Simon

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Could be that they don't have the ignition drives available to do direct spark so firing the coils in pairs halves the number of ignition drives required.

With 1000s in there I would say a master back at 8-10ms as a better starting point.

Could you post the full map and a short PC log with it running.

That would have timed up with a holiday for me so I likely missed it and cleaned it out on return.

Set the error low to 0 and the high to 5. Be sure to clear the code and event log in vts.

That will be fine as your PC is a powered USB and the ECU is connected to that for tuning.

That was a work around and really only masks another issue. As if the triggers are correct and behaving as expected trigger errors should not occur. And if they do there is an underlying issue. In this case the polarity of the sensors seems to change with RPM this will cause the timing of the set edge to move relative to the crank when the sensor flips polarity. To our knowledge this is not normal for Subaru sensors. I would suggest trying the sensor from the opposite bank (swap LH sensor in to RH sensor position on the engine)

I would start by reading the manual. PC link help contains a massive amount of info on wiring and all other functions. Attached is also a PDF of the wiring info You might also want to consider getting a professional to do the install as it is something that is very critical in getting a result from the ECU. Link G4+ Wiring and Installation Manual_ENG.pdf

Trial and error to confirm the timing in one it will give no sign of running in the other it should get close to firing or actually run if the fuelling is good. The 200RPM and No trigger errors is a very good sign that it should be close to being able to fire up.

You need to connect the output of the AEM gauge to the ECU via a free AN volt input or via the CAN bus. If using the 0-5V output of the gauge this could be connected to the original narrow band O2 input (Pin 56 on ECU plug) if you wish or any other volt input for example one on a XS loom. If using CAN then you need to connect CAN L and H from the gauge to the CAN connector on the ECU (A CANPCB cable and CANF plug needed) For both the ECU will then need to be configured to suit.

Yep sure will.

With coil on plug there is only going to be one offset that will allow the engine to run. If you are 360 out it will be firing on the exhaust stroke. On the K20 coils make sure you have set the spark edge as falling (not rising as would be used for a distributed Honda) Also check that all the cylinders are firing at the correct time. Do you have any trigger errors while cranking? Is the RPM reading correct?

Yep all you will need to do is have the V88 powered up and then open the G4 map and it will load in.

Gap is the 2 teeth that are removed resulting in a wheel with 58 teeth and 2 missing. The tooth after the gap should go past the sensor at 60deg before TDC #1 The Dip switches are then used to fine tune the base timing

The hum is normal you can adjust the E throttle frequency to see if this can be reduced, It is typical for it to run warm. What you are seeing in the runtimes is normal.

Switch 1 moves 1 tooth 2 is 2 teeth 3 is 4 teeth 4 is 8 teeth The total is the sum of all switches turned on. Generally theses boards were expecting a gap at about 60deg before TDC #1

Sequential is not really worth the worry as the ECU reverts to group fire above idle. I would just do a reload and then check timing. (switches on subboard adjust timing. The more on the more retard.) Then adjust master to get a suitable level of fuel at idle and then tune from there.

Flick us an email [email protected] it will depend on the sensor range you want to go for.

Circled them in red in the top left corner as picture is viewed.

Its a function in the ECU. On the Digital input there is a calibration figure. Adjusting this allows for different wheel sizes. A Digital Input may be connected to an electronic wheel speed or vehicle speed sensor (typically located near the output of the gearbox, or as an output from the vehicle dash board) to enable speed to be calculated. These Digital Inputs can then be used to configure the Driven and Non-Driven Speed Sources. The Calibration number allows the ECU to calculate speed in km/h. Note: In some cases erratic speed signals can occur due to unusual speed signal shapes. Changing from Rising Edge to Falling Edge or vice versa may help with this problem. This problem usually presents as random spikes of increased speed. Set-up Procedure: The Calibration number is the number of pulses received over a 100 m distance. Method 1: Drive the vehicle at a known speed and adjust the calibration number until the Vehicle Speed Runtime Value displays correct. Method 2: Wheel Speed Sensors Only. Calibration Number = (Number of Sensor Teeth / Wheel Diameter) * 31.83. Note that wheel diameter is in meters (m). Typical values for speed calibration numbers range from about 170 to 280. The maximum frequency the digital input can accept is 500 Hz. Note: Wheel Speeds can be checked in the Runtime Values Digital Inputs tab

Preference would be for us to do it but it is something that a someone with suitable tools can also do with out to much trouble.

If you are changing tire size you would be better to rescale the digital input calibration so then the ECU is reading the correct speed and just passing it through.

They are 2R2 1watt resistors generally when these are burnt out it indicates another issue, the most common is the unit has been over voltage. Generally there will be other damage that as caused the excessive current draw.

That there is a G1 Linkplus to suit a 60-2 trigger wheel reluctor on a 4 cylinder application. The manual can be found http://forums.linkecu.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=2537 I also suspect that is not a functional unit as there are two resistors missing on the main power supply input so would be very surprised if it functions at all.