Simon

The Di has an internal pull up so if you want to have a switch to ground just turn the internal pullup on. This internal pullup is too strong for use with the flex fuel sensor which is why an external one is required. A toggle switch would be best for logging as then you will know when its on.

Hi Onki I know of them. They buy through another distributor. However the ECU is not a G2 it is very much a G1

What you have is not a G2 it is a G1 ECU. It is currently fitted with antilag firmware, this firmware is only able to be adjusted using a tuning module. The tuning module has been discontinued for at least 5 years and is now only available through the like of Ebay or trade me. To connect to PC you would need to have the ECU upgraded, this will remove antilag but allow the use of a serial link to connect to PC. For pricing you will need to contact the local dealer or our sales team direct. [email protected]

Hi Adam Only option for the 5 bar is through wiring it external. (The Vipec has 4 bar standard) The wide band would need an external controller and then the input can be on either pin 69 or 70.

Supra will be a low level tacho. The Ignition drives can also be used for aux functions.

Yes the ECU can be downgraded if you wish. However you would be much better to learn the G4 program.

Yes that is the device, If you have USB as an option then its a ComLink you have but it will work the same. For pricing you should contact the local dealer.

Most likely timing is out and you are firing on the exhaust stroke. You can either adjust the offset timing or swap the cam trigger on to the other cam.

This will have an effect, each device should have its own sensor.

It will depend on if the main relay requires a ground or a 12V feed to turn on. If it needs 12 volts then this can be looped off the key supply to then turn on. If it needs a ground then it will need a relay to provide a ground when the key is on.

You have lost me there. The negative side of the sensor needs to be connected to one of the sensor ground outs on the ECU. http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/technical-drawings/C02

Anti lag varies so much from application to application and driver to driver. The cyclic idle is not needed if you have a switched air bypass, it was there to allow GPN applications where the throttle is never able to be closed fully.

The extra loom length should not be an issue, We have done boats and other applications with 5M looms. Pin A7 should not be grounded at any point it is grounded through the ECU, For a shield to act best as a shield it should only be grounded at one end. 1.25mm will be fine for the coils I would power the LC1 from the same supply as the ignition or injectors. The main relay is best controlled from the ECU as it will allow hold power to be set up if you have a stepper. It is critical this is wired correctly as back feeding is a common issue. ECU knows the engine is cranking when it sees an RPM signal from the CAS

Check the map sensor is reading correctly. It should read 100kpa at key on engine not running and go lower once the engine is running or even cranking. If it was idling clean it should be around 30-40kpa.

- side is tied to the sensor ground in our loom. The same for the shield ground non G4 wire in units On the Storm and Xtreme units the shield should attach to pin 7 on the A plug

Yes bigger the number the more fuel. You will need to have smaller numbers in the step position table at cold temps and getting bigger as the car warms up. This is due to the position being steps from fully open.

Check the voltage on the Di and see what that is doing. The ECU needs to see the signal go high (normally 12V) and Low (less than 0.5V) If the signal is not pulling fully to ground less than 0.5 volts it might require a pull down resistor to be fitted.

Yes externally things have been slower of late in terms of firmware being released. However internally things are moving along faster than they have ever been. Firmware is only one part of the ECU business. The firmware is still and will always continue in development along with other areas. There have been a number of new plugins and a v88 spec topboard released this year just gone, This included applications for Snowmobiles and Jetskis requiring some heavy development. Time lines of when and what is being developed will always be kept close and will only be announced when we are totally happy and release is guaranteed.

Assuming the wire colours have not changed over time, Green - Ground Red - 5 Volts Grey - DI5 Brown - NC White - AN volt 5 Blue - AN volt 6 Yellow - Temp 2 Orange - Temp 3

Sounds like the base idle position is too high. (base step position) This will cause the idle to sit too high on throttle close, the ECU will then lock out the idle control as the RPM is above the rpm lock out.

Going off the G4 info the AIM will be very unlikely to work as the baud rate is too high for the G1 ECU's

Yes it can you will need a serial link connected also.

Currently there is no solution for windows 8 available. We do have it working in house and are currently in the final stages of testing. I would expect a release in a few weeks. This will be for the G4 range. However the USB drivers will be able to be used with the old G3 software you will likely have to do a double install of G4 software first and then the G3 software.

Base maps are contained in the PCLink download. They will be in a folder called basemaps. The Subaru V5 and V6 base maps are the same.

Assuming what you have is a LinkPlus with an adapter board to VR4 (an adapter has a short loom that converts the linkplus to a factory header) If this is the case there is no adapter available to suit the RVR so you could either wire the unit in or convert the car to a VR4 loom.