JMP

are you pressing enter after typing the trigger offset before closing the box? If you type the number and click into the ignition delay box or even click the "done" button it wont stick. You have to type the number, press enter, then click the done button and do an ECU store (CTRL-S) before it will stick. The offset number box will turn blue after you press enter, then it's ready for you to click done and do a store

to test boost solenoids, I just set the output to PWM test and listen for it clicking. Depending on how you have the solenoid plumbed, if you leave the boost control table set to zero, it will run wastegate spring pressure for boost

you can follow the instructions on AIM's site for Link ECU's here: https://www.aimsports.com/download/ecu/racing/LinkG4+Series_100_eng.pdf

personally I'd run a storm as a minimum

that's a standalone display that has it's own sensors, it doesn't interface with an ECU

K's are stored on the cluster, if they're not showing there's likely a fuse blown. ECU is not needed for the heater to function

the runx only needs the factory ecu to run the water temperature guage in the dash. The speedo is independent of the ECU and the tacho can be driven directly by the link. Climate control is easiest to make work with a piggyback setup. You'll find the attached wiring diagrams are likely very close to what you have if the car is cable throttle corollaewdsupdr112w50.pdf corollaewdsupdr112w51.pdf corollaewdsupdr112w52.pdf

That's Godzilla Motorsport, yes they're a dealer. http://www.godzillamotorsport.com/

you're meant to wire the ignition ign1-cyl1, ign2-cyl2, ign3-cyl3, ign4-cyl4 and then set the firing order in pclink under ignition setup

you want the ECU to be reading the same voltage your injectors and ignition system are receiving. In older toyota's like that I've found tarnished/hot relay and fuse contacts can cause a voltage drop, along with corroded ground points from battery to chassis and engine to chassis etc. Trace the circuits back one by one through their junction points in the chassis and you'll slowly identify the source of the drop

I'd be reviewing the charge temp table for sure

probably not useful for you but as an indication I've got the following : 290cc 1zzfe injectors have a deadtime of 0.608msec at 14V 349cc 2zzge injectors have a deadtime of 0.93msec at 14V But as posted above, you can start with around 1msec at 14V and then vary the system voltage adjusting the deadtimes at each breakpoint to maintain consistent AFR. I've got a big DC power supply that I connect in place of the alternator when doing that part of the calibration

are you working in Modeled fuel mode? If so, have you done much with the charge temp table

yes, wire them like that, then the firing order is set in pclink

using the same crank sprocket and cam wheels? If not you'll likely have to check the triggers as Adam mentioned

if you dealer input 02529 into the portal when generating the unlock code, it will spit out the wrong code. Get your dealer to generate a new code using just 2529

I'd be double checking the base timing with a light to confirm it's physically running the timing you're commanding in the ECU

I'd start by flattening out the ignition map from 1500rpm and below to a much lower value so the engine doesn't make as much torque, try somewhere between 10-15deg as a test. While working through what ignition works best I'd also target something like 0.9 lambda

confirm that your fuel pump remains running and fuel pressure is good. If you dont have the fuel trigger to the circuit opening relay connected/configured correctly the car will run for a few seconds on the initial burst of fuel the circuit opening relay provides before it shuts the pump off due to no trigger to the FC pin. When fuel pressure is confirmed, adjust the "Master Fuel" figure in "Fuel Main" configuration up until the engine stays running and your wideband reads a sensible number.

I dont believe Adam is a Link Staff member

I'd 2nd the bearing clearance question

yeah, I got one thrown in with an AIM MXS as part of a package deal... would never spend that sort of cash on one You've got more than 8 signals to input? An alternative is to use spare inputs on your ECU and then use those as triggers for the event on the dash

wire them to the analogue inputs and them configure the dash as required. There are add-on CAN IO expanders you can use if you happen to run out of inputs on the dash: https://store7103007.ecwid.com/#!/Wiring-Input-Module/p/95858450/category=13870061

you should contact the realdash developer to get it addressed, you can find the datastream layout in the link help file under "Technical Terms and Reference > Communications" where it states DI1 through DI6 speed streams are transmitted in KPH. Gear position is also sent in the stream so it's up to the developer to get it sorted, not Link Support

Can still tap into the expansion loom the smartycam's on to get the feed I ended up buying a whole bunch of the connectors AIM use from RS Online so I could make my own cables instead of needing to purchase their expansion hub