0x33

I turn it off normally otherwise closed loop and quick tune fight each other.

Dude. Look at what you are doing versus what the diagrams show. You have it wired wrong still lol. I've circled Pin 29 on the orange connector. You have cut Pin 36 which is your reverse light wire.

From ECU -> Splice into Pin 29 on orange conenctor.

Looks like you have wired it wrong. Needs to be A16 on the header above. Then Pin29 on orange 36 pin footwell connector

You won't damage anything, takes its like 6 screws to get the dials out. 1) Remove tacho gauge, add resistor bypass wire as shown above, then reinstall tacho 2) Add a wire & terminal into AUX 1 3) Splice the other side of said wire in pin 29 of orange 36 pin connector. Don't waste your time with a relay, really not needed with a MK4 supra imo

You don't need a relay. The Supra NA tacho requires a resistor to be bypassed in order for the Link tacho signal to work. Furthermore, the 2JZGE engine loom does not have a tachometer connection on Pin A16 (AUX1) from factory. So you will need to add a terminal to A16 on the ECU header. Run your new AUX1 & splice it into the wire going into Pin29 on the Orange 36 pin passenger footwell connector.

Guys its not hard, its three wires. Just splice FR+ and RL+ from ABS ecu into spare DI input on Link. Also put CSW to a spare DI so you can activate/deactive TC via factory switch. My opinion is that factory TC system is very intrusive and oldschool using throttle blade lol. Very easy to make Snow mode come on and loose all power in a less than oppertune moment. Link TC is much nicer as its just an ignition retard or fuel/ign cut to keep you straight. TC will never work P&P on most 90's toyota's, as the ABS and TRAC ecu is typically seperate from main ECU. This will be the same for any standalone out on the market. I can't comment on powerfc working with TC as I dont live in 1995 anymore and use such old electronics.

You will need to wire in a minimum of one front wheel speed sensor and one rear wheel speed sensor in order to setup G4X traction control. You can splice into the positive speed signals via the ABS ECU.

You might as well just turn on AntiLag to accomplish the same thing without having to sacrifice a GP RPM Limit.

Do you still get it with over run fueling turned off?

You guys really need to test wallwetting internally during startup or provide a lockout for it. I gave up trying to use it as it made every car I tried it have inconsistent start up issues regardless of what I did with cold start settings. Once the engine is running it works lovely, would be great if this could happen before next release as there was a big thread on this already.

Taken from PcLink help files: I find on most engines that firing the injector EOJ around 380-420 BTDC nets the most efficient burn in the cylinder. You will need to check this whilst tuning.

No link can control the A340.

Typically I earth both to the head and never had any issues, even with big boost cars. I've tried also grounding the power ground to head and signal ground to ECU and it also worked, didn't really notice anything different between either. Agreed with adam, you don't need your dwell times to be that high.

I believe they have stopped major development on G4+, so unlikely this will happen. Might have more luck with G4X platform, but TC works completely differently in G4X anyway.

If you can take a log and upload it along with your map file then it will be easier to see what issue you might be having.

Sensor ground

When you are on your primary fuel you want the ratio table to read 0%. That way the map is scaled completely for just that fuel. If your pump fuel happens to have E10 in it consistently, then you will still want that ratio table to read 0 as you need your first fuel map to correspond directly with that fuel and nothing else. Once you go to E15 or above by adding in ethanol, then you can start blending in your secondary fuel settings / table slowly as the ethanol content increases. Bonus points: A pump fuel that has E10 will have slightly different Fuel Density, Fuel Density Temperature Coefficient & Stoich Ratio settings compared to regular pump fuel with no ethanol. Try and find out if what each of these variables are for your given fuel if you want to try and make your modelled fuel equation as "accurate" as possible.

Fuel pressures and other mechanical bits seem to be behaving now. Deadtimes & short pulse width look correct, I've used same values previously with no issue on multiple setups. This table should be set to 0 whilst you are setting up your pump fuel map. Currently, whilst you are sitting at 15%, the following variables will interpolated between your first fuel and second fuel settings depending on ratio amount. Hence why your main VE table makes no sense and are very high. ·Stoich Ratio ·Injector Flow ·Fuel Density, Fuel Density Temp. Coeff., Fuel Charge Cooling Coeff. ·AFR/Lambda Target Do yourself a favour, and do the following cause you are going about this a bit backwards. - Drain tank and put only pump fuel in. - Change fueling equation mode to "modelled" rather than "modelled- multifuel" - Set up a proper AFR target table that isnt pig rich, and setup a charge temperature table similar to whats shown in help file to get you started. - Tune car fully on pump fuel, get everything dialed in and working as intended. Save file, and make copy. Turn the newly copied file into your Flex Tune file. - Open new file and change fueling equation mode to "modelled - multifuel" - Now tune car using ethanol and fill out all required maps etc for flex tune. - Enjoy

Nice spot on the polarity! Suprised it ran like that with no errors. My general rule with the dwell time is to test the setup and try and find the least amount of dwell that I can run for a given condition. Less dwell = less heat & strain on the coil over a period of time. So for your example, just set 13/14v to 2.0ms and go test the car. If you have slight break-up then increase in small increments until you find the sweet spot. Sometimes, less is more. Some coils can do weird things with too much dwell and possibly damage themselves. Edit: Might be worth rechecking your base timing after swapping polarity on trigger.

I won't say that you don't have a triggering issue, but I can't think of a time where I had trigger issues that didn't cause a sync error to be present, or have some crazy RPM spike for only a few millseconds. I'm sure Adam can give a better input regarding trigger issues without a trigger error. With that said, this smells like a ignition breakup issue to me. The slight disturbance in the map signal around the areas where you have the issue shows the misfire, but I'd agree that is does not seem to be relating to your fuel mixture (although it is lean). Your dwell times are what I would consider very high for 1ZZ coils. Averaging 3.6ms. I typically run between 2.0 - 2.4 ms between 13-14volts with stock spark plug gap ~0.030'' on high boost JZ motors fairly regularly. As you seem to be running E85, it's also worth checking that you don't have debris in your fuel system clogging an injector. Had a similar issue a while back when dirt clogged injector, which started off as a misfire under high boost, then low boost then misfire under most conditions.

Probably worth attaching your tune and a log whilst the issue is occuring so we can rule out if its an issue with software or more hardware/electrical.

I had issues with fuel pressure sensor reporting some funky values. Turns out it was a knock off 150psi pressure transducer, replaced with a KA sensor and diff fuel pressure was rock solid.

Just to update this thread. Have a supra I'm doing currently on G4X SupraLink ECU. Stock engine, stock knock sensors with small single turbo. The noise I'm getting from knock sensor is much like your example Floppyz. This car is running wiring specialities loom, and the knock wiring looks unshielded. This loom seems to be reacting different to stock loom which is shielded. Shall see how the mapping session goes and will update if I notice anything else weird with this loom.

Assign your switch to a spare digital input on PCLink. Then setup the following to be similar. Fill table two wastegate duty and boost target map as desired. Every time you press the switch you will switch to your secondary boost tables for higher boost and hold it for 10 seconds.