. Its not going to work like that. Seems like it must be a design issue? Maybe as a test try packing the sensor out a bit with some cardboard under it or something to see if more air gap corrects it.

Try these. I have just set up some basics as examples. PDM CAN input I have set up as a single compound message. Differential fuel press is on the 2nd frame so check that is coming through. PDM CAN output I couldnt really understand how the indicators were meant to work so I have left channel 2 blank (this would be received as CAN DI2 in the ECU). You have traction disable set up in ECU on CAN DI4, but no traction button in the PDM so I assigned it to button 9 as an example. SteveBull.hwpdm CAN simplified.pclx

NC means not connected. Just disabling the aux is not a valid test, you need to disconnect them. I think tacho is unlikely to backfeed so I would forget about that one for now, probably the CE light is pretty unlikely also. All the rest you should be able to just unplug them at the device then switch ign on/off to confirm if it still stays alive or not. This ECU could only remain powered up either by a backfeeding aux or some voltage on pin 3 (main power supply). So if disconnecting the auxes doesnt solve the problem I would investigate what is happening at pin 3.

If it runs then the base map has done its job. You need to tune it now.

No, you dont have the same issue, you have an initial spike of RPM as the engine first starts to crank but otherwise it is staying in sync, the RPM and dwell are stable when cranking which means the ecu is happy with the trigger. What size injectors does it have? Have you tried a squirt of starter fluid while cranking to confirm it is not a fuel issue?

Correct, it will run direct spark with no sync but 50/50 chance of starting. MAP sync will be a good option.

That almost sounds like a backfeed through an aux output. Have any of the devices connected to aux outputs been changed, or perhaps any power supply changes to aux devices? Standard aux devices for this ecu are as follows: Tacho Turbo re-circ Wastegate NC Fuel pump relay Purge Canister CE light

The 10pin header is JTAG, the 12pin socket pads I think are for special coms - Kline/LIN etc. For E-throttle you can use Aux 1&2 with our external E-throttle module or add flying leads to make aux 9/10 available which wouldnt need the external module. Modifying yourself will void the warranty, but I can give you instructions if you wish.

Correct, Monsoon hardware V3.0 and above have knock control built in. I will get that storm website page fixed. The knock input pin is shared with DI4, so you can either have knock or an extra DI, not both together.

Is it the old G4, not a G4+? Does it still have the microswitch? Would the microswitch be open for the whole shift or would it just be a momentary trigger to indicate the start of a shift?

correct

I would guess when engine is at TDC 1 the "1T" marks would line up with both pink lines I have drawn. For TDC2 the 2T marks would line up with both pink lines. Most likely you can only see one of these references through the inspection hole in the cover. I think the trigger offset will be about -45 or 315. Does it have a cam sensor? You have ignition set to direct spark but trigger 2 sync mode is set to none. Since this would be an odd fire engine, the engine configuration would need the Custom TDC enabled and Custom TDC points could be 0,180 or 0,540.

Its better but still quite a mess. Something else must be wrong, its missing the ground or something. You can almost see a ghost of the trigger 1 waveform in trigger 2 so possibly the sensor negative is connected to trig 2 rather than ground or something?

It will need the tune checked before you give it a hard time. G4X is quite different than G4. It will be close enough to run, but I wouldnt be confident the fuel tune will not need tweaks.

Yep that caught it pretty well. In the pic below to the left of the pink box I have drawn you can see TP sub and main traces (purple & light blue) are sitting almost smack on top of each other - this is how they should be. Inside that pink box you can see TP sub - the light blue line starts to drift away from TP main, TP main remains close to target (orange). Since the RPM didnt change when the TP sub signal initailly drifted up I think we can assume that the TP main is correct (ie throttle hasnt moved), so it is the TP sub signal that is telling lies. Since there are no dropouts or spikes like you would commonly see with a loose connection, I would say this is more likely the sensor (throttle body) that is failing.

Yeah I would have expected it to nearly run like that. It sounds like it has a very weak spark or something. I have seen similar for example dumb coils without an ignitor wired direct to the ecu low current output. The coils will spark fine with ignition test when outside of the cyl, but when inside the combustion chamber under cyl pressure they no longer spark. Have you tried a timing light on on plug when cranking?

Have you got a picture of the crankshaft? Is it 180°, 270° or 360° firing angles?

The connector has 4 pins but if you look at the loom there is only 2 wires connected. Pin 1 & 2 are the magnet coil.

G- is the usual toyota convention for the trigger ground - Pin 39 on that ecu. Although either of the two grounds you have marked would do perfectly fine.