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True, can't disagree with that. However most boosted engines I map in modelled dont see 100% VE until some boost, hence the comment that something is wrong with OP's setup as high scaling and numbers don't seem right compared to the norm. Typically these sorts of VE numbers is an indication of issue with setup. Back to OP, Any reason why your base fuel pressure is so high? 4.4 bar static on such a small pump will give some problems if you plan to run any kind of serious boost on this setup. Personally I'd set base fuel pressure to 3 Bar and start from there. Your fuel pressure differential should be a flat line under pretty much all circumstances, which matches your base fuel pressure that you set. Any drop in differential fuel pressure means that your fuel system is bottlenecking somewhere. If its doing weird drops under cruise conditions, imagine what it could do when you go into boost and really put some load on fuel system, you might loose fuel pressure altogether if pump can't keep up. As for injector timing, to test this with your setup, hold the RPM at say 3000rpm. Don't change anything other than injector timing, and see where the lambda goes richest. This will be a good indication of how to dial in injector timing for a more efficient burn, which usually makes throttle response a bit crisper.

Please attach a log and your map. You might have your conditions setup wrong if you can't get the output to activate when expected.

Your timing on boost seems to be quite conservative relative to other 3SGTE's I've tuned. For sure some more power & torque to be had. Obviously with a higher compression engine you will need to be careful with increasing timing on 93 octane, be sure to have sufficient knock detection / audio equipment so you can dial it in safely. You have a large issue with fueling on this car. Firstly, the fuel map makes no sense in terms of what a typical engine's VE airflow model should look like. Your main fuel map uses VE numbers over 100% whilst not in boost, which if you think about it makes no sense. Theoretically you can only have more than 100% VE in a cylinder if you have pressure higher than atmopsheric pressure (aka Boost). So looking into your log, if you look at Fuel Pressure & Differential fuel pressure you can see that you either have a dodgy fuel pressure sensor or something really wacky is going on with your fuel pump, fuel pressure reg, block somewhere etc. Your log starts with you having 440KPA diffential fuel pressure, which is very high and not required, usually 300kpa is enough. Then later in the log whilst driving your diff fuel pressure drops to 3.6 bar, then proceeds to bounce back between 440kpa to 360kpa. Further to this, there are many points in the map whilst you are crusing where your fueling is very lean and could be contributing to the car feeling sluggish as the engine may not have enough fuel to pull cleanly through the rev range. Also you say the car is running on 93 Octane, but your flex sensor says you have 18% ethanol in the tank and someone has attempted to setup multifuel using two fuel tables that interpolate between each other based on ethanol %. However, another problem with this is the second fuel map its using to interoplate with looks like this: This is just flatout wrong and will cause issues and leaning out. Very important that if you continue to run ethanol that you get this fuel table tuned properly. Also injector timing looks very wrong, basically firing fuel when the intake valve is about to close, which will not help with the car feeling sluggish, throttle response will feel better if fuel is injected as intake valve is opening or just before it does (typically somewhere like 360-450 degrees). So yeah quite a few things to work out, specifically what is causing your fuel pressure issues.

To get a nice ping, I usually do like 5-10psi at RPM where turbo comes onto boost. If it's low compression engine you may need 30-40 degrees timing. I usually steady state the engine in that area until I get a good ping. From there I can establish if frequency and gain is correct for noise relative to the knock ping. Highly recomend that you use some form of det cans or alternative knock detection that you can listen to engine whilst you are testing this. Sometimes you can hear things that you cannot see easily on knock trace until knock system is fully setup and you can trust it. Also for your previous comment, use T88 1.6bar on stock engine. Very laggy and not much RPM headroom cause of stock engine, so bit of a meh setup. Not much stress, peak power is like 600whp and no torque relative to a newer turbo.

Yes the goal is the same, no one wants a knocking engine. However, apexi knock and Link knock work differently so you cant compare numbers of a apexi versus what you get on a Link. I'm not getting 265 counts of knock. The 265 is a number to represent the maximum "noise" at a given point that I deem to be safe. Anything more than this number will be consdered detonation and ECU will pull timing. You should check out the help file in the Link software, its quite detailed.

44nm If you have a built engine then I would just use bosch knock sensor, I only use factory knock sensor for stock engine. I've seen before popular USA wiring companies using cheap wires that aren't shielded for 2JZ loom, so also possible you could be getting interference. You shouldnt be getting such high readings just revving on idle, unless there is mechanical problem with engine or weird wiring. I don't notice any major difference in window size between 0-30 to 10-50. 0-30 seems fine for me, always knock trace picks up any det as I listen on det cans, so I have learned to trust it.

Make sure you have your distributor aligned correctly when you installed it. Check it out in toyota repair manual under ignition systems. If you haven't installed distributor correctly with engine at TDC, then your cam signals will be staggered compared to where they "should" be and the ofset settings from base map won't be accurate. Or you can just keep adjusting your timing offset until you find where it wants to be. Just go up in small increments until you find where engine sounds a bit happier.

Must be something related to your setup. Check you haven't over torqued your knock sensors whilst installing. Or maybe engine isn't stock, you are brave to rev to 8k on standard internals lol. This is a log of my knock trace using settings above, it is repeatable & similar on most stock 2J's I come across. T88 @ 1.6 Bar

ECU is not showing any RPM, as it cannot recognise trigger 1 or trigger 2 signal. So you still have a wiring issue somewhere. I presume this is an NA-T that you have fitted a GTE oil pump to, with the crank sensor and GTE crank timing gear?

There is no limits being applied by the ECU causing the engine to shut off, however have noticed a few things. - Your reported battery voltage is low. 12.5 with engine running. Either your alternator is shot or you have inadequate grounding / a weird 12v feed to your ECU. Either way this will need to be sorted as ECU will use different deadtimes & dwell times for injectors/ignition which may not suite what your hardware actually wants if they are being provided with near 14v. - Your manifold pressure delta is very spiky, again could be an indication of indaequate grounding. - You have no wideband connected, so had to know if you are running to rich or too lean. But I'm going to hazard a guess that maybe you are too lean, as the engine seems to cut off just as the warm up enrichment falls under 1%. If you have no access to wideband, then maybe under fuel main add another 5% to your Master fuel and see if you get a different outcome.

If you want to use AEM WMI progressive controller to manage the injection of the water/meth, then the wiring the Link is fairly simple. Connect the AEM Arm Switch (Yellow) to an Auxillery Output on the Link. - If you want the Link to trigger the progressive controller, say when IAT goes over 40C, then you can setup a virtual output with your arming logic. - Then use an auxillery output setup as a GP output using the virtual output you just setup. Connect the AEM Boost Safe (Green) to a Digital Output on the Link. - This input will be activated if the progressive controller detects a problem and stops injecting. - Use this input to trigger a map switch on the Link to a safer map/boost/timing etc. In the past I used the AEM WMI with AEM Failsafe flow meter. I wired the flowmeter direct to Link so I could monitor flow of system and setup safeties. You could also wire your tank level sensor direct to Link if you wanted to as well.

For a lot of cars I sometimes set up a flood clear mode if it's prone to being senstive to flooding. Saves me having to get the plugs out and clean them whilst trying to set it up for the first time. Go to Crank Enrichment settings, enable the 3D crank enrichment setting. Then setup your crank enrichment settings to something like this: Now whilst you crank if you think you are overfueling then you can go 100% throttle and it won't inject anymore, and usually engine will start. You can even modulate the throttle and see where the engine is most happy to start, and figure out from that I've your settings are too rich or too lean. Link Staff: Can cranking floodclear option be put on requested features, bit annoying to have to use a 3D table to make this happen, especially when working with multifuel.

I generally run the OEM knock sensor for stock engine 2J's if its a mild setup small single at max. Only go to bosch 2 wideband knock sensor with big turbo build that is a bit more mechanical and heavy duty. These are my settings for most typical stock engine 2J's using factory knock sensor. I find it to be quite reliable, always detects knock when I can hear it etc. You may need to adjust gain per sensor +/- 0.10 If you still have issues, then perhaps your knock sensors have been over torqued or you have interference on your wiring.

Can you attach your map file. I can't see anything obvious from the log that would indicate an issue with the calibration. Can you check your fuel pressure? To me it sounds like you arent getting enough fuel mechanically, hence why car stalls when you try to rev it. Please provide some basic specs for your setup. Types of injectors used, fuel, cams etc etc.

Couple of things: 1) Your have not configured your MAP sensor. Go to map sensor calibration and set it up. 2) You have no IAT sensor connected, or your wiring for it is bad as the IAT sensor is showing 5v for longer than it should and going into an error state. Once this happens the ECU defaults the IAT to its error state and shows 100C. In turn this is causing a fuel & ignition trim which won't help you with starting. To get the car started you can swap AN TEMP 1 function from MAF IAT to IAT, but ideally a dedicated IAT sensor near inlet is required. 3) Can you provide more details on which coils you are using? The help file for V3/V4 Subaru P&P kit states the following for ignition coil wiring If your ignition outputs are not working whilst testing, then I'd take another look at wiring.

Strange issue. Some of your settings for idle seem redundant, for example when you turn the AC request on the following things are happening: - Idle base position table switching from 3.7% to 5.1% - Engine Fan Offset adds + 1% - GP Idle Offset adds + 10% + 300RPM Idle Target - AC Idle Up Offset adds +8% + 100RPM Idle Target When AC request is turning on and off you have around 20% idle duty being added, which is crazy for ethrottle. I can see you have set a maxmium idle clamp of 4.7% so the Ethrottle dosent go to 20%, but this combination of settings seems like it can be simplified. If I were in your position I would start again with basic idle settings, change AC Control to Basic so you don't have to worry about clutch delays and lockouts. Spend some time dialing your idle base position target using Base Position target + AC offset, and get the engine to respond as you need with AC turning on & off with small changes. Once you have gotten reliable results like this, then turn AC control back to Full and continue tuning. If you cannot control AC & idle like you want to in basic mode, then maybe you have some other problem with wiring. Or maybe if the issues only occur whilst running in Full AC control, then that can be investigated further. One other thing I would change that is seperate to your AC control is your Idle Ignition Settings. Your ignition angle whilst idling is constantly changing from very low ignition angle to very high angle in a short space of time. This will not help with a stable idle in most cases. Reduce your idle ignition control proportional gain to something like 0.10 and tune this value until ignition angle is nice and smooth.

I've had weird issues with this using the same type of throttle body on VVTi Supra. Seems to be a G4X quirk, as never had this issue on G4+. Spent ages going round and round try to figure out why it thought H-Bridge polarity reversed. In the end I gave up on the auto calibration and entered the relevant voltage data for TPS & APS, going from my old G4+ maps and it worked perfectly. These are my settings that I've tested on two different cars and worked nicely. Some adjustment to voltages may be required based on your setup.

IAT fuel trim was used before VE mode became a thing on links a few years ago. It's still there as an option for anyone running traditional mode (although you can use charge temp approx with traditional thes days) If you are running charge temp table then you can turn IAT fuel trim off in most cases.

Attach your map and a log so we can help you diagnose.

Attach your tune file and a log of you trying to start it.

+1 for this.

Just to add to this thread. Been having hot start issues with wall wetting enabled on RB26 and 2JZ, usually between 2-5%. Was scratching my head as to why it was causing issues, but remembered this thead and disabled wall wetting and starts every time. Still not as fast as G4+, seems like it takes one engine cycle longer. Can the documentation for wall wetting and asynch injection be improved whilst you are looking at this. Maybe give some worked examples, hard to understand the balance between Async, wall wetting and accel enrichment.

Post your log & map for help with diagnostics. Check you are not getting any trigger errors. If there is no sync you wont get any fuel or ignition.

If you are using a 36-1 trigger wheel then you need to use Trigger mode "Multitooth/Missing". Then under trigger 1 settings you can allocate how many teeth the wheel has and how many are missing. Trigger 2 settings look correct if you just want the Cam tooth from the dizzy to be your cam signal. Maybe take your filtering back down to 1 though, don't use filtering if you dont have to.

I would second Adam's suggestion to avoid the innovate. They do work, but no CAN support and I've had issues with reliability on the controllers. On the flip side I have used close to 30 AEM X-lines with Link with no issues. Can wire it to use analog signal or CAN depending on what you prefer. If you are using wideband lambda then there is no need for factory 02 sensor