Simon

It is a G1 LEM (looks like a late model one so could be V5) you will need a serial link to allow PC tuning. We still sell the serial link units. Any dealer will be able to help get you one.

Each individual drive will do (in saturated mode) 5amps continuous. For what you are looking at doing will be fine and can be set up as sequential stages for the fuel mode.

It hasn't picked up the driver correctly. If you right click on the device and uninstall it, Disconnect and then reconnect the USB and the drivers should be searched for and assigned. The PC might need to be shut down and restarted to complete the process.

First step will be to check in windows device manager to see if you have the ECU showing and if the drivers have installed correctly.

To do what you are looking for would require a custom trigger mode to be hard coded. Which currently we are not in a position to be able to offer the engineering time to implement and are also reluctant to do for non factory trigger modes. I think the best option would be to use the 60 tooth crank wheel and replace the CAS disk with a single cut out replacing the 6. Regards Simon

The PossumLinks are dedicated Subaru units and are not able to be used on alternative applications.

On the stock set up I think they close the valve. We do not so you will have a boost leak if it is not plumbed to the intake between the throttle and turbo. This way when on boost the pressure across the valve will be equal.

The IAC will remain at the base position for all times other than when throttle is closed and it is controlling the idle. The IAC should really be plumbed back into the intake between the turbo and throttle butterfly. For some reason Toyota did not do this factory.

Yep

Can you flick up a copy of the map to match that log.

You will be fine to use just the CAM sensor 24 and a single sync pulse was standard on a number of Toyotas for years. Its no different to 12 on crank and 1 on cam. Only note would be that with only a cam trigger any movement between the crank and the cam (gear/belt/chain lash) will cause timing movement.

Check the timing on a HT lead between the coil and the plug on number 1 cylinder. Using the timing loop always seems to give issues. I would expect the timing offset to need to be around -82 for a factory CAS in stock position.

If you set up turbo speed to replace the RPM axis on the target table you could then trim the target based on the turbo RPM. The catch with this is that it has to be turbo speed (RPM) the table will not accept a frequency input direct.

Quick start attached. Lightning Quick Start Guide b&w G4 Link.pdf

Looking at the raw frequency would at least allow you to monitor it and then calculate out the RPM figure

What is the current boost control set up? Open loop, closed loop current axis set up? One option might be to use the turbo speed to replace the engine RPM axis

From the ECU there are no cuts / limits being applied. Which means its not holding things back due to limits. And given its ok on another system that points to a tune issue it could be so rich its starting to misfire.

Looking at the ECU log there are no limits being applied (no ignition or fuel cuts) at all. I would say there is a issue on the boost control side of things I would be checking all hoses manifold etc looking for any potential air leaks.

The increase in injector size will be causing it to be rich running. You will need to adjust injector data and the fuelling to compensate for the new injectors. If you post you map from the ECU we can advise the settings that will need to be corrected.

I would check the terminal connection at the header plug to the ECU. Also check the grounds to the ECU are 100% including chassis and block grounds on the car.

This would think is a fail safe of the unit so that if the wire was disconnected it would run full speed. Our drive is geared to pull the signal low and the Duty cycle refers to the % time it is held low.

Can you take a trigger capture with the ECU and post this will let us check arming voltages and a copy of your map so we can check the trigger settings to match.

Falling is correct for 95% of applications and should be the case for this one. Ford and Honda used to use rising spark edge on their igniters. Generally if you have this incorrect the coil and or igniter will let the smoke out.

Those loges were at cranking speed?

That now sounds like base timing if you have fuel and spark then making sure the spark is at the correct time will be next.