koracing

Is there any issue setting the stepper to reset at key on instead of using a hold power to reset at power off?

There's about 17 pins that are different betweent the two. It's doable to repin, but a bit of a pain. I have a spread sheet with the pin comparison: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/w62xkd6p0tcpiitigunzc/Caldina_AltezzaLink_Pinout.xlsx?rlkey=0tkfkd9ik153apvgisx6dmzuh&dl=0

Given the Link works well on other Toyota engines of this era, I don't see any reason it won't work on the 7M as well. Your trigger is going to be the same 24 tooth cam mounter trigger wheel for crank position and a single tooth cam sync (inside distributor or CAS). Connector wise I think most 7MGE in the late 80s are going to be similar to the 4AGZE and Gen1 3SGTE engines (from the 88-89 alltrac) - which is also the same connector as the VR4 mitsubishi (Yellow 52 pin ecu header with 3 plug cavities). The 7M is goin to have semi-sequential injection (only 3 injector outputs), a single ignition output (with distributor), and a stepper motor for idle control, so in theory you could possibly repin your harness to be pnp with the VR4 Link G4x Xtreme Plug-in. Alternatively an adapter harness could be made to go from any of the link wire-in options that support stepper motor idle control with Aux outputs 5, 6, 7, and 8 (Storm wire-in, Xtreme wire-in, Fury wire-in, G5 Voodoo wire-in), but at a higher cost, or any of the other available Xtreme Plug-in ecus with the approriate I/O exposed. 87 7MGE ECU Pinout:

If it needs heaps of throttle to fire up after running for 10 minutes, then you're way to rich most likely on your startup settings when warm. If you weren't getting a proper ECT signal at the time then that would explain some of that as the startup settings rely on ECT for one axis of the enrichment tables on just about every table. Did fixing the ECT input help at all? Try large changes to master fuel if not, and see if it improves with a lower number.

I've moved my tuning shop from near sea level to a location that is about 2000ft elevation at the end of 2021, and I have customers travelling back and forth. I've been trying both methods and it *seems* like the fueling has been more consistent still with MAP on the fuel table than with MGP. Granted I'm mostly working on turbocharged 3SGTE enignes so maybe that's compensating in some way. I feel like barometric compensation may be more of an issue for a naturally aspirated motor, but I could be wrong. Typicaly barometric absolute pressure aka BAP here is about 1psi less (around 94kpa) than near sea level at my old location (where BAP was typically 101kpa). Perhaps the difference in elevation I'm seeing here is a relatively small change is not enough to see a big difference. I can tell you that dynoing a car here usually wants to apply a 7% correction, where near sea level it was often 0-2%. I tested one car shortly after making the move here with uncorrected numbers both here and at sea level (both on dynojet dynos), and other than a pretty big difference in the spoolup time - with faster spool near sea level - the uncorrected power numbers were nearly identical. That says something about the fueling requirements I feel given it was making the same absolute pressure (MAP) in both locations. Based on this I only show customers uncorrected numbers if they have any type of forced induction, and corrected numbers only if they are naturally aspirated. I'm not sure if the correction on a supercharged enigne works the same as with a turbo or more like a naturally aspirated engine.

There is indeed a factory map sensor (labelled turbo pressure sensor) on AN Volt 4, but it is only like a 2.15 bar or something. It's kind of hard to fit the air temp sensor on the celica before the throttle body, and after the intercooler if you're still running the OEM air to water RC intercooler. I make and sell a MAT adapter plate for 2nd generation 3SGTE engines that goes in place of the factory cold start injector under the throttle body for use with a 3/8" NPT air temp sensor (GM style) (the small feed hose to the cold start on the fuel rail can be plugged with an M8x1.0 thread bolt and crush washer). I also make a pnp adapter harness that goes to the factory EGT temp sensor if you have that two pin connector on your harness (AN Temp 3 input on ecu) or a AFM pnp harness that gives two inputs (AN Temp 2, and AN Volt 3). I assume you're also installing a wideband of some flavor?

There are plenty out there - FAST makes one, Holley makes one, etc. Have you looked on summitracing.com? I'm willing to bet there are quite a few reviews out there for them. Given the software interface of other Holley ecus, I might lean toward the new Holley sniper trans controller if I was buying today.

Wow, I've never seen the Type A relay before - that would be a huge pain if you didn't notice that and had the wrong one.

Drop me a line, I do remote tuning on a regular basis. [email protected]

INJ8, IGN4, IGN5, IGN6 would all work, but the XSL1 connector with INJ8 has more options to wire in additional sensors (like a fuel pressure sensor).

Which Beams engine would be helpful for sure.

I assume you still have the VAST igniter system installed? It may be wise to get rid of that and go to a somewhat newer igniter off of something from the 90s. The VAST system intercepts the crank trigger signal before it goes to the ecu so could be causing some problems. Any 5SFE igniter from 91-95 with distributor should work great (have used these a bit in the past). Only 3 wires are really needed - 12v, IGT signal from ecu, and Output to coil negative. The case of these igniters need to be grounded to the chassis as that is the source for the coil - ground. With the VAST out of the way, you can directly connect the triggers to the ecu wiring. How did you wire your Monsoon in to the 4AGE harness? All the injectors are wired together in the OEM wiring diagrams (basically all one big bank fire), but ideally you would rewire each one individually to the Link. Hope maybe some of this information helps.

Yeah the HD version of Megalog viewer. I bought it so long ago I forgot about that.

Update: swapping to a different G4x ecu solved this issue. I still have the first one on the shelf and need to test/verify I can repeat this problem in another car before contacting tech support to send it in.

Running excessively retarded timing (i.e. down in the single digits) often times will generate way more heat. Heat is the enemy. I'd schedule some time on a dyno and get your timing curve dialed in as soon as possible. For 12psi BKR6E would be like OEM turbo spec plugs - but with your additional compression I would probably go to BKR7E plugs.

I would guess that given Link's warranty is a "Limited Lifetime Warranty", theres verbiage to cover this type of thing - perhaps the "not properly installed or properly used" statement could be interpreted as "without modification by end user". Also putting rims and tires on a car (these are arguably wear items) is not in the same vein as applying sufficient temperature to a circuit board to flow solder in my mind. One could touch the wrong pin with a soldering iron, overheat a component, drops their soldering iron on the control board, solder in a non ESD safe environment, etc. etc. There are lots of way that could introduce damage to the board inadvertently as a part of the modificaiton process that are wholely outside of Link's control and would not, I feel, be fair to expect Link to repair at no cost.

Keep in mind - if you do modify the board or solder to pins - Link will still repair an issue with the ecu assuming it's unrelated to the soldering you have done - but it will no longer be a "free" repair. Most times it's a $150 charge minimum.

I can make you an adapter harness if you need it for this swap. Feel free to email me at [email protected].

Most likely an arming threshold issue. Can you upload a copy of your tune and a PC log of it while cranking as well as a cranking trigger scope?

I usually set limit at 3psi (~20kpa) over max target value myself.

Here's a link to the actual manual: https://linkecu.com/documentation/canlambda.pdf Pages 9 and 10 have wiring diagrams. Fused and switched 12v, Ground, CAN H and CAN L are the 4 pins on the CAN Lambda.

AEM also makes a can analog input module and CAN EGT module that work with Link.

You would have to export to excel as a comma delimited format and use excel to create more advanced math equations or use something like Megalogviewer to do them. Does the MoTeC software allow importing comma delimited files?

In case anyone needs M7x1.0 bolts - Toyota uses them on camshaft caps on the 3SGTE, lol.

Was the ecu purchased new from a Link dealer? It looks like a G4+ bottom board with a G4x top board on it...