koracing

Link can also add wires to your PnP unit to directly drive an e-throttle output without the external e-throttle moduel, as well as possibly adding more inputs to cover the addition analog signals you would need. You would have to be willing to be without your ecu for the time it takes to get this done, however.

If the coils were fired later, that would change the ignition timing, so I would not think it would happen later, but just charge sooner to have the same end point (firing point). Of course confirming your timing doesn't change with a timing light should always be a part of this operation. You can set your idle timing or fixed timing value in the trigger calibration window to whatever you want so you can also check (if you have an advance timing light) whatever value of advance you want (like the same values you run on boost for example) to see that the timing there also sync's. You can also rev the car up to whatever RPM you want to see that the timing still stays the same at higher RPM (ignition delay setting).

Once timing is sync'ed to match 15 with the window open, and you then close that window, all timing is controlled by the tune. Syncing just makes sure that what you enter into a timing table is what timing you are *actually* running. If it's not running how you want it's up to the tuner to make it run right at that point. Adjust idle ignition values if that feature is turned on, and change values in the timing table as needed to reach the desired feeling/goal (aka tuning).

Tuning related would aslo be my guess without any data logs to review.

Does not look like a G4+ - missing a 10 pin header, so likely a G4 - but @Adamw should know for sure.

First off - make sure you're using a spark plug lead between the bottom of the coil and the spark plug for the timing light inductive clamp (direction of the clamp also matters) as clamping onto the small wires running to a coil aren't going to be accurate. Once you have the trigger calibration window open - timing will be fixed to the top value. If yours is 15 now, you can enter 0 *then press enter* and it will change the fixed timing value to zero. If the timing light is not matching change the next value down - trigger offset - by 5 or -5 and *then press enter* and see if the mark moves closer or futher from the desired position on the crank pulley. Repeat and adjust this value until the computer and the engine values match or sync up making sure to *press enter* after every time you change the value or it won't actually change anything.

Based on the pin designations and 3SGTE application, I'm assuming that's an ST205X. To delete the distributor you will need to run some other type of crank position and cam position/sync sensors. Once you have those you can wire to the 4 wires running to the distributor originally. The original coil wires (Black/red stripe +12V key positive, and white/blue stripe *usually* Coil negative from igniter) can be repurposed The distributor should have 4 wires: Black, Green, White, and Red. NE needs to go to crank sensor signal or Trig1, G1 needs to go to Cam sync signal or Trig 2, G- is sensor ground for both/all, and G2 is a redundant cam sync input not normally used.

That looks like the wrong software analog input screen (Looks like G4+): In the G4X/G5 tuning software you'll have to go to each sensor and pick which input and calibration you connected for each sensor.

Yes you would use any of the Volt inputs 6, 7, 9, or 10 for the pressure sensors.

If your using a TST185X like it says in your profile, you should load the 3SGTE sample map for the ST185x and use those trigger settings. Given the OEM triggers are reluctors (sort of AC waves) you want falling for sure, but that's not even an option to select in the G4x/G5 software. I don't know why someone stated above that and older ecu would want to use Rising with a reluctor...? I'm not familiar with anything pre-vipec. *Every 3SGTE distributor* has 24 tooth NE pin for crank position/Trig 1 (position: at the cam) and 1 tooth Trig 2 sync (Cam Pulse 1x) with two separate sync pickups - G1 and G2 (redundant) and 360 crank degrees (180 cam degrees) apart.

The only times I've ever had a car with a half lit CEL was due to poor grounding. These weren't on Hondas, but I suspect you are having some voltage back feed throught he CEL bulb for a similar reason. Clean/check/improve all grounds and see if that helps.

I don't recall which specific ecu it is - I just know it has been "custom" wired. Hypothetically: If there were a solder bridge or a bit of metal connecting the DI1 pin to the Aux10 pin next to it, would putting 12v onto aux10 backfeed into powering the ecu even if the Aux10 isn't being used or pinned to anything else? EDIT: I just tried powering up an different plug-in ecu on the bench by providing power to the Aux10 pin, and ground to ECU ground and sure enough it powered up. I think this must be what is happening on the AW11 I've remoted tuned. Yeah I've just spent some time trying to replicate this on the bench on this other unit and it's acting as it should. This bench ecu and the customer I remoted tuned were both on firmware 6.25.5. Not sure what's going on with that unit, but the simple solution is to use a different GP output for now or leave it with reversed logic on his GP OP 9. I tried making connection between Aux 10 output and DI 1 also just to make sure that didn't somehow cause a reversal of logic if that is something the customer's unit has an issue with. I'll see what the customer wants to do, but I suspect he's fine with the solutions in place for now. I will update this thread if that changes.

I've tuned many turbo MR2s with the stock knock sensor just fine, or the common GM replacement sensor.

Make sure you are using resistor spark plugs, try an active USB cable extension (I prefer the Belkin F3U130-16), and move the laptop outside of the car to see if it helps.

Pressure sensors will need 5v, ground, and a signal wire run to an AN Volt input. On the EVO8 plugin you should have one of the expansion connectors with +5V you could split to both sensors, Ground you split to both sensors, and then a couple AN Volt inputs (Labelled VOLT # on the board). Just pay attention to which AN Volt inputs you're using and set those oil and fuel pressure inputs. The sensor calibration will also need to be known and entered for the sensors you use.

The AEM X-Series widiebands with CAN have proven to be very reliable for me. Have yet to have to even replace a sensor on any I've in stalled in the last 4-5 years. CLL with long term trims can help dial in your fuel table if you make sure the LTT table matches break points on your fuel table (easiest way to start by exporting the fuel table, then importing it to the LTT table, and then reset the LTT table values to all zero). if it is improving as you drive, then applying the LTT table Normally I would suggest not using closed loop on boost at all - or at least abovea bout 120kpa, and certainly limit it's ability to adjust to negative values in any boost.

Are you using the factory dual/staged injectors or an aftermarket set of single injectors? Also the stock Hayabusa displacement is 1340cc I'm pretty sure - you have it set to 1300?

Any of the base tunes provided are most likely *not* going to be the same values as a stock ecu. My personal experience with Toyotas is that the OEM ecu is extremely aggressive on ignition advance and relies heavily on the knock detection system to keep the motor safe and pull timing. Most often when switching to engine management I've found that all things being equal (boost levels, standard pump fuel, etc.) power is slightly lower on relatively stock engines once tuned and "safe". It's going to take a lot of fiddling to get the knock thresholds right, as well as the detection frequency and gain levels right I find. A 1jz should have 86mm bore and so use the 6 or 7khz narrow band unless the signals are all to high even with a gain of zero then go to the second order frequency of 13 or 14kHz and play with gain again to ideally get a clean run to redline with the vehicle not experiencing knock and maximum knock values in the 600-700 range.

You should also be able to determine a vacuum leak by covering the throttle body inlet completely with your hand while idling and it should kill the motor. If not there is definitely a significant vacuum leak.

Having just tuned one of these engines in an AW11, it was very tricky to get the idle control to work right. It's like there's almost no resolution below about 35% duty, and was very tricky to get the right balance of timing control, idle control range (closed loop), base positions, throttle stop screw settting, and the idle air bleed setting. Stock ecu seemed to have little to no issue controlling idle, so I suspect there may be a frequency response issue versus newer toyotas as I was using the "normal" 3SGTE base map frequency numbers. Also the vacuum diagrams and all the VSVs on that motor are pretty tricky to get just right if you're not familiar with them (which I certainly was not, but did just mess with it last week). I would start by backing off the throttle stop set screw until you are certain the throttle is all the way closed, and then make it just crack the throttle off of the bottom most position maybe 1 turn of the set screw (2.5mm hex key/allen head with a 8mm jam nut). Close the idle air bleed (slotted screw under the black cover/grommet on the right side of the throttle body facing up) all the way in and then back it out one turn. Make sure your idle speed base position is set to 35%. Adjust up the idle air bleed screw (back it out) until it idles near your target idle speed. If you run out of idle air bleed (i.e. you back it all the way out or more than about 4-5 turns out), close it down to 1 turn out again, and adjust the throttle stop screw to open the throttle 1 to 2 more turns and repeat. Once you get it idling close to target, turning on idle ignition control can help it get the last little bit to target.

Also take a look at the voltages on your trigger signals and adjust your arming thresholds to at least half of the average peak positive voltage values to eliminate the chance of noise messing up your signal readings.

Theoretically every time you hit capture it will capture a new scope. Do you know if your Atom is a V3 version? Previous versions did not have a full analog trigger scope signal reading ability if memory serves. You do need to make sure that the engine is turning when you hit capture of you will just be looking at noise. Can you post a copy of your tune and trigger scope capture file?

I was remote tuning a customer car with a G4x plug-in custom wired to a 4agze, and setting up the check engine light to turn on if he went lean on boost while street driving. For some reason it appears that the logic is reversed on GP Ouput 9 versus using GP Output 5. This started with me setting this up the way I normally would using virtual aux 2 on GP output 9, and the check engine light was turning on when it should have been off. I next tried Virtual aux 3 on GP Output 9 and same thing. I then set up virtual aux 2 with the same logic on GP Output 5 and it worked as it should. I'll post a pic showing what I'm referring to: As you can see the Virtual Aux 1, 2, and 3 are inactive. Given that and the logic for GP Output 6 (Aux 5 output) is clearly showing it should be active if Virutal Aux 3 is not equal to active (aka equal to inactive), yet it is showing inactive. If I set the logic to Virtual Aux 3 = Active, the check engine light turns on - Aux output 5 becomes active. I plan to test another plug-in G4x to see if this is a software/firmware bug, but thought @Vaughan or @Adamw could test this to see if it is an isolated case or not. Another issue with this car prior to this was the brake switch input (1989 4AGZE AW11). It is a normally closed switch that opens when the brake pedal is all the way up, and closes providing 12v when the pedal is pressed. The brake/STP pin input was run to DI1. If the brake pedal is pressed with the ignition off, the ecu will power up. It was back feeding voltage from that input to power the logic on the ecu. Is this a problem just on DI1? I've never seen that happen before with a brake input. I had the customer depin this pin from his engine harness for now since we weren't using that input for anything. At first this was on the September G5 PC Link software/firmware, and as part of trouble shooting I updated to the December released firmware. This made no difference.

If it's flooding then the plugs will be wet with fuel. Can you take a log of it cranking now that it won't start? Does it cough or try at all or is it not making any effort to fire? Large duration cams will certainly reduce vacuum at idle by a lot - some engines will idle at only -30kpa or less MGP (70kpa or higher MAP) with larger cams. Do you have a lambda sensor fitted? I see you have on listed on AN Volt 2 input, but there's no calibration set for it. Given a previous spun rod bearing, an oil pressure sensor might be good to add as well with some failsafe strategy built in. I strongly recommend installing (and personally always install on any Link equipped cars in my shop) a fuel pressure sensor which can often aid in trouble shooting, and is great for setting up automatic fuel pressure compensation. Does it try to start any better with a spray of starting fluid still? Until you can get it to idle for more than a few seconds, it's going to be hard to dial in - also without a wideband signal giving some clue it will be very hard to dial in just looking at your data.

You'll also need to assign that output to the Tacho function.