Simon

Next step will be to check for a ground at pin 97 when the key is on. If there is a ground at pin 97 but no 12V at pin 120 the issue is likely the main relay or wiring to from this.

It will be the one after the reference. But to confirm you can set the ECU to direct spark so the coil only fires once in a cycle to then check with the timing light.

I would also suggest increasing the dead band to 20-50rpm and the RPM lockout to around 500

It could be a sign the sensor is faulting and giving a 5V signal or the wiring has shorted to 5V at some point in the loom. Giving the loom a good visual would be the starting point.

You can start with the following the timing will need to be checked and set.

Looking at the log it looks like the idle control was locked out due to wanting a speed input. However the MAP suggest this has been turned off. Check this is actually the case when live with the ECU. However the throttle is sitting at 1.1% open and the RPM is still high this would indicate either the throttle is not calibrated correctly and is actually open more than it thinks, or there is an air leak elsewhere. The VVT is operating and reporting the correct positions. Are you looking at the status in the runtimes window? (F12)

I don't actually know the cut off points but on a 60-2 trigger on level 4 filter you would be lucky to get to 7000rpm.Generally you want level 1 filtering when ever possible . Only increasing if trying to combat trigger errors

My caution would be that using a trigger selection that is not matched correctly might not be an issue now but could be down the track should we change how the decoding is done. For example to allow faster syncing. I would much rather have the trigger match what we are expecting particularly when chasing triggering issues.

Functions tend to be added as we find the need on plugin units. Only reason for them missing is that they are yet to be required on a plugin.

Firmware will need to be current as there were issues a while back around the Lambda average. Next step would be to put a copy of the map up or email it with a log and we can take a look.

Yes that is correct assuming you are not using the Dual channel mode available in Stoich Mode

Would need to check the lambda average reading, The lambda target table will also need to be set up to suit.

Do you by chance have more than one copy of PC link open at the same time both looking at the same map?

Our Multi tooth missing trigger pattern expects a single tooth on either the cam or crank. If there are two teeth it will try to reset the firing sequence at both teeth. You must only have a single tooth sync for that trigger mode to work. The Ford Duratec VTC is expecting 5 teeth on the cam not 2 so I would not expect it to be happy either.

with a 36-1 crank the cam trigger will 100% need the second tooth removed. It does not mater which one is removed but it is best to use the tooth that is furthest away from the gap on the crank as it is not good to have a sync and the gap happening at the same time. Regards Simon

The VE map is the main fuel table when you are in modeled fuel mode. Knock control will need to be turned on and tuned. I would suggest having a read through the help file in PC link as this will cover the set up of knock

Fuel mode would need to be set to modeled mode. In traditional mode the injector scaling is done with the master fuel number.

The Dual DBW forces you to the Thunder.

B1369 Is a +14V in So the pin for temp connection is B136-19

There is no electrical way to control 2 E throttles with the Xtreme. I would say cable converted is the likely answer.

Hi Dean As close to the engine as possible and avoiding heat soak as best you can is the goal. Pin wise you need a ground on one side of the sensor and the other side can go to a temp pin on the ECU. On the main header this is pin B136 pin 19 (Temp 3) Or you can connect via a XS loom to the ECU.

The wideband sensors will require and external controller to provide a suitable signal to the ECU. We do a CAN Lambda unit for this or you can also use the like of a LC2 or equivalent with a 0-5V out put which can be feed to the same pins as the narrow band were. I would suggest MAP based tuning for almost all applications where there is a good MAP signal we are not really geared to MAF tunes. Regards Simon

If you go to the runtimes (F12) and then to the CAN tab are you seeing errors for can in here? Also you have the correct CAN port connected on the ECU as later units have both CAN1 and 2 connections available.

Starter Control Starter Control provides ECU managed operation of the Starter Motor. There are two requirements for starter control to function: · A Digital Input Function must be setup as Start Position. This could be a conventional key activated ignition switch or a push button. and · An Auxiliary Output Function must be setup as Starter Solenoid. This output should be connected to starter solenoid relay. Starter Control Settings Start Switch Mode Selects the mode of starter control. Options available are: · OFF - No starter motor control by the ECU. · Test - Use for testing input/output functionality only. When Start Status is active the ECU will activate the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output. No other conditions are checked, this could potentially lead to starter damage, engine damage or personal injury if operated at the incorrect time. · Normal - Behaves the same way a typical vehicle starting system. The key is turned and the engine will crank until the key is released. However it offers the added protection of preventing the starter being engaged at a high engine speed and the option to disable starting if the vehicle is not in Park/Neutral or is immobilised. When the conditions specified for Deactivation RPM, Anti-theft Lockout and Neutral/Park Lockout are met AND Start Status is active the ECU will activate the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output. The auxiliary output will stay active until the Start Status turns off OR the the Deactivation RPM is reached. · Start/Stop - Allows the use of a single button for both starting and stopping the engine. When the engine is stalled, pressing the button will crank the motor over. Once the motor is running, pressing the button again will stall the engine. This mode is suitable for a single start/stop button on the handle bar of a motorbike or jet ski. When the conditions specified for Deactivation RPM, Anti-theft Lockout and Neutral/Park Lockout are met AND Start Status is active the ECU will activate the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output. The auxiliary output will stay active until the Start Status turns off OR the Deactivation RPM is reached. Once the engine is running, if the engine speed is above the Deactivation RPM AND the Start Status becomes active the ECU will apply a 100% Fuel and Ignition cut to the engine. · Touch Start - Allows a starter motor button (or key) that can be momentarily pressed to start the engine. The driver taps the button and the ECU will take care of starting the engine. Typical applications for Touch Start mode would be remote starting or a jet boat. When the conditions specified for Deactivation RPM, Anti-theft Lockout and Neutral/Park Lockout are met AND Start Status is momentarily active the ECU will activate the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output until the Max Crank Time is met or the Deactivation RPM is reached. As of firmware version 5.5.6, pressing the start button again while the engine is running will stop the engine. Starter Deactivation RPM Specifies the engine speed (RPM) above which the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output turns OFF. Use Anti-theft Lockout An option to make the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output conditional upon Anti-theft status. If set to Yes and Anti Theft Status is Active the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output will not function. Use Neutral/Park Lockout An option to make the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output conditional upon Neutral/Park status. If set to Yes and Neutral/Park Status is OFF the Starter Solenoid Auxiliary Output will not function. Max Crank Time Used only on Touch Start Start Switch Mode, this is the maximum amount of time the starter will be allowed to crank if the engine does not start. Starter control Examples Example 1: Normal Mode with Anti-theft Assume Starter Control is set up as: Start Switch Mode = Normal Starter Deactivation RPM = 600 RPM Use Anti-theft Lockout = Yes Use Neutral/Park Lockout = No With the above settings the ECUs Starter Control would activate the starter motor if: · Engine speed is less than 600, and · The anti-theft signal is off and · The driver presses the start button (or turns the key). Example 2: Start / Stop Mode with Neutral / Park Lockout Assume Starter Control is set up as: Start Switch Mode = Start / Stop Starter Deactivation RPM = 550 RPM Use Anti-theft Lockout = No Use Neutral/Park Lockout = Yes With the above settings the ECUs Starter Control would activate the starter motor if: · Engine speed is less than 550, and · The Park/Neutral signal is active and · The driver presses the start/stop button. With the above settings the ECU would apply a 100% cut to both fuel and ignition if: · Engine speed is greater than 550, and · The driver presses the start/stop button. Note: The fuel and ignition cut will remain until engine speed is zero RPM.

If both wires are connected to the single drive then it will likely just be to switch two relays / devices at the same time