ClintBHP

You could start off by loading the Monsoon Base Map, reconfigure the trigger for 1ZZ, check static timing and then wire your sensors accordingly, adjust the master fuel until it starts. Should be a good start.

Its not in the Link notes, most people do away with the evap system, I found it in my own 350z notes.

On the Plugin most of the Grounds and shields are tied together inside the ECU, you can test this by using continuity test on a multimeter. It is important that ALL power grounds for the ECU are connected and are wired separate to the engine block. All the Sensor Grounds should be spliced and grounded to a sensor ground pin. All shielded wire should be grounded at the ECU end only.

I can do this in the UK if anyone needs it done over here.

Yes it will work fine the link does not use the switch anyway.

Did you buy that from the Link Museum shop in New Zealand ?

Where are you measuring the voltage at the battery or off the ECU ? If you are measuring 11.6v at the battery the alternator is either not charging. If your seeing the voltage on the ECU Software, then you need to measure your battery voltage and if thats ok you have a bad earth or positive connection. If all the lights are doing it I would guess and earth, but please check above first.

Yes of course it will be perfect for this, a basic out line is that each wheel will have a speed sensor and once calibrated 'slip' can be measured and then torque reduction applied. You can use physical sensors or in later cars you can read the abs CAN information and use that.

Nice

First thing to do it goto ECU Controls and Select Clear ECU Faults. 12 may be the EVAP Pressure Sensor (In my 350 notes it is anyway)

Trig 1 is Crank Reluctor type Trig 2 is Cam Hall Effect please post your pclr file so we can check

Try it save the map first so you can always go back It will probably be fine if the idle ignition control was setup. nice mk2 Escort

We normally power it off a separate relay but wiring it direct to the ECU 14v supply wire should work as long as there is no voltage drop on that pin while the Lambda heater is on, you can check this by watching the voltage on the runtime values - ECU Status (F12) Firstly I understand you probably have but please double check your wiring is as per the attachment I have added. Can you also check you are on the latest version of Firmware. Can I check you have all the 6 wires connected including the one that looks like it is missing from the sensor plug (6 - RE) ? Have you tried a new sensor ?

We use the ESR 10 Series, we also found they are so fast that you can double them up if you need more amps and they shut down if over current so if one fails no issue, we have not had one fail yet.

I don't see this problem on the SSD's we use here (the ETA ones), UNLESS the Supply which should be on pin (30) is connected to the output pin (87).

It’s not like they are expensive and that then opens up adding other sensors which can help you get the most from your car

You will need to repurpose the Ignition 4 for the direct fire for the extra leading coil. You then have 2 options I think: 1) Use an Expansion connector loom to change Ignition 5 to Air Con. 2) I have also seen people who disable the Fuel Speed feature and run their pump at full speed all the time repurpose the Injection 5 output to AC/Clutch

How is it tuned traditional or VE?

What do you want to cool it with? If fuel how will you meter it ? Could water/methanol injection be an option ? Then you can use an AUX output and 2 fuel tables.

On the Hella SSD relays the positive side of the trigger is hard wired to +14v input pin. As I said above if you were to compare it to a 'normal' relay, the coil + (86) is bound internally to the input from the battery (30) So the behaviour you see is exactly what happens. Link require you have a ignition switched positive side of the relay coil, which is not possible with this particular SSD relay.

No the coil + (86) is bound internally to the input from the battery (30) .

Its not a Link Sensor, the package looks the same as the older sensor but that would have a link sticker and be packaged with Link Branding.

The NPT sensors were labelled wrong that are actually BSPT I reported this a while back. The dirrerence is only 1 thread over an inch so an easy mistake to make.

Taken from: http://injectordynamics.com/injectors/id2000/ Fuel Pressure Offset Slope (psid) (µsec) (cc/min) 8 Volts 10 Volts 12 Volts 14 Volts 16 Volts 43.5 1455 950 680 495 375 2225 45.0 1475 965 690 500 380 2255 50.0 1540 1020 720 525 405 2365 55.0 1605 1065 750 550 430 2470 60.0 1680 1105 780 580 455 2575 65.0 1750 1140 810 605 475 2680 70.0 1825 1175 840 635 495 2780 75.0 1895 1220 880 665 505 2875 80.0 1965 1270 925 690 515 2970 85.0 2050 1320 965 715 520 3055 90.0 2160 1360 995 750 540 3140 95.0 2290 1395 1015 780 565 3225 100.0 2410 1430 1035 810 590 3300 105.0 2515 1485 1060 830 605 3375 110.0 2620 1555 1095 840 615 3445 115.0 2750 1620 1135 855 630 3515 120.0 2935 1675 1175 875 665 3580 125.0 3175 1720 1220 900 715 3645 130.0 3435 1755 1265 925 755 3710

Link sell a 0-150psi BSPT sender and the calibration is already in the software