cruz177

I have already managed to solve this, I attach a formula (image) to calculate the necessary resistor, in my case I have used 1W 80ohm
Although the ohm value is measured, it is necessary to see the real voltage to make the calculation, I have adjusted it as GP Temp (Ext Pullup) in anvolt6
I have used cal table 7
Volts
%
And then 3 divisions of
100%- 0,6v
50%- 3.3v
0%- 3.9v
are made at the rate of the sender unit voltage at each site
Hope this helps someone
 

You can run them wasted spark ok.  2 seperate ECU's is not a great solution as you can only adjust one at a time when tuning and proper sequencing of limiters etc is not possible.  

That fault just indicates that the voltage on that Aux pin isn't going up or down as far as it expects it to. We have removed this functionality in the newest release (6.21) which is on the website at the moment.

Try it with the tacho connected directly to ecu first, the last E30 I done the tacho worked fine with nothing special needed.  
If it doesnt work I would suggest using a proper tacho booster instead of the relay coil trick.  The relay trick will sometimes work, sometimes not.  The proper devices have a transistor inside so the ecu cant clamp the flyback.  These ones are cheap and work:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/142171581596

Then you have 8 injector drives.  Wire one injector to each drive as per Vaughans original comment.  If you set the ECU to multipoint group it will fire odd cylinders then even cylinders twice per cycle.  This will give you the opportunity to upgrade to sequential with just a setting change if you ever add a cam sensor in the future.   

Any combination of ignition mode and Fuel mode can be used, you just need to make sure the ignition outputs are wired correctly for the ignition mode and the fuel outputs are wired correctly for the fuel mode.
If you only have a crank trigger with no cam sync then Sequential injection wouldn't be recommended as approximately half the times you start the car the injection timing will be 360 degrees out. In this case I would recommend using Multi-point group injection. @Adamw might be able to recommend the best way to wire multipoint group injection for a 6 cylinder but I suspect it will be wiring 3 injectors together to either one or 2 injection drives each group depending on current draw requirements.

coils should be:
Ign1: 1-6
Ign2: 2-5
Ign3: 3-4
If you have 6 injector drives then wire each injector drive to the cylinder of the same number:
Inj1: Cyl 1
Inj2: Cyl 2
Inj3: Cyl 3
Inj4: Cyl 4
Inj5: Cyl 5
Inj6: Cyl 6

Retard variables are always expressed as negative values
So try -6

Yeah looks good.  I would use falling edge on trig 1 and rising on trig 2 in this case.  With most hall sensors the fall time is faster so the falling edge is more accurate, since all timing comes from trig 1 it is preferable to have that as falling.  Cam edge doesnt really matter, but if in trigger 1 settings you are using sync tooth 1 the cam rising edge is preferable in this case since its further away from sync tooth 1.  
Trigger offset will likely be somewhere around -90 or +270
 
 

Yes, you will need to do it with a relay.  You can use a single DPDT relay if you can find one, or two SPDT relays.

No, as I already stated above, the stock 116 tooth flywheel trigger can only work with the second "TDC" sensor (also on the flywheel).  It cannot work with a seperate cam sensor.  There is too much backlash between the cam and the crank for a cam sensor to be used to identify TDC when there are 116 teeth on the crank.  
If the crank has no missing teeth then about 36teeth is the max you can have with seperate cam sensor (even that only allows 5 deg of cam "slop" before it would fail).  This is why higher tooth count wheels generally have missing teeth for the TDC identification instead of relying on the cam.

I would recommend the Bosch Motorsport injectors from this page ending in number 116:
https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Data Sheet_67797771_Injection_Valve_EV_14.pdf
They are high impedance and have significantly better resolution for tuning than the old school evo injectors.  I'm running the VAG coils too which you can see in my pic above.  I suggest increasing fuel pressure as well as the factory 3.0bar is a little low for a performance motor. 
As a race only motor I'm running 65psi fuel pressure and it worked well with those injectors.  My motor has 12.5:1 compression and motorsport cams so it's a little different than the average street setup.

The flywheel turns twice for 1 revolution of the cam.  So when the flywheel "TDC" tooth passes the sensor there is no way for the ECU to know whether it is TDC on the compression stroke or TDC on the exhaust stroke.
For direct spark and/or sequential injection you need to know which stroke your are on which typically means a cam sensor. 
The other option would be to change to a more conventional missing tooth crank wheel and use "MAP sync" instead of having to add a cam sensor as well (G4X can use a MAP sensor connected to 1 intake runner to detect the intake stroke). 
 

Which model ecu are you wiring in? 

Typically you will wire the positive of a inductor/reluctor 2 wire sensor to the signal input and the negative to a ground to a signal ground or sensor ground. 
Also it may be more approriate to ask questions about G4X ecu wiring in the G4X section, not the G4+ section, though your question would apply in either ecu case.

I've got the pinout below for the cam sensor, you will probably find the crank is the same. 
"Out" connects to the ecu trigger 1/2 pin.
"Gnd" connects to the ground wire.
"S" connects to the shield.
 

You will have to experiment to see what gives you the required result with minimal bangs, every engine is different .

The fuel trim is generally used along with the retard value to tune the level of boost you can reach while on the launch limiter.  More retard and more fuel means more heat energy in the exhaust which means higher boost.  
The main thing you need to be careful of with hydraulic lifters - especially with stock valve springs is large and regular bangs in the exhaust. Each bang can lift the valve a little and the lifter fills to take up that extra lash.  With each bang the lifter pumps up a little more - until eventually you get to the point that either the valve no longer seals closed enough for combustion to occur, or a rocker jumps off, or a valve hits a piston, or sometimes all 3!   
There are often no obvious signs of the lifter pump - except sometimes a misfire that recovers slowly after the limiter has finished, so it is often experience with a specific engine that will identify it.  

I have already managed to solve this, I attach a formula (image) to calculate the necessary resistor, in my case I have used 1W 80ohm
Although the ohm value is measured, it is necessary to see the real voltage to make the calculation, I have adjusted it as GP Temp (Ext Pullup) in anvolt6
I have used cal table 7
Volts
%
And then 3 divisions of
100%- 0,6v
50%- 3.3v
0%- 3.9v
are made at the rate of the sender unit voltage at each site
Hope this helps someone
 

Thanks I have found a reading fault with a ground, since the oem installation of the car uses an analog ground that is not reading correctly link for the fuel tank I will be fixing it and I will test, I will share the fuel level adjustment table if it works. Thanks

If it is always reading 5V then there is a wiring problem and it isnt going to work until you fix that..  You should see a variable voltage when it is working correctly.  
You can use cal table 7/8/9/10.  The voltage is not usually linear with fuel level due to the shape of the fuel tank, so it is best to calibrate it by starting with an empty tank and adding known volume increments - say 20L at a time and note down voltage for each volume.  Then use those numbers to make your cal table.  

Yes 200ohm 5V pull-up would be suitable.  Setup cal table like below:

Forget about the CanID you really need to think about Frame ID instead.
Your frame ID takes up one of the bytes in the message. 
So in this example below, it is Frame number 13 . 

When this can frame is received by your teensy, you need to look a that first byte to tell you which frame it is. 

If the number is 13, then you know that your values in the frame are Inj timing, Ign Angle, and Inlet / LH target. 
So you can update those values.
 

There's lots of ways of achieving what you want and I am happy to share my approach which works well.  I stream 56 bytes (7 frames) from ECU to dash, then broadcast this data over bluetooth (if laptop is running, the data is logged).
I'm guessing you don't have other CAN devices on the same CAN bus as your dash?  In this case, the concept of priorities is not that relevant (there won't be any other CAN traffic to contend with).
In my MBED dash, I stream 7 frames all on the same CAN ID of 1300 (arbitrary ID).  These byes are streamed 'end to end' (as observed on oscilloscope), leaving a lot of time after the last frame to do my processing.
All that's required is to write your arduino firmware to recognise the stream.
My dash also broadcasts the data wirelessly to my laptop, giving error free datalogging (I chose to stream this at 10 Hz).
You are welcome to look at my CAN setup:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pjCW7otZjlRO3j8JqtsJj-2yhvleHtnw

Dont use frame ID's for now, this will make what I called a compound message earlier and will make your life more difficult.
 
You can choose whatever you like.  The main requirement is every message needs it's own ID and no two devices can be sending the same ID.   Lower numbers get higher priority when there is a lot of data on a busy bus but that is not going to be a factor in your case.  In OEM buses you will find safety critical devices like ABS and DSC will all be high priority ID's, like <100.

your ignition table itself looks like a good starting point
the trigger1 offset you have to find yourself with a timing light as suggested by Adam. It can be different on each engine so we cant tell you exactly what number to use. remember to press enter after typing in an offset to get it to stick.
As for your idle issue, maybe fuelling? Can you post a log of it happening please? Also disable launch control, its set to "on with DI4/clutch switch" so may be on accidentally which will pull 10deg of timing and other things unhelpful to idle.
Unlikely to be your idle problem but I suspect there is something wrong with your oil temp sensor (shows a reading of -33C when ECT & IAT are both ~20C), and you engine compartment temp gauge is reading in KPA because of its calibration, which makes no sense at all.