koracing

If you have fuel and have spark, then checking the timing would be the next logical step I would think - I have no idea how that would be done on a rotary. It's possible that the tune was just VERY far off with whatever leak you had, but one would think it would show some signs of trying to start.

Double check cams didn't skip a tooth? Had a car just towed in that was running/driving - parked and then did not want to start. Had spark and had fuel and had proper triggers and rpm. Quick visual once the car showed up in person showed the cams were both off 8 teeth from correct versus crank TDC. I hypothesized that the customer's sloped driveway was the cause and it possibly rolled backward in a forward gear which is very probable to skip the timing belt if the engine is rotated backward. Nevermind lol I'm an idiot - Rotary engine right? No timing belt...

or a knock sensor input...

PC logging would require the PC to be alive and not asleep or more than likely you would lose any data once it goes into it's sleep mode and then wakes back up. If you're logging with the internal logger on the ECU then sleeping on the laptop would be irrelevant.

@Adamw could probably help you with this information.

The white wire needs to connect to an ECU Aux output (ground output) and that output should be set as "e-throttle relay". No other relay or anything should need to be connected as this would be an internal enable (via internal treansistor most likely) on the E-throttle module. Also note that the Aux outputs for signal 1 and 2 can only be either ECU Aux 1 and 2 as a pair, or Aux 3 and 4 as a pair per the settings in the software. I think I brain farted when I was asking about 8 wires. I had a used one of the newer units last August someone had sent me that they had cut off the 8 pin DTM and I was reterminating it with a new DTM connector and after your post I realized there was only 7 wires. Not sure how I messed that up, but it got resolved.

The pump should also be running while cranking as well so that should not be an issue, or at least not much of an issue.

Best thing to do to determine if you're too rich, or too lean, or not enough idle position is to try cranking in this situation with a few percent throttle opening and see if a small amount of throttle position improves starting. If that makes no difference, try very large throttle inputs and see if that makes any difference. If that does nothing, try spraying a bit of carb cleaner or starting fluid into the throttle body before cranking (just a couple spurts) and see if that improves anything. Knowing how these things affect how it starts cold will help guide what you need to do. Once the car is warmed up is there any issues starting, or restarting? What if you let it sit for 30 minutes then try a hot restart?

Emailed GaugeArt and they confirmed that if you use the "Link 500k" setting when programming the gauge it will convert it to 500k on the iphone app. Using the plain "Link" option setting will be 1Mbps.

Would this be CAN Mode: User Defined -> Bit Rate: 500kbps; Data: Mode: Receive User Stream X-> CAN ID 2022 --> Format Normal?

That would depend on if the gauge is using the ethanol scale. The instructions show it can display Lambda, or 14.7 gasoline scale, or O2 %. I assume he is on gasoline scale, so it would indicate it being extra rich. https://documents.aemelectronics.com/techlibrary_30-0334-x-series-obdii-wideband-uego-controller-gauge.pdf It looks like it does output to a few options of hex address on the can bus - so there may be the ability to read it over CAN to the Link if a custom user stream was set up. Default output address is: 6 (default) 0x7E6 (for 11 bits) 0x18DA28F1 (for 29 bit) with the default being 11 bits output and 500kbps output. @Adamw Is this possible to recieve under a custom user stream?

Your ecu firmware is pretty old - it may be a good idea to try updating the firmware and trying again. I'm not sure when they added the "Transmit Link AIM MXS Strada Dash" option where previously you would have just selected "Transmit Generic Dash", but that could be tied to the firmware. On the ecu side, the help menu says to use 20Hz, but I'm not sure that matters as much. The rest of the ecu setup looks ok to me. Your dash config file looks ok to me. Do you get any errors on the F12 status runtime CAN tab while connected to the dash with key on?

In your tune you attached you have the CAN 1 set to "transmit user stream 1". It should be set to "Recieve User Stream 1". In the stream in Frame 1 you have the ID position as 1, and it should be set to "None". Alternatively - just delete the frame, and then select "load stream" at the top, and select AEM X-series UEGO. This is all per the instructions in the link help menu.

Digging up an old thread - has this been updated yet for apple phone users?

Per manufacturer datasheet: Vout = VS*(0.0012858*P+0.04) ± Error -> Thus (Vout-(VS*.04))/(VS*.0012858)=P. For an output of 0.5v: (0.5v-(5v*.04))/(5v*.0012858) --> (0.5-.2)/(.006429) --> 0.3/.006429=46.7kPa and for 4.5v is (4.3)/.006429=668.8kPa - unless my math is wrong. Is there some additional built in error correction done by Link to get to a nominal value of 52 and 676?

I'm sure you meant for that to read 676kPa at 4.5V, not 3.5V.

Attach a copy of your tune and your dash configuration file and I'm sure someone will be able to help you with it.

Map tube suckers are a nuisance. Were you able to successfully recalibrate the map sensor? Usually it has to be within 5kpa of BAP for the map calibration tool to work.

Running a richer AFR target will also aid in reducing cylinder and exhaust temps. Typically on pump gas, I target around 12.7 AFR (gasoline scale) or .86 Lambda at 0psi (101kpa MAP) and by 10psi (170kpa MAP) I normally target around between 11.5 AFR or about .78 lambda. EGT I don't like to see over 850-860°C. I may be a bit more conservative on my targets than most, but I would rather give up some power in exchange for longevity. You can pull and inspect your spark plugs also to see if it has evidence of running extra hot. Just FYI aluminum melts at 1300°F, and it's the intake air and fuel that cools the pistons during the combustion cycle (as well as oil splashed on the back/bottom side).

It's never too early to have a good lambda device. The tuner can use it as well which may save time and cost while tuning.

If the data is available at various differential pressures to actually populate a 3D deadtime table, then yes. More often than not, however, injector data is provided with testing at only a single pressure value (usually 300kpa or 43.5psi differential pressure) so a single row 2D table is all that one would use in that situation. In an ideal situation, your differential pressure on a boosted engine will always stay at one value, and in reality stays pretty close to that one differential pressure value, but does deviate somewhat under normal operation.

I will admit I don't have a lot of RB26 experience, but this table looks a LOT leaner than I would typically tune anything on boost on pump fuel. Can you elaborate your reasons for this target table (i.e. 14.7 AFR gasoline at 7.5psi of boost)? Is there something special with the ITBs and boost that would make one decide to use leaner values for some reason? This seems very hot to me as well...

*LEGEND* Best comment ever! I often say something similar when people ask why "I'm making tuning so complicated" by wanting to know all the information about their injectors, engine, and fuel.

Just for future reference here, one should always use differential fuel pressure on one axis for this table, not just fuel pressure, as the injector only sees the differential pressure.

If you only have the Cam sensor in the distributor then yes, you would need to run that input to the Trig 1 input. How many teeth does the distributor wheel have? Any missing teeth?