Simon

Di10 is on pin 46 and on the late E throttle boards is not on the main XS connectors. (note the XS connectors are labled on the PCB for function) Aux 4 is on the 2nd XS connector but this can not be used if you are going to use E throttle.

You can but will have to run a ballast you will not gain any peak and hold settings as the hardware is not suitable to support it on the G3s.

Is it a G3 with adapter loom? LEM or Link Plus?

With the ECU serial we can put you in touch with the original dealer they will then be able to process the unlock provided the unit is legit and not stolen.

Check the error voltages on AN volt 9 sometimes these will be incorrect and cause fault conditions. Low 0.00 and high 5.0 for testing will do the trick.

PC Link only works on devices running Windows. You could use a 3rd party app and OBD2 to monitor some parameters.

Only if the MAC is running windows it is not compatible with IOS

We would need a full log of what is happening around idle to see what is going on with the full map. I think you might be expecting a bit much if it is on "big" cams and you are aiming to do the idle control on the throttle only. With no dead band any drift in TP sensor or even wear on the throttle is going to throw it out. Was the haltech on the same application?

The status will not change the check for the inputs will be to look in the runtimes on the VVT tab and see if they are registering You can also do the cam test function and see if they are giving suitable positions. Im not sure of the correct cal for that sensor you can try some of the predefined ones in a trial and error fashion and you might get one that is correct. Failing that if you take resistance measurements at known temp points you can do a custom cal. One side of sensor should be to sensor ground and the other to a AN temp input. Make sure the fault values are correct for the temp channel, Error low 0.05 (close to zero) and error high 4.95 (close to 5V)

Can you take a PC log of all parameters and attach so we can see what is happening during cranking.

On the 350Z the wheel speeds come in over CAN from the ABS module. Should be no wiring required.

What you can do is use a relay to switch the ground side of the main relay. So have pin 45 (12v key) supply 12V to the relay coil to turn it on. The relay then switches ground to pin 16 to activate the main relay. Once main relay turns on it will feed the ECU via pins 49 and 59 (all pins are the 300Z stock ECU pin numbers)

You will have to have some dead band 0.1% should not cause any great issue as it is such a small change in opening. Are you using any other forms of idle control?

Im not sure of the question?

If you have an EVO 8 with the later 3 plug ECU then the correct ECU is our EVO 9 plugin

No the V series units did not have the OBD option it only arrived with the introduction of the I series units.

Your trig 2 input is the incorrect polarity. You will need to swap the 2 wires over so we get the inverted signal of what you currently have. The trigger scope only looks at the trig 1 and 2 inputs it is not able to display the digital inputs.

Check the error voltages are set correctly on that input. If they are not configured it can show as that error. Error low should be 0.05V Error high 4.95V

I'm 99% sure they are a smart coil so should be fine. The check is to measure the resistance between the signal pin and the 12V supply. If its low (around 1 ohm) then it needs an igniter. If its high (k-m ohms) then no igniter required.

Generally this would be a switch to ground or 12V and on to a Di at the ECU. Configuration will depend on if switching 12V or a ground.

A common trap is the need for external igniters on BMW coils. The lack of igniter can cause spark on test but then none during cranking as its not enough energy to fire when under compression..

Both are Reluctor sensors.

For the Oil metering simply turn of the AUX outputs that are assigned to it (Aux 5-8) The O2 sensor will give a voltage around 0.8V when operating. Wideband is miles ahead and give much more accurate information.

The best option for checking the timing is to use a short HT lead to put between the coil and the plug. There are also some more high end timing lights that will trigger on the ECU to coil signal but a shot HT lead is more than enough.

Have a read of the V4 manual as a start, But the good news is that one is actually PC tunable if you get a Serial Link and then use V2.5 PCLink