Simon

I would be looking at the run times to see if there are any hardware block errors. Did you happen to save a copy of the file as it was while it didn't run? The AN volt issue I would start by checking the error values are correct after the map reload.

Send an email to [email protected] and we can get you sorted. Or alternatively you can roll back the firmware to 5.6.5 using the 5.6.5 pclink. (firmware can be changed with our PC link not needing to connect)

It is geared to drive high impedance injectors directly, for low impedance then a ballast is needed. A low impedance is around 3ohms and high impedance is around 12-13ohms. Stock non GTR injectors should be high impedance.

I suspect as you mentioned that B136 pin 19 is the Stock IAT. Will soon know if you turn the function to IAT and see if you get a reading, If no connection the input will go to 5Volts and throw an error.

OK she is an old one as it is pre PC tuning so will have to have a hand control to tune it. It is fixed for 3 channels of ignition, So tacho will be on the Aux drive if available at all. I can not find any info on the firmware as it looks to be a one off special to give 3 bar map scaling.

There would be a couple of things to watch. Make sure the throttle is calibrated correctly so that it is not driving against the end stops. Have the max opening at 98% so its not driving hard to hold 100% Reduce the min and max DC clamps on the throttle control.

What do you have for a cam trigger? If there is no cam trigger then in you trig 2 settings make sure the sync mode is set as none. I'm assuming the ECU has been unlocked also?

What coils are you using? And if they are not smart coils do you have an external igniter fitted? Stock CA coils will need an igniter external.

Two parts to check. Make sure the AC request is operating (Di) You can check the output drive by using the test on mode and see if the clutch engages.

Assuming that the ECU is on V4 or V5 firmware then when you set the unit up as 6 cylinder and wasted spark it will force Ig3 to be ignition and then the Aux channel will have the option of Shift or Tacho. Internally the ECU then needs the dip switch configured to suit or on older units there is a resistor and wire link that need to be set correctly. (we can check this if you take a photo of the ECU with sub-board removed)

Yep they likely will and be sure to respan the TPS

Just enough to let the motor sit at a low idle with no load on it. It will be a case of trial and error.

Do you have a speed lock out set up for the idle speed control? You also want to have the main butterfly open enough that the engine will idle at a lowish RPM even when the ISC is 100% closed. But a min clamp could also help too as it will limit the amount the valve can close

A typical situation would be that if the min clamp is to low, the ECU will be reducing the idle by lowering the DC. It will work fine down to say 30% but as you drop below 30% the valve starts to open again getting more open as you reduce the DC which causes the idle to increase and the ECU pulls even more. If the solenoid is full closed at 0% DC then there is no issue with a 0 clamp its only in cases where the valve starts to open at lower DC.

If the CAN lambda is the only device on the bus make sure you have a terminating resister fitted at the unit. Also make sure the unit has a nice clean power supply as they do play up if the supply is overly noisy

It would normally be the DC that causes the valve to be fully closed.

You have tried the offset at 118?

Can you go to the Help menu and about and check the PC link version and also the ECU firmware version.

Hi Richard, This would be normal to me as you are not using the Idle control mode that the status is linked to it is expecting there to be an output for ISC solenoid of stepper.

You only get kpa or psi as an option

2 teeth in crank would match a 4 tooth on cam. So assuming your dizzy has 4 teeth currently then 2 on crank is correct. You will want the tooth crossing the sensor at between 0-10 degrees BTC this will set your base timing (timing motor will crank at) If you can design in some adjustment would be ideal.

Any controller with a 0-5V output would be compatible with the G4 provided you have a free AN volt channel.

That would be the best way as it avoids using up the AN volt inputs. (which would still need an amplifier)

Yep those are totally fine to use with the G4+ Storm.

Unfortunately I don't have a pinout for the idle solenoid or TPS but these will match factory, TPS will have 5V ground and signal , The solenoid will be 12V, ground and signal from ECU. In the ECU settings you will need to turn off the stepper setting on Aux 5,6,7 and 8 then one will be assigned as ISC solenoid (the one you have wired the solenoid back to)