Simon

The plugin base map packaged with the PC link download would be a perfect starting point for that.

We will need to identify the generation of ECU as a first step. As there is different software for the different generations. A photo of the unit with lid off would be the best bet to identify it.

Would be keen to confirm PC link version and the ECU firmware

We can deal with either option. If switching to ground then the Di will need the pullup turned on, If switching 12V then pullup will need to be turned off on the Di.

Moving the distributor will effect the rotor offset and you could end up with the rotor not pointing at a HT tower when its trying to fire.

We have it on the wish list but it is going to be one of the lower priority items.

The switch could be wired to a Di and then that will activate a AUX out to switch the solenoid. Should work well.

If the unit runs full scale then the way to avoid this is to set you error low value to 0. This will stop the ECU fault code.

Hi, No that is new. It might indicate the corruption is happening during the download. Do you have any PC link connection issues where it might drop the connection?

No changes have been made.

Sensor wise the IATB is the pick its the fastest responding and tends to be more reliable. But its at the cost of being harder to mount. I have seen them in the end tank and working well.

The main board has it all there but it's just not wired to the outside world. You can attach directly to the pins but will void the warranty. Or we can do it for you to retain the warranty.

No trigger errors in those two so that looks promising. Now try with the ignition on and firing sparks.

Multi point group injection mode.

As Greg mentions are you sure your 12V is actually switched. As for the solenoid to power up it has to have that 12V there.

Unfortunately not. They are only suitable as a temp channel.

What coils are you running and do they require an external igniter? Sync mode on cam level is not suitable as the way it works is it looks for the cam signal to be high or low (hall/optical sensor only) when a gap on the trig 1 is occurring. Put simply it is not an option for the trigger set up you have. We have to stop the trigger errors before anything else as if its not happy here every thing will be upset and no way to get stable timing.

If you are still running the wasted spark set up do you have resistive plugs fitted?

Head on over to https://www.linkecu.com/contact/ecu-service-requests/

You are going to need some external hardware to handle that type of current.

Yep that is a back feed. The ECU will provide a ground when not powered up so switch on and ECU of the relay will energize.

We can do a bottom board swap to convert it over to a EVO 8/9 setup. Only catch with this is we would have to get the ECU back to NZ to do the swap and reconfigure

Lift the lid on the ECU and look for the green LED this should light at key on if not it most likely not getting power.

To see if the ECU is powering up check for the LED on the board turning on. Is it a plugin or a wirein? What application?

Could just be a low voltage supply issue to the ECU or the main fuse to the ECU is blown.. Check the power supply and grounds to the ECU and see what you have there.