0x33

Couple of things I noticed: - You can upgrade to latest firmware - Your idle status is doing some weird stuff, looks like a bug to me. I haven't seen it before personally, so might be a question for link staff. These are the possible idle status you can have, yet your idle status displays numbers that change as you are driving. Here is a screenshot from a log on one of my maps. Now compare your idle status from your log Not sure if that will have an effect on this jerking issue, but very odd behaviour. The idle status changing rapidly is also not common, as seen in some places in your log. - Your fuel map is not very smooth here Having 20% change between two cells is not ideal. Add more resolution to both your RPM & MAP axis in these areas if you need more fine control. - I dont have a lot of experience with E36 engines, but 470 degrees injector timing seems a bit high for idle/cruise areas. Try a range of timing from 320-470 in these areas and see if you can optimize the fuel delivery, this should have an affect on your responsiveness of the engine. - I've had a few motors with high compression & big inlets etc that want the opposite to what Adam suggested. Rather than 40-45 degrees ignition timing, try to reduce the engine's torque in these problem areas so it dosent try to fight itself as you in low load area. Start with around 10 degrees timing and make any ignition changes gradual and smooth as you work your way above 2500rpm. Again on your map you have areas where timing is jumping 10 degrees between cells, which wont be helping. - I don't know what injectors you are using, but I've had some injectors that react inconsistently at low pulsewidth. You can try making a virtual output that activates under the conditions you can identify the jerking happens under, then use that virtual output to activate a 4D/5D fuel and/or ignition map that either adds fuel or timing to try and help relieve the issue. Jerking is typically from too much torque or not enough fuel, so try and

You might want to attatch a log and a map so we can see what you are working with. Typically for e85 you will need a lot of crank enirchment to get the engine to kick. Once it fires, make sure you have enough post start enrichment fuel to keep engine alive, then slowly decay the fuel out, but not so quickly that engine starves of fuel. By the time you reach warm up enirchment (30s-1minute into engine starting) you can then start leaning out fuel mixture to whatever target you have set. But try and keep it richer for the first minute to help engine stay alive.

Before considering what your injector duty is doing, consider what your fuel map looks like. Modelled mode is meant to model airflow based on VE. Your numbers in your VE table make no sense. I've yet to come across any engine that is only 20% efficient on idle, typically this value is around 50-70 depending on cams etc. You have one of the following things going on: - Mechnical issue like bad fuel pressure, intake system leak, bad injectors, bad lambda sensor etc. - Tuning issue like: Incorrect injector data, engine data, charge temp correction, sensor calibrations etc. Below is the variables that the ECU uses to calculate fuel delivery with modelled mode. Go through and check all settings. In the past when I've had issues like yours its always either been a tuning error on my part or in some cases injectors were shit and didn't play well. If all else fails put the ECU back into traditional fueling modeand give it a quick fuel map and see if your scaling is still weird. If it is then probably a mechnical issue.

I want what this guy is on.

Check your USB connector is not plugged into the CAN port on the board of the ECU. This will cause a short on laptop.

Recent observation Customers keep turning to other ECU alternatives when there is no P&P option for VVTi Supra or JZX. Seems a bit of a shame. They usually don't want to foot the bill for an adapter harness to be made to work with a storm etc.

SupraLink was designed around US/EU spec twin turbo. You will find that on an NA supra loom there is no pin on B60 from factory. So what you will have to do is depin another pin from somewhere else on the harness, put that into B60, then proceed to do your wiring to do the boost solenoid.

If you use Aux 5-8 for JZ ISCV then you don't need the 2 switch live wires connected. Aux 5-8 are high side outputs and drive the stepper motors directly. Stock ECU requires the 2 switch lives as the IACV signals are low side.

Basically all Link ECU's will run speed density (MAP) rather than MAF, so yes.

Make sure to connect the AEM brown wire (Analog -) to a Sensor Ground (GND Out) on the Link. Without this connected your signal will not read correctly.

What car is this on? Some ABS systems more sensitive than others I have setup TC on many toyota's, and I can usually just T off the positive wheel speed signal wire, connect to DI and be on my way.

So you are running less timing on the Link but making slightly more power than the factory ECU which seems to be running significantly more timing. I haven't had much experiences with Subaru ECU, but I know that compared to most Toyota ECU's which seem to have fairly aggressive ignition curves, I can usually make better power with a less aggressive looking timing map. Could it be that the ignition values you are seeing on Subaru ECU are not the values used for final ignition angle sent to ignition system ? Perhaps the ignition values from ignition map will have some modifiers, or are higher because of X and you are not able to see this? If you could really be bothered to investigate, then I would get a timing light on the motor during a pull on the stock ECU. See if the light confirms the ignition values you see on the ECU.

What sort of knock detection are you using?

The stock 1UZFE IACV is a 6 wire plug. Two wires provide 12v (B1,B2) from EFI1 Relay, and the others are grounding signal wires from ECU for ISCV1,2,3 etc. Unlike the stock setup above, when you wire in a Link you only need to use 4 wires of the 6 on the plug. The Link is able to output 12v on ports Aux 5-8. Aux 5-8 will need to be wired to ISCV1,2,3,4 respectively. When you wire it up this way, you no longer need to have 12v coming from EFI1 to B1 & B2. You can just leave them unconnected. You will need to configure Aux 5-8 as ISC Stepper, rather than ISC solenoid. Here is a useful website going into further details about this sytem and provides pinouts for the plug. Watch out as the order of pins do not match the order of IACV1,IACV2 etc. http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/42947521/M-REL - 6 Wire Idle Speed Control Valve (ISCV) Wiring Once you are done with the above, you can now begin testing. I would set your Idle control base position tables to 0. Then open your throttle stop on the TB, allowing the car to start using the throttle body blade's opening, rather than the IACV. Let the car idle and get warm for a few minutes. Then adjust your throttle stop on TB to give you around 650-700rpm idle. Make sure your fueling and ignition timing in these areas are good enough that it wont let the engine stall out etc. Now you can go back to your idle tables, start in open loop and slowly introduce %DC into your base position table. At some point you should start hearing your idle raise. Make sure you can adjust your idle higher and lower by increasing or decreasing the numbers in your base table. If you can then you are good to go, and you can follow the rest of Link's help guide on how to setup idle. If all the above makes no difference then you may want to attach your MAP and a log of the hard starting in order to diagnose from that.

R32 GTR uses direct spark settings with a Link ECU from the factory. This will not change when you run the new R35 coils. Once you are plugged in with the new coils, I would go to ignition test and ping each of the coils to check that they are assigned/wired correctly. Once happy they are assigned correctly, you will need to enter in the dwell settings for those coils. I don't know the data for this off the top of my head, but maybe it was supplied with your conversion kit. If not I'm sure the data is out there on the interwebs somewhere. Finally I would get the timing light out, go to calibrate and re-adjust your ignition delay as I would hope you would need less delay now with more modern/simple ignition components.

Perfect, thanks

Hi, Currently running a Link Storm on a 6 cylinder engine. Recently added water/meth into the setup and since adding in 4D tables for fuel/ignition/boost etc I seem to have hit some sort of 3D table limit. So once I have hit this limit, any further functions that I enable on the ECU are available, minus their appropriate tables. To get around this, I then have to disable some other 3D tables that I can live without or work around, then re-add the new function I wish to add, and then it will add it's appropriate default 3D tables. This issue is rather annoying as I'm only about 80% done implementing all the logic I wanted for various control systems. I'm guessing this is a hardware constraint rather than a software restriction. So, what is the maximum allotment on 3D tables for a Link Storm? If I were to upgrade to an Extreme or even a Thunder, would I run into the same issue? Does each ECU have a varied amount of available 3D tables?