Simon

We would need to see the MAP so we can have a run on the bench and confirm.

If you are seeing a trig 1 error it could be from with trigger input. ECU could be seeing a RPM spike and turning on a limit which then takes time to deactivate (settings dependent) If you can take a trigger scope at around 4000RPM it might give some clues.

When you turn the key off what voltage is the ECU seeing? It does sound very much like a back feed.

Try putting a temporary ground on to pin 16, This is the control pin for the ECCS relay and when at ground the relay should stay on. Then make sure the voltage at pins 49 and 59 stay at battery voltage at all times. Also check you have power to the CAS during crank should match battery voltage

Best bet will be to download the software and have a read of the help section on logging both PC and ECU logging this will give you what the system is capable.

HI Tom The CANSER lead was intended for serial coms. It would pay to check that you have CAN L and H wires connected right through from the dash to the correct pins at the ECU. As the CANSER has the serial wires connected you will loos you PC coms while the dash is connected. If using CAN it is best to use the CANF connector and wire the CAN wires direct from the dash can lead.

Can you put up a copy of the map and a log while cranking. Do you get spark when doing an ignition test?

Have put onto the wish list.

Try disconnecting the battery or fully unplugging the ECU and then reconnect and try to talk to it. You can also try a firmware update as this will run via a separate program and might allow connection and upgrade.

On the V1-2 the cam timing will be critical

Current help file PDF attached Link Help_File_ENG.pdf

The low voltage could be playing a part as the stock CAS does not like voltages below 8volts. It could also be play developing in the CAS drive and this is causing movement and extra trigger events. On RBs its very common to have this.

That would be a suitable set up. Could also do 12 or 24 teeth plenty of options for on the crank. Cam set up would be mint in either option.

If you only have older firmware versions in the list you do not have the current PC link. PC link version should be 5.6.5 5.1 is very old firmware.

An LED test light on the input to the igniter will be handy when the ECU is turning on the coil the light should be on (voltage supplied to igniter) and then off for coil not charging. To test igniter if you put 5~12V on the input (disconnected from ECU) then release and you should get a spark. Only hold the voltage on for a very short time as too long and damage to the coil and or igniter can occur.

Looks to be a very early G1, Hard to say for sure as the Micro sticker is missing. But given age of PCB is likely to be closest to D42V3 for wiring and set up info. http://forums.linkecu.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=2550

Also a trigger scope capture would show a lot, I'm assuming it has the 36-2 crank trigger?

HI Thanks for the email. Looking at the trigger scope you have the crank position signal inverted you will need to swap the signal and ground wires at the sensor. I would also suggest lowering the filter level on to level 1 on the trigger 1 setting.

You can post to the forum or email [email protected]

Our notes indicate that it should be suitable but is not a application we have actually had confirmed. In other cases/applications Haldex has been confirmed to function as per factory.

You can use a AN volt in put to be one axis on the slip table so that as the dial changes the voltage to the ECU the slip allowed changes.

One test to see if there is any signal on the Di is to set it to a GP frequency input and see if it shows any frequency.

We have limited space from our forum host so the space for files is limited. The likes of drop box or google drive are good options to share bigger files.

If you use the GTS base file this will get you to the same point as pre restore.