koracing

Looking at your log I can only tell you have no lambda set up, and your map sensor isn't plumbed properly as it never changes even with RPM going to 2000+ at one point. When you say now you can't get the engine to turn over - are you saying the starter is no longer spinning the motor (turning it over) or just that it spins but won't fire up? You also say you don't have e-throttle, but you're getting signals in that log for APS main and sub, and TPS main and sub. Pics of your setup, throttle pedal, throttle bodies, etc. may help.

Post a copy of your currnet tune also.

On CAN bus you can wire multiple sensors if you daisy chain or y-split the signals. You could use two CAN SS Harnesses but Link does make a can splitter cable that might work better/cleaner running one leg to each lambda. What problems are you having with the AEM widebands? Are they not CAN based (x-series) widebands? In the CAN settings window you will need to reassign the ID for one of the lambda before plugging both in I believe as they default to position 1. You will also need to add a 120 ohm terminating resistor to one of the legs of the bus (the longer one if one leg is longer).

Would still like a user option to to apply LTT table to the base fuel table and then clear the LTT table.

I recommend the AEM X-Series 30-0310 inline wideband controller with CAN connectivity or the Link CAN Lambda wideband systems.

No, the link base maps are intended to get the car running only which has been accomplished here. Beyond that it will require tuning with a wideband. Some base maps are better than others, but none should be treated as "load it and drive the car" type of maps in my experience.

I'd sell the Storm and upgrade to an Xtreme given the choice.

What wideband are you using? You aren't going to be able to tune with mixture map and autotune with a 0-1v narrow band o2. Lambda 1 in this most recent tune is set to AN Volt 2, but there is no calibration on it. In the previous log you posted the voltage on AN Volt 2 varies between .235 Volts and .682 Volts so that is not a wideband signal , or at the very least highly unlikely to be a wideband 0-5V signal (possibly a simulated narrow band output signal?). Do you have a gauge on your wideband? What is it displaying?

Normally increasing base throttle position or adding idle air bypass via a bypass screw if equipped will help prevent stalling. Dashpot settings are also there to help with this. It appears your idle base position is set to zero also which isn't helping. So most likely your at the point that it just needs tuning. You also have no lambda data so that might also help in the effort to tune the car.

Got online with @CodySoFine last night and got it to idle fairly stable. His IACV seems to bypass a bit more in the fully closed position than excpected, but ultimately turning on the closed loop idle, changing the base position table down quite a bit, and then enabling idle ignition control was able to get the idle pretty stable and the AFR to act pretty stable around idle.

What is your BAP reading at the same time in the ecu (barometric absolute pressure)? I think some of the labelling in the gauge could be better because if you're seeing a negative MAP value then something is definitely wrong. Only MGP should show negative values. MGP is BAP-MAP.

Yup that's definitely not a G4+. Looks like you can't receive Lambda over CAN based on what @Adamw posted.

I suppose the difference in trigger could be explained by the different trigger disc you're running versus the OEM 360 tooth oem CAS. Timing looks correct as far as I can tell unless the crank pulley is somehow off (running a long screwdriver down the #1 plug hole would sort of verify it appears to reach peak height at the same time as the TDC mark). If it's running pretty well or as good as it can at the trigger settings you have, then it may just be a tuning issue. Hard to say over the internet, but I would try some big swings on your ignition timing and fueling in the ecu to see if it's happier one way or the other to see if the tune is just way out to lunch. It's sometimes possible that you're so rich that you get misfire which would register lean on a wideband and could be causing false AFR readings as well. Engines will run on a pretty wide range of AFR so for testing purposes you can get pretty far out before the engine won't run any more. I am assuming tech support had you go through and click test all injectors and coils already. If you need help doing this remotely, I would be available most evenings for a brief session to try somethings. (Pacific standard time zone)

You would be better off posting this in the G4+ area.

Are you sure it's a G4 and not a G4+ from 2014?

I don't think you can make gauge serial output data work as an input on the CAN bus to read o2 sensor data or oil pressure data - maybe @Adamw can confirm?

Yeah your offset doesn't match other SR20 engines I've tuned (formerly on power FC as well). Something seems off. The last one I tuned was an offset angle of -83. The X-Series should be sending data to the Link over Analog signal (white wire) and ground reference (brown wire) both connected to the ECU, or via the CAN (green black stripe and white black stripe) wires to a CAN channel. It should not be using the blue RS232 serial ouptput to the ecu. How are you verifying timing now? Are you using a plug wire from the end of the coil to the spark plug and putting your timing light inductive clamp on that plug wire, or are you putting the timing light inductive clamp on the coil trigger wires?

DI stands for Digital Input. An input has no way to control an output and is only looking at what comes in. Yes you would have to wire an Aux output to control a relay for the fuel pump.

What Vaughn Said. The PC log can log at a maximum of 40Hz, but will happliy log at lower frequency if your connection is slowed by having too much stuff up on your screen. I also use a minimalist tab in my layout for PC logging on dyno to maintain at least 40Hz connection speed while logging.

Yes you should be able to trigger the ground side of a standard relay (Pin 85) and use that to power the pump in standard mode.

The Fuel pump triggering on the MX5 is done via the air flow meter if memory serves - so usually the relay requires some wiring modification to give ecu control. I would try firing with the air flow meter in place or place a mechanical gauge on your fuel system to check pressure while trying to run to see if it is maintaining pressure or not when trying to run. Also attaching the actual files like a datalog or trigger scope and your current tune (not just screen shot images) would be much more useful, just FYI.

If the analog output has a ground output as well, then reading it in via anaolog (or via your analog to can device) should work ok. If your analog output doesn't have a ground output as well, then calibration can change over time which is less than ideal.

The only real rule as far as I know regarding quantity with CAN is that anything on a particular bus needs to operate at the same baud rate, and all the AEM stuff is going to use 500kbps, and the Link can bus in the software only has up to 10 configurable channels for streams in or out. It looks like both of your other devices you list for Bus 1 are also capable of operating at 500k. Of course you'll also need to make sure you have a 120ohm terminating resistor at the end of the bus but both of your devices appear to have a built in terminating resistor that you can toggle on/off (only use 1). So your can expansion device 4 channel most likely would be received on 1 stream (maybe up to 4 worst case), wideband on 1 stream, CAN EGT on one stream. The wideband I would recommend using their X-Series wideband and placing that on using CAN 1 as well to avoid analog offset/drift issues. I'm not sure what your Volvo pup and water pump can bus speeds are going to need to be, but they would also have to be the same (and could also be on bus 1 if they were operating at 500k). Otherwise I think what you have proposed should work. The math there for sorting out the CAN byte addresses for the 4 channel modle is a bit confusing for me, but I'm sure someone here could help once you get to that point.

An engine will require more air when cold than when warm to reach your desired idle speed. Without an idle valve or without setting the throttle such that it idles at target when cold, it's usually going to require throttle input when cold to get it up to the idle speed you want. The trade off of having no idle control valve is you can either have it idle on target when cold, and then possibly have too high of an idle speed when warm, or you have desired idle speed when warm, but too low of an idle speed when cold. The first scenario can sometimes be corrected by significantly reducing ignition advance at idle when warm (or by using ignition idle control with a lower ignition idle limit possibly into the negative region).

If all you're wiring up is just the wideband it will work fine without a terminating resistor on the bus, but more than one device on the bus a terminating resistor is obligatory. On the StormX you'll need the wire-in pins for the CAN connections, or the CANSS expansion harness - CAN H is on B Loom connector pin 27, and CAN L is B Loom Connector Pin 28. https://linkecu.com/documentation/StormXQuickstartGuideG4X.pdf https://dealers.linkecu.com/ADA_4