INSW20

I dont see anything wrong with the general ECU setup.  
Is the gauge getting power from the 4pin DTM or is it getting power from separate wires? 
If you unplug the gauge and plug the lambda into the gauge connection then go to >CAN  setup>CAN Devices>find devices, does it find the lambda?

G- is the usual toyota convention for the trigger ground - Pin 39 on that ecu.  Although either of the two grounds you have marked would do perfectly fine.  

no idea, my tuner set it up like this .i dont know the benefit of it. the ISC valve worked with the way you said to me. thanks man

I meant "idle air control valve", I'm certain we're talking about the same thing, the little air valve on the bottom of the TB.  Mine is a Gen2.  I don't have any speed inputs into the ECU currently (91 cable speedometer, no ABS, no cruise sensor yet), so my speed lockout is "off".
Maybe start by turning idle ignition control off, closed loop idle off, double check everything and start with fresh idle tuning.  And of course save your current cal as a revision if you need to revert back.  Here are my settings, not saying this is ideal, but this seems to work well for my setup.

I have my idle valve set to close over about 5% TPS on my gen2 3SGTE, for what that's worth.

I've been very happy with how my engine idles.  It's taking filtered air from the turbo inlet tube.

Loaded image of the current setup.

No, just a little bit less intuitive when you look at logs etc.  
 
Yeah I would say it is most likely a ground issue.  But whether it is the main engine grounds or ecu grounds is hard t know.  In most of the 90's JDM cars the sensor ground and power grounds arent seperated.  So if you have some higher than normal resistance on the power ground you get some current taking the easier path by flowing through sensor ground.  

For the trim position to jump from 9 to 10 the voltage on the analog input would have had to go below 1.35V.  

Made a couple of small changes.  The lambda will stay on disabled until the engine is running.
3SGTE1991MR22_19.2021-CANbus V1.1.pclr

Here's how I have mine set up:

So I have two thresholds for lean cut, one for low boost, and one for higher boost.  Both have timers to give some wiggle room for gearshifts, although I'm trying to minimize that with accel enrich.  These are only triggered over 2500rpm and when in boost.  My RPM Limit Table 2 is a flat 2500rpm, so if this activates, it automatically cuts out until conditions reset or down to 2500rpm.  I also have a fuel differential pressure limiter.

Here's how I have mine set up:

So I have two thresholds for lean cut, one for low boost, and one for higher boost.  Both have timers to give some wiggle room for gearshifts, although I'm trying to minimize that with accel enrich.  These are only triggered over 2500rpm and when in boost.  My RPM Limit Table 2 is a flat 2500rpm, so if this activates, it automatically cuts out until conditions reset or down to 2500rpm.  I also have a fuel differential pressure limiter.

Make sure you use an Aux Inj or Aux Ign output and NOT a regular aux. I just did this on my MR2 after COP upgrade. Go ahead and open up the relay and remove the switch arm so you’re left with only the coil on 85 and 86.

There are many options.  You could assign all cylinders knock control to a single knock table, you could turn off the 3D IAT trim which is only using 2D.  You could turn off fuel trim Cyl 1 which is doing nothing.  Warmup enrichment could be done as a single table with Eth on one axis.

Yes, you have a max of 30 GP tables in the G4+

Yeah I would try more D.  Generally start with a big change such as doubling the current value so you can get a feel if it is helping or not.  

Fixed it!  I'll work on smoothing out the timing table, which I think will get rid of the waviness.  Otherwise it's running well now.  Thanks to everyone for all the help!
 

Yes, it did, just thought it would be helpful to see the boost curve vs DC. =)

Swap to modeled as soon as possible. Absolutely recommend it!

When you are on your primary fuel you want the ratio table to read 0%. That way the map is scaled completely for just that fuel. 
If your pump fuel happens to have E10 in it consistently, then you will still want that ratio table to read 0 as you need your first fuel map to correspond directly with that fuel and nothing else. 
Once you go to E15 or above by adding in ethanol, then you can start blending in your secondary fuel settings / table slowly as the ethanol content increases.
Bonus points: A pump fuel that has E10 will have slightly different Fuel Density, Fuel Density Temperature Coefficient & Stoich Ratio settings compared to regular pump fuel with no ethanol. Try and find out if what each of these variables are for your given fuel if you want to try and make your modelled fuel equation as "accurate" as possible. 

Fuel pressures and other mechanical bits seem to be behaving now. 
Deadtimes & short pulse width look correct, I've used same values previously with no issue on multiple setups. 

This table should be set to 0 whilst you are setting up your pump fuel map. 
Currently, whilst you are sitting at 15%, the following variables will interpolated between your first fuel and second fuel settings depending on ratio amount. Hence why your main VE table makes no sense and are very high. 
·Stoich Ratio
·Injector Flow
·Fuel Density, Fuel Density Temp. Coeff., Fuel Charge Cooling Coeff.
·AFR/Lambda Target
 
Do yourself a favour, and do the following cause you are going about this a bit backwards. 
- Drain tank and put only pump fuel in. 
- Change fueling equation mode to "modelled" rather than "modelled- multifuel"
- Set up a proper AFR target table that isnt pig rich, and setup a charge temperature table similar to whats shown in help file to get you started. 
- Tune car fully on pump fuel, get everything dialed in and working as intended. Save file, and make copy. Turn the newly copied file into your Flex Tune file. 
- Open new file and change fueling equation mode to "modelled - multifuel"
- Now tune car using ethanol and fill out all required maps etc for flex tune. 
- Enjoy 
 

If VE is that high at idle but looks closer to normal at higher loads then I would be most suspicious of deadtimes.  A quick test is to hold it at constant RPM about say 2000RPM and adjust the target lambda by 10%, if the deadtimes are correct then the measured lambda will also change by 10%, if not then scale the whole deadtime table up or down until measured lambda follows a target change closely.

I assume you went with the Racer X rail and their bosch regulator option -- I always advise my customers against that regulator option and just stick with a proven adjustable regulator like the Aeromotive 13109.  Yeah they cost more and you have to buy fittings and lines, etc.  They *always* work. 
A lot of your adjustments and trims are a bit... different... than I'm used to seeing and I can only guess the fuel pressure being so high is a big part of it.  Your dead times didn't match the information I have exactly from Injector dynamics website, but it wasn't far enough off to make that large of a difference.  Is your engine a Gen2?  I woudl start as a safe base of about 14 degrees of timing at 14-15psi boost (100kpa boost).  If it's 3rd gen or higher I would start a couple degrees less as a base.  

You need stable and predictable differential fuel pressure.  If you know the regulator is under sized then you need to fix that, you are not going to be able to get a a good tune when the fuel pressure is so poorly controlled.
 
 Injector flow is correctly modelled using Bernoulli's equation.  Flow change is roughly proportional to the sqaure root of the pressure change.  
 
Injector timing isnt really relevant at this stage, but just FYI, at idle and cruise with normal injectors close to the valves, the ideal EOI will usually be around 360-400BTDC.  You want the fuel to sit on the back of the hot intake valve for as long as possible to be best vapor in the port.

Yeah scopes look ok.